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#1 Richard in Ontario

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Posted 10 January 2011 - 04:47 PM

I want to repair and make my own crossbow bolt/arrows. Now I do not have a lot of cash so i have to be able to do this the most economical way possible. So what do I need?
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#2 See4miles

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Posted 10 January 2011 - 10:26 PM

None of the items and tools you need are real expensive by themselves, but there is actually a lot of little things and a couple bigger (in terms of cost) items that you will need.

FLETCHING ARROWS
1. A vane/feather jig.  You can spend anywhere from about 40.00 up to a couple hundred, depending on what you want to do.  A good prospect is the Arizona EZ Fletcher.  They run about 40.00, are easy to use, are fast, and durable.  They are available in several configurations for helix and offset as well as carbon and aluminum arrow versions.

They make arrow scrapers, and the costs vary, but they are only a few bucks.  I have a couple but always end-up using a razor blade.  So that can be done cheap.  I also use a scotch brite pad to prep my carbons.  Works great and its cheap as well.

Obviously you need an adhesive.  Lots of us are using the super glues these days.  Bohning products are all high quality and reasonably priced.

INSERTS
Back in the days of aluminum only, you could get a pipe-cutter that plumbers use to cut aluminums.  They are still good for that and run about 25.00.  Carbons? Well, you need a cut-off saw to do it right.  The ends need to be cut clean.  PERIOD!  As with everything, there are several versions available with varying prices.  Get the best one you can afford.  Expect to spend 80-125.00 at least. (You may find a used one for sale if you look around.)

Use Hot-melt for your inserts. You don't need a gun, just the hot melt sticks themselves. use a candle to heat them and roll them until you get a nice wet end and apply as even as possible to the insert.  Don't use too much and try to rotate the insert while you install it and after it reaches full depth to spread the glue evenly for maintaining good balance.  I put a field point on mine and use a vice grip so I have control to be able to rotate it.

Shop around for the big ticket items and I think you may be able to get a lot of this stuff right here on the Nation's store.

If you buy vanes in bigger quantitys, you'll save money too.

Make sure the area to be fletched is prepped and clean. Lots of ways to do that and all are pretty cheap.

Oh ya, you'll need a tool box to keep all this stuff in.  Hopefully you have something around the house or in the garage to keep it all gathered together once you get going.

Good luck.  Have fun.  I love fletching arrows and working on them.  Its a good time to inspect your equipment and head off potential problems.
In the Wind......

#3 Richard in Ontario

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Posted 11 January 2011 - 11:19 AM

Thanks for the information See4miles. I figure I'll have to spend a few dollars on some quality items and thats OK. Just don't wan't to over spend on things.
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#4 See4miles

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Posted 11 January 2011 - 12:39 PM

Absolutely not, and me either.  Once you get rolling, you'll spend next to nothing.  Vanes & glue, inserts, thats about it.  the rest of the stuff is nickel & dime items.  

Have fun, thats what its all about!
In the Wind......

#5 Gary in Ohio

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Posted 11 January 2011 - 03:29 PM

I agree with everything said, except you don't need to buy an arrow saw. With a crossbow, typically you'll use a 20" or 22" arrow and shafts are usually sold in those two lengths. With a compound you can order shafts cut to length for a dollar or two more.

Be sure to clean the vanes before installing them. On some vanes there is a release agent, basically it's a thin oil that keeps them from getting stuck in the mold.  This can interfere with gluing.

I just got one of the AZ Easy Fletch tools. I've only used it for a half dozen arrows so far but I like it a lot more than the Jo-Jan I've had since the 80's. It's trickier to use because you're putting three vanes on at once, but it's quicker to fletch the whole arrow.

The AZ Easy Fletch is listed as being for aluminum and carbon. The only difference is the diameter of the arrow they accept. Carbon arrows are for compounds are typically smaller in diameter.  Get the one labeled for aluminum because crossbow arrows (whether carbon or aluminum) are typically 22/64.

Edited by Gary in Ohio, 11 January 2011 - 03:32 PM.


#6 Richard in Ontario

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Posted 11 January 2011 - 04:56 PM

Ok on that Gary. I'll be ordering the main items shortly. Now if we could only make our own broad heads.
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#7 See4miles

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Posted 11 January 2011 - 09:49 PM

Yes, Absolutely, Gary is right.  

I'd still get the saw when you can.  I'm always snatching up old arrows from friends, finding them in the woods and such.  Get a few at garage sales, stuff like that.  You'll want to be able to deal with them when they need to be cut to length. I keep them around even if they aren't my size or weight.  I make sets for friends in need whenever i can.

In the meanwhile, you sure can order to length.
In the Wind......

#8 Lrodshy

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 06:57 PM

This is a very good question, althoug I 'do' happen to have all the money I would need to got heavy into production! I still want a complete list of minimum items and equipment to make everything, bows wood and metal, bolts, points strings, cables?,  etc
I can think of a small list ;
table saw, jig or band saw, lengths of angle iron to glue staves, "c"clamps for said purpose, wood rasps Spokeshave for tillering wood limbs, fiber glas strips it laminatingand  ????????????
tnx for adding anything else????????
Have a driend who has little, out of town!


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#9 Lightfoot

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Posted 07 February 2012 - 04:32 PM

View PostLrodshy, on 06 February 2012 - 06:57 PM, said:

This is a very good question, althoug I 'do' happen to have all the money I would need to got heavy into production! I still want a complete list of minimum items and equipment to make everything, bows wood and metal, bolts, points strings, cables?,  etc
I can think of a small list ;
table saw, jig or band saw, lengths of angle iron to glue staves, "c"clamps for said purpose, wood rasps Spokeshave for tillering wood limbs, fiber glas strips it laminatingand  ????????????
tnx for adding anything else????????
Have a driend who has little, out of town!


Lrodshy

If you want to make your own bow(s) join the : http://thearbalistgu...-the-world#3466

Lots of builders from around the world ready to help!

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#10 Lightfoot

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Posted 07 February 2012 - 04:35 PM

View PostRichard in Ontario, on 10 January 2011 - 04:47 PM, said:

I want to repair and make my own crossbow bolt/arrows. Now I do not have a lot of cash so i have to be able to do this the most economical way possible. So what do I need?

I've got a  pile of 20 - 22" arrows that need re-fletched. Fix em up for me and you can keep half of them, and I'll pay postage. Thats as cheap as you can get arrows LOL.  I live in Hamilton ON, so not a big deal. PM me when your ready for them if you want.
Middleton DTM355 limb powered
Custom Scorpyd Telson 175 (460+fps)
Custom Bowtech SZ 410
Custom 450fps TAC15 coming soon
Custom Middleton DTM 425 coming soon

#11 Zrt1200

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Posted 07 February 2012 - 08:09 PM

Did any one mention a arrow squaring tool so your inserts and nocks are square?? G5 makes them as well as the FAST. Check out the Bohning tower jig as well. There are a few videos of that on You tube as well as the G5 & Fast squaring tool.

bohning video starts around 50 seconds)

(squaring tool)
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#12 BD1

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Posted 07 February 2012 - 09:09 PM

Lightfoot what is the Custom Bowtech SZ 410 in your signature???

Thanks Bill
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#13 msmith

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Posted 07 February 2012 - 09:20 PM

You can get by without a saw for carbon shafts. What I did was take two blocks of wood about 2 inches cubed. I drilled a hole the size of my shafts all the way through one and a half inch into the other. The one that I only drilled a half inch gets clamped to my bench. I then lightly clamp my dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to the bench the correct distance for my shaft length. I put the shaft through the hole of the one block of wood and into the one that is clamped. Then I turn on the dremel tool and swing the shaft into the cutoff wheel while turning it with my fingers. Keep the dremel on slow speed so it will cut and not burn. Works good and is a cheap way to get by until you can get the real deal...or not.

#14 Lightfoot

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Posted 07 February 2012 - 11:51 PM

View PostBD1, on 07 February 2012 - 09:09 PM, said:

Lightfoot what is the Custom Bowtech SZ 410 in your signature???

Thanks Bill

Started off as a stock sz 380, and had some custom limbs made for one of a kind speed bow. Turned out the bow did not like higher power limbs. The first set coughed up 427fps and the second set 409. Unfortunately I think the 427fps limbs were too much for the bow damaging riser and then a lever in the trigger broke. I decided the bow was too dangerous and put it away for now since I have a few other toys to play with. If i want faster speeds, I will have to work with same pull weight is what I figure. The bow seems to be holding up under the stock black limbs so far this year. Hope that helps.
Middleton DTM355 limb powered
Custom Scorpyd Telson 175 (460+fps)
Custom Bowtech SZ 410
Custom 450fps TAC15 coming soon
Custom Middleton DTM 425 coming soon