9 replies to this topic

[Zrt1200]

How do you know where to glue the inserts in so the broadhead blades line up with the fletching?? Do you screw a broadhead on then eye ball the fletching when you are gluing in the inserts??

[shaftthrower]

I"ve never align Bh to fletching and never had any issues . But if you feel the need do it the way you said Bh in insert(with glue added ) align let set

[vixenmaster]

I don't align BH with fletching, I just make sure my front insert doesn't have too much run-out as it causing front end BH wobble n poor accuracy. Sometimes an inserts face isn't sq. & needs to be refaced sq.

[semperfi1970]

What your talking about is an age old archery myth. There is no need to align your broadheads to your fletching. The only purpose fletching serves is to creat drag on the back of the arrow, it doesnt realy steer the arrow like some like to believe. Mind you a broadhead can give the front of an arrow steering capability. By keeping the back end of the arrow the slow end it keeps the point end out front were it belongs. The better the bow is tuned the less drag required to stabalize the arrow hence a smaller fletch works for the most part. When you give the front of the arrow steering capability (fixed blade broadhead) you have to overcome this by countering with more drag on the aft end. There are many ways to create less or more drag with fletching size and shape as well as how the fletching is placed on the shaft. An arrow spinning in flite from a offset or helical fletch does nothing more than creat extra drag, spinning the arrow does not stabalize the arrow. Food for thought, a 75 grain 6mm bullet(.75" long) in a 1 in 12" twist barrel at 3000fps exits the barrel at 180,000 rpm's, much slower and it probably wont stabalize well. A 140 grain 6.5mm bullet out of my 6.5x284 norma leaving the 1 in 8 twist bore at 2700 fps will spin at 255,000 rpm's. The longer the bullet the more rpm's needed to stabalize it, imagine the rpm's it would take to stabalize a 22" arrow. Most arrow manufactures assume the average bow is out of tune and apply a fletch with a 2deg offset to help counter the assumption and allow the arrows to group somewhat, afterall there name is on the shaft. All the 2deg offset does is allow a shorter fletch to creat the drag of a longer fletch and keep that short fletch sex apeal most love. 2deg tends to be the magic number for no other reason as it still allows good vane/shaft contact on a wide variety of shafts in the manufacturing process when gluing.

It may just be me but stay away from any fixed blade broadhead with any sort of offset to the blades, it may just be me but what were they thinking. The worst broadhead I have seen in the past few would have to be the Crimson Talon, great marketing. If you like fixed blade's, I would go with a 2deg offset 4" vane set back on the shaft as far as clearence will allow. Vixenmaster hits on a real good point some give little thought to, shaft end squarness and insert runout. Field points this means little to nothing, fixed blade broadheads are another story. Some will argue wobble created by rotational force overcoming mass, well arrows just dont spin that fast. When you spin an arrow in your hand checking for true, well thats the fastest it will ever spin. The fletching on an arrow leaving the bow has to convert forward motion into spin. By the time the fletching takes over velocity is shedding and the arrow is slowing. What a misaligned broadhead does is give the arrow a forward surface not true to plane with the shaft giving the arrow forward steering capability. In my feeble mind I choose to give the fore end of the arrow nothing in the guidence dept and give the aft end all I can without giving up energy due to excessive drag. I dug out a real old arrow that screams excessive drag.
Sorry for the babbling but I shouldnt drink coffe this late in the day.  

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[Zrt1200]

Good points guys. I was curious if any one was lining up BH's with the vanes. It looks like NO!! As far as inserts being square goes. I found out the hard way on that one. Now I chuck them in a collet chuck in my lathe and square them up.

[vixenmaster]

I have ran into the O D being a tad to big in dia. on some companys inserts & have to cut them down to match arrow shaft dia.

[snowman485]

Use a small o ring on the threaded shaft of the broadhead to line up the head the way you want.

[Zrt1200]

snowman485, on 08 January 2012 - 11:31 AM, said:

Use a small o ring on the threaded shaft of the broadhead to line up the head the way you want.

I have herd of this but never tried it because I want to make sure the BH stays tight to the insert. I do not want to take any chance on the BH being loose at all. I also see that (Lumenoc) has a pretty good end squaring tool for a reasonable price. You can square up both ends with there device and the brass insert. This link (video does not show squaring the brass insert but I have seen it in another of there videos some where).

[Redhotscott]

Hey everyone I just bought a Barnett ghost 350 .would it be ok to shoot Parker's red hot arrows with a total weight of 425 grains be ok for the Xbox.that is the total weight with a 100 grain field point or broad head thanks.

[Zrt1200]

Redhotscott, on 03 February 2012 - 05:27 AM, said:

Hey everyone I just bought a Barnett ghost 350 .would it be ok to shoot Parker's red hot arrows with a total weight of 425 grains be ok for the Xbox.that is the total weight with a 100 grain field point or broad head thanks.

As long as it uses a moon or captured nock and minum weight requerments were met. Then yes.