19 replies to this topic

[migjunkie]

I am curious. New to the Tac 15i and found it kind of odd that I cannot put it on safety unless it has an arrow in the rest and cocked all the way. Yep, all the while I am cocking it it stays hot and I cannot put the safety on until it is locked ready to fire. I called PSE and they said that is the way it is supposed to be. I was cranking it and accidently hit the trigger and sent one flying. Fricking dangerous. Input?

[xbow755]

migjunkie said:

1327447888[/url]' post='162983']
I am curious. New to the Tac 15i and found it kind of odd that I cannot put it on safety unless it has an arrow in the rest and cocked all the way. Yep, all the while I am cocking it it stays hot and I cannot put the safety on until it is locked ready to fire. I called PSE and they said that is the way it is supposed to be. I was cranking it and accidently hit the trigger and sent one flying. Fricking dangerous. Input?

Hi migjunkie,You're far from the member to complain about this problem, if it makes you feel any better.  
After a short while, you'll develop a loading routine that should make the loading process a bit more reliable and safer, but the main objective is to never stop the cranking process until you are all the way back and the safety can be moved to the "SAFE" position. Also always make sure your hand is no where around the trigger until you are on target and ready to fire.  Most TAC owners much prefer to swap out the stock trigger with a "Timney AR15" trigger. These triggers are much lighter and have no creep at all, so proper safety and a good loading process is very important considering how much power and velocity these crossbows posses.
Regards,
Jon

[deerboy]

migjunkie, on 24 January 2012 - 06:31 PM, said:

I am curious. New to the Tac 15i and found it kind of odd that I cannot put it on safety unless it has an arrow in the rest and cocked all the way. Yep, all the while I am cocking it it stays hot and I cannot put the safety on until it is locked ready to fire. I called PSE and they said that is the way it is supposed to be. I was cranking it and accidently hit the trigger and sent one flying. Fricking dangerous. Input?

Answer: Cock the hammer and rotate the selector to "safe". You can then wind and cock the bow loaded while it is on "safe".

Details:

1) Use release knob and unwind string so you can easily VIEW the exposed hammer and hammer stop-pin. (Note: It helps if you are familiar with AR-type weapons OR you have disconnected the "upper" from the bottom...but this isn't necessary).  BE SURE you know what the hammer looks like! It's actually very easy to see... but don't blame me if you don't know what the hammer looks like :-).

2) Reach inside the upper with a finger (fat fingers are a TIGHT fit) and push the hammer back till it clicks. The hammer is now cocked. (note: that the bottom of the sled usually does this...that's where the load "snap!" sound comes from when you finish winding the bow at the very end)

3) Rotate the selector switch to "safe".

4) Use the normal loading and winding technique.

-I don't use this technique b/c I follow firearms rules:

1) have weapon pointed at something you are willing to destroy (ground or target).  
2) don't put finger in trigger until ready to fire.
3) a "safety" is your brain - b/c mechanical "safeties" fail! Use the first 2 rules son!
4) weapon mistakes are expensive   or get people injured or killed  

- my apologies for the speech. shoot safe and often. :-)

[schneep]

I just got in the habit of putting my hand in the open space infront of the trigger guard on my 15i, and as said, use proper handling.

[migjunkie]

Agreed guys on the safe weapons techniques. With the 15i it has the large opening infront of the trigger and when I was winding it I had the trigger guard confused with it since I was super new with it. It was pointed downrange, but with the tripod I shot over the target. I was like "what the he11". My fault 100% but wasn't impressed with cocking an arrow with the safety off. I will try the advice here to get the safety on before the arrow hits the rest.
Just put on the QAD dropaway. Can't wait to zero this rig.

[deerboy]

migjunkie, on 27 January 2012 - 09:25 AM, said:

Agreed guys on the safe weapons techniques. With the 15i it has the large opening infront of the trigger and when I was winding it I had the trigger guard confused with it since I was super new with it. It was pointed downrange, but with the tripod I shot over the target. I was like "what the he11". My fault 100% but wasn't impressed with cocking an arrow with the safety off. I will try the advice here to get the safety on before the arrow hits the rest.
Just put on the QAD dropaway. Can't wait to zero this rig.

how was your experience putting on the QAD? You did it yourself? How long, How complex?

[pacrossbow_]

This has nothing to do with the PSE TAC but everything to do with the design of the AR-15 trigger you decide to use.

There are triggers out there that allow you to have the safety on and allow the hammer to be cocked.  I use a JARD single stage trigger (set way lower then any Timney can go and also with zero creep) and cocking is non issue since it can be set in the safe position and then cocked.  Both their single and double stage triggers are this way.

The Timney is nice but you can't put it in safe with the hammer fallen and it is non adjustable (install is easier though since it is a straight drop in).

I can however remove the factory trigger and install a JARD, Geissele, or similar trigger without having to remove the steel pin on the TAC 15i or 10i that you must remove for the Timney install.  

Look at all the features of aftermarket triggers and decide which is best for you .

Edited by pacrossbow_, 28 January 2012 - 04:38 PM.

[migjunkie]

I put an HHA on and needed a shim like most of the guys here. I cut the plastic  lid off an old Pyrodex container. Worked great. Was shooting 8" high before adding the shim.
I put the QAD on and found it easy to install. I had to use string and half hitches
to tie it to the cable as cable locks will not do. Works as advertised. I was not able to shoot many bolts due to the HHA and needed shim.

Edited by migjunkie, 28 January 2012 - 07:36 PM.

[Super 91]

pacrossbow_, on 28 January 2012 - 09:54 AM, said:

This has nothing to do with the PSE TAC but everything to do with the design of the AR-15 trigger you decide to use.

There are triggers out there that allow you to have the safety on and allow the hammer to be cocked.  I use a JARD single stage trigger (set way lower then any Timney can go and also with zero creep) and cocking is non issue since it can be set in the safe position and then cocked.  Both their single and double stage triggers are this way.

The Timney is nice but you can't put it in safe with the hammer fallen and it is non adjustable (install is easier though since it is a straight drop in).

I can however remove the factory trigger and install a JARD, Geissele, or similar trigger without having to remove the steel pin on the TAC 15i or 10i that you must remove for the Timney install.  

Look at all the features of aftermarket triggers and decide which is best for you .

For the TAC-15, you have hit the nail on the head.  My original TAC-15 had a Les Baer lower with a 2 pound Jewel 2 stage.  I could put the weapon on safety and then cock it.  Then I got the TAC-15i and replaced the trigger with a Timney and could not do this which I do not like.  The next TAC-15 I get I will do just like you have and get a trigger that will allow this.  Just makes me feel better.

Thanks for your post.  Very informative.

[xbow755]

Hi Super 91,
Welcome back my friend, to the show that never ends! Glad to have you back onboard.

Xbow755

[Super 91]

Glad to be back.  Things are starting to settle down some, so I might actually have time to get on here a little bit now!

[xbow755]

Things have been way to quiet on both sites and there seems to be little if any forward progress in the areas of tuning or new products.

Most of my time recently has been spent working on vertical bow technology and tuning, so I still try to jump on the forums daily and add some helpful guidence to those who need it, but I haven't had the time to test or evaluate any of the new offerings.

Xbw755

[Super 91]

It will be a few months due to other "fun" purchases right now, but I hope to be testing and re-evaluating the original TAC-15 during the summer months.  I think it has advantages over the TAC-15i but will not know till I do my testing which I will post as I complete that at a later date.

[Buzzard Bait]

Glad you're back Super 91!

I'm looking forward to your testing results since I have an original TAC 15. One thing I'm got to do is replace the cables; the serving is almost worn through on both of them. Replacing the cables includes adjusting the timing of the cams which is something I've never done before, so I'm open to suggestions or what to do's.

BB

[xbow755]

Hi Buzzard Bait,
I can' help you save the current cables, since their worn down, but when you get the new ones, you might want to purchase some BYC or Bohning Bowstring Wax. Not the regular wax, but instead their Silicon Wax. The crossbow cables and many of todays fastest shooting bows are all using newer string materials that require Silicon to keep them correctly lubricated and extend the life of the strings.

I would suggest a good coat of wax after every 200 shots or three or four times per year. This will greatly help maintain the cables lifespan. PSE will probably never talk about string maintenance because it's not in their best interest. They would prefer you replace your cables twice annually with their new ones, if you know what I mean?

Regards,

Xbow755

[pacrossbow_]

xbow755, on 08 February 2012 - 01:50 AM, said:

Hi Buzzard Bait,
I can' help you save the current cables, since their worn down, but when you get the new ones, you might want to purchase some BYC or Bohning Bowstring Wax. Not the regular wax, but instead their Silicon Wax. The crossbow cables and many of todays fastest shooting bows are all using newer string materials that require Silicon to keep them correctly lubricated and extend the life of the strings.

I would suggest a good coat of wax after every 200 shots or three or four times per year. This will greatly help maintain the cables lifespan. PSE will probably never talk about string maintenance because it's not in their best interest. They would prefer you replace your cables twice annually with their new ones, if you know what I mean?

Regards,

Xbow755

Hi Xbow,

So you are waxing the entire string and cables (so the wax penetrates the serving over the string material) correct?

I know we use to do this with certain compound bows, wasn't sure if it was recommended or not for the TACs.

Thanks

[xbow755]

Hi pacrossbow,
I hope all has been going well for you since we last spoke.

I can't say for sure what anybody is or isn't recommending because as you already know there is a very limited amount of information published on the TAC crossbows. I can only tell you that I use a silicon based bowstring wax on my cables and servings. I use a lighter coating on the servings so that as I work it arond and along the length of each cable it disappears and leaves no build up of wax showing. Any place on my string where I've done serving work,such as where my QAD Rests Timing Cord was served in, I add a little extra silicon wax to these areas to prevent any freying or drying from taking place. I always try to keep any excess wax away from the cams on the crossbow, so they don't become a magnet for dirt or small particals.

I don't want to brag because it's probably bad luck, but I'm still on my original cables and string with over three thousand shots on them.

Is it because of the maintenance regime that I use?  I don't know that for sure, I only know that my TAC15i has been through a lot more shooting than most, due to all the testing and evaluation work that I'm usually involved in. I do know that using a silcon based wax is recommended by most string makers and the latest high end compound bow manufactures. This is because of the newest generation of materials that are being used for fast flight, no stretch strings. Therefore it stands to reason that since these same materials are being used to build the cables for crossbows, I would believe the same maintenance products would apply.

Hope this helps.

Xbow755

[Super 91]

Buzzard Bait, on 07 February 2012 - 09:49 PM, said:

Glad you're back Super 91!

I'm looking forward to your testing results since I have an original TAC 15. One thing I'm got to do is replace the cables; the serving is almost worn through on both of them. Replacing the cables includes adjusting the timing of the cams which is something I've never done before, so I'm open to suggestions or what to do's.

BB

Hey BB, replacing the cables is not  a problem at all.  Take all kinds of measurements prior to making the change.  Learning to leave the top yoke straight and putting twist in the bottom yoke is tough, but if you do it right, you will get the cam timing perfect and axle to axle right on the money.  I would also suggest going with Viper-X strings and cables.  Jesse is the only string maker that PSE has authorized to be their official replacement string maker.

One thing I think xbow755 has been very fortunate, as I was on my first TAC was having very smooth rails for the cables to ride on.  I have seen a couple come through here that still had the tooling marks on them and if you got 100 shots out of the cables you were lucky.  If they are mirror smooth and you use a quality silicon lube, the cables will last for a very, very  long time as xbow755 is experincing.  My first TAC was still going strong after many, many shots and found very little wear with very little maintenance.

When you get to the point that you need to do the cable and/or string replacement, feel free to give me a shout.  One thing I like to do when I replace the strings and cables is to pull the limb bolts all the way out, clean them and the bolt hole really well, clean up all the metal shavings or crap you WILL find in there, and put a really good grease back in place like MIL-TEC or the like.  You will most likely run these bolts in an out about 100 times it seems to get the bow in perfect specs.  Unless you have a press of course.  I just back the limb bolts out one turn at a time and the same to tighten.

[Buzzard Bait]

Super 91, I'll be giving you a call when I replace the cables. I sort of feel like this cable replacement discussion is hyjacking migjunkie's question on safety so I think I'ii start a new thread on string and cable replacement with before and after photos.....something like the QAD Rest Installation article. Like xbow755 said "there is a limited amount of information published on the TAC crossbows". I know I'll learn something and maybe a how to article on string and cable replacement will be of benefit to some of our fellow TAC owners.

Right now I'm working on food plots for next year (soil samples, etc.) and waiting for a new string and cables.

[Super 91]

Gotcha.  Didn't think about hijacking the thread, sorry about that!