Have a question for your Horton factory Representative. Feel free to ask it here.
#421
Posted 25 June 2011 - 03:22 PM
#422
Posted 25 June 2011 - 10:52 PM
tracker1, on 25 June 2011 - 03:22 PM, said:
I always set mine, so they are just a hair off the string. That has given me the best results on both crossbows, and verticals.
Matt
#423
Posted 09 July 2011 - 01:18 PM
A sticker-type label is affixed on both sides of the rail’s back end. It says in large print, “HUNTER” followed by the Horton trademark, under this in smaller print is, “Horton Manufacturing Company Inc”.
At the front-right side of the aluminum rail is another sticker-type label. The top of the label reads, ”Made in USA” and below, in larger print, is the following (serial?) number, “43362”.
I guess Horton’s online instruction manual labeled “operations_manual_pre_2000” would be the correct manual for this Hunter?
Dad might have purchased this x-bow about the mid ‘80’s, but I’m not sure. He target practiced and hunted with this x-bow, but never gave it heavy use. It has spent most of its time inside its soft carrying case. I would say the cables, pulleys and strings are all the originals. Given their presumed age, should they be replaced?
Which Hunter model applies to my x-bow on Horton’s online "2010 String and Cable Chart"?
Also, there were several aluminum Horton Easton Lightening Strike 2, flat nock, crossbow arrows with the x-bow. But, due to age, the vanes have split and fallen apart, and need re-fletched. Otherwise the arrows are fine.
The arrows have several bullet-style practice points, four and six-bladed broad heads. I understand that a fixed, three-bladed broadhead would be more desirable.
I have read that using too light an arrow assembly will eventually damage the crossbow arms. What replacement arrow, broadhead, vanes, nock and total weight would be recommended for this Horton Hunter?
Sorry for all the questions, but I want to shoot safe! Thanks for any help you can give me.
#424
Posted 11 July 2011 - 12:16 PM
BowDiddly, on 09 July 2011 - 01:18 PM, said:
A sticker-type label is affixed on both sides of the rail’s back end. It says in large print, “HUNTER” followed by the Horton trademark, under this in smaller print is, “Horton Manufacturing Company Inc”.
At the front-right side of the aluminum rail is another sticker-type label. The top of the label reads, ”Made in USA” and below, in larger print, is the following (serial?) number, “43362”.
I guess Horton’s online instruction manual labeled “operations_manual_pre_2000” would be the correct manual for this Hunter?
Dad might have purchased this x-bow about the mid ‘80’s, but I’m not sure. He target practiced and hunted with this x-bow, but never gave it heavy use. It has spent most of its time inside its soft carrying case. I would say the cables, pulleys and strings are all the originals. Given their presumed age, should they be replaced?
Which Hunter model applies to my x-bow on Horton’s online "2010 String and Cable Chart"?
Also, there were several aluminum Horton Easton Lightening Strike 2, flat nock, crossbow arrows with the x-bow. But, due to age, the vanes have split and fallen apart, and need re-fletched. Otherwise the arrows are fine.
The arrows have several bullet-style practice points, four and six-bladed broad heads. I understand that a fixed, three-bladed broadhead would be more desirable.
I have read that using too light an arrow assembly will eventually damage the crossbow arms. What replacement arrow, broadhead, vanes, nock and total weight would be recommended for this Horton Hunter?
Sorry for all the questions, but I want to shoot safe! Thanks for any help you can give me.
BowDiddly
I just wanted to respond to you. I am walking out the door for work, but will be able to sit down in the morning, and help with all of your questions
Matt
#425
Posted 12 July 2011 - 07:25 AM
tryinhardarcher, on 11 July 2011 - 12:16 PM, said:
I just wanted to respond to you. I am walking out the door for work, but will be able to sit down in the morning, and help with all of your questions
Matt
Hi tryinhardarcher,
Thanks for your response.
Matt, any answers you can find will be a huge help!
I'm looking forward to your next post.
Bill
#426
Posted 14 July 2011 - 11:45 AM
BowDiddly, on 09 July 2011 - 01:18 PM, said:
A sticker-type label is affixed on both sides of the rail’s back end. It says in large print, “HUNTER” followed by the Horton trademark, under this in smaller print is, “Horton Manufacturing Company Inc”.
At the front-right side of the aluminum rail is another sticker-type label. The top of the label reads, ”Made in USA” and below, in larger print, is the following (serial?) number, “43362”.
I guess Horton’s online instruction manual labeled “operations_manual_pre_2000” would be the correct manual for this Hunter?
Dad might have purchased this x-bow about the mid ‘80’s, but I’m not sure. He target practiced and hunted with this x-bow, but never gave it heavy use. It has spent most of its time inside its soft carrying case. I would say the cables, pulleys and strings are all the originals. Given their presumed age, should they be replaced?
Which Hunter model applies to my x-bow on Horton’s online "2010 String and Cable Chart"?
Also, there were several aluminum Horton Easton Lightening Strike 2, flat nock, crossbow arrows with the x-bow. But, due to age, the vanes have split and fallen apart, and need re-fletched. Otherwise the arrows are fine.
The arrows have several bullet-style practice points, four and six-bladed broad heads. I understand that a fixed, three-bladed broadhead would be more desirable.
I have read that using too light an arrow assembly will eventually damage the crossbow arms. What replacement arrow, broadhead, vanes, nock and total weight would be recommended for this Horton Hunter?
Sorry for all the questions, but I want to shoot safe! Thanks for any help you can give me.
Im sorry for the delay in getting back with you, work has been crazy this week. As far as what model you have, im not sure. Your description describes a few different models, and they are all from before I was with the company. So rather than guess im going to suggest you call the factory 1-330-474-5710 if you give them all the info you listed on the bow, they will be able to give you a definate answer. Both as to what model, and what string and cabels you need, because I would definatly say to replace them before shooting the bow. Your arrows will be fine, but change the nocks out to moon nocks and re-fletch with you favorite vanes. I would suggest either AAE Max Hunters if you want to go with short high profile, or NAP Quick Spins if you prefer a 3 or 4 inch vane. As far as broadheads go, its all personal choice. Any of them will work, most people shoot either a fixed three blade or a expandable. However if you like what you have, they are sharp and straight go with them. Just be sure to shoot what ever you decide to use before season, to be sure of where they hit. Some times you will have to adjust your sights sometimes you wont. Good luck with your dads bow, and dont hesitate to contact myself or the factory if you have any more questions.
Matt
#427
Posted 14 July 2011 - 09:25 PM
tryinhardarcher, on 14 July 2011 - 11:45 AM, said:
Im sorry for the delay in getting back with you, work has been crazy this week. As far as what model you have, im not sure. Your description describes a few different models, and they are all from before I was with the company. So rather than guess im going to suggest you call the factory 1-330-474-5710 if you give them all the info you listed on the bow, they will be able to give you a definate answer. Both as to what model, and what string and cabels you need, because I would definatly say to replace them before shooting the bow. Your arrows will be fine, but change the nocks out to moon nocks and re-fletch with you favorite vanes. I would suggest either AAE Max Hunters if you want to go with short high profile, or NAP Quick Spins if you prefer a 3 or 4 inch vane. As far as broadheads go, its all personal choice. Any of them will work, most people shoot either a fixed three blade or a expandable. However if you like what you have, they are sharp and straight go with them. Just be sure to shoot what ever you decide to use before season, to be sure of where they hit. Some times you will have to adjust your sights sometimes you wont. Good luck with your dads bow, and dont hesitate to contact myself or the factory if you have any more questions.
Matt
Tryinhardarcher,
Hey, no apologies needed about work, after all a man has to earn a living. Besides, crazy is better than the alterative (no work) - especially in this economy. I'll take your advice and contact the factory and see what they can tell me about the bow, and replacing the string & cables.
I'll also look for the vanes you have suggested. I have ten arrows that need refletching, so maybe I can try both. I'll have to watch the high profile. Roughly, the clearance between the arrow shaft and the bottom of the rail slot looks about 17/32", possibly 9/16".
I would like to switch to moon nocks. It will be interesting with the old Horton Easton LS2 arrows. Of course the head of the shaft has a threaded insert to accept a point or broadhead, but I'm not certain if the tail's the same or if the flat nock is permanently affixed. I'll check with the factory on that too, before I try ruining a shaft.
The broadheads all appear to be in fine shape. One storage case is labelled "Razorback 5" and the 5-blade section spins freely around the point's shaft. I'll try these against the unknown fixed 4-bladed heads to see what flys best. If either does well, I'll use them until the piggy bank fills up again and then try a fixed 3-blade.
Matt, you have been a great help and I really appreciate the time you took to help me out. If the factory is able to give me more details, I'll post them back in this thread. Thanks again, Bill!
#428
Posted 08 August 2011 - 09:46 AM
#429
Posted 10 August 2011 - 12:08 AM
Branchboy, on 08 August 2011 - 09:46 AM, said:
Mike
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. As to exactly what model you have I cant help you. However I will tell you that weather its a 150 or a 175 you are perfectly fine with either arrow setup you spoke of. I would try calling back ot the factory again, it sounds like the computers were just a little off the day you called. They should be able to figure out exactly what you have.
Matt
#430
Posted 10 August 2011 - 11:42 AM
#431
Posted 18 August 2011 - 07:19 PM
#432
Posted 19 August 2011 - 12:02 AM
Sirwankel, on 18 August 2011 - 07:19 PM, said:
Your best bet is to call the factory. I dont have access to the data base from my house, but they will be able to give you all the information on your bow. The number is 1-330-474-5710. The Yukon's were great bows, and with a little work this one should serve you well.
Matt
#433
Posted 23 August 2011 - 02:02 PM
#434
Posted 24 August 2011 - 12:33 AM
razorramon, on 23 August 2011 - 02:02 PM, said:
Matt
#435
Posted 24 August 2011 - 04:26 PM
When will the crank cocker start shipping?
#436
Posted 26 August 2011 - 12:19 AM
SouthernWV, on 24 August 2011 - 04:26 PM, said:
When will the crank cocker start shipping?
I have herd second hand, that they have started to ship. I will make a phone call in the morning, and try to get everyone some more exact information.
Matt
#437
Posted 19 September 2011 - 05:46 PM
Urban Legend, on 26 March 2008 - 01:31 PM, said:
you can email me at superrad67@yahoo.com for more details.
#438
Posted 21 September 2011 - 09:30 AM
#439
Posted 21 September 2011 - 09:36 PM
GrizzWolf, on 21 September 2011 - 09:30 AM, said:
I am sorry to hear you were treated that way, and I will follow up with getting it resolved. It doesnt matter weather you spent 20 dollars or 20 thousand with the company in the past, a customer is a customer and deserves the utmost respect. I would like to thank you for both your continued support over the years and for bringing this to my attention. Trust me Horton has in the past and will in the future always put their customers first. I cant change how you were treated but I wil do everything in my power to make sure it never hapens again, if that means calling Greg Ritz himself.
Matt
#440
Posted 23 September 2011 - 08:12 AM
















