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SZ380 accuracy


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#1 elkwisher

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Posted 28 January 2012 - 10:21 PM

I just joined the crossbow ranks with a SZ380.  I'm using the HHA speed dial/single reticle scope system and was sighting in today.  I probably had my hopes up too high after watching youtube videos of guys shooting at 80 and 100yds and having small groups.  At 20yds I was getting 2"-3" groups (one arrow did get Robin Hooded).  Then when I went to 60yds. my groups were 6-8".  I had a good solid bench-type rest.  Is this the best I can expect?  Is this operator deficiency?  With my vertical bow in the past I was getting 5-6" groups at 60yds. and 1-2" groups at 20yds.

What kind of groups do other SZ380 owners achieve?  What's realistic?

Thanks for the input.

#2 vixenmaster

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Posted 28 January 2012 - 10:50 PM

How light of total arrow weight are you shooting ? SZ380 is a fast model & it takes good arrow to be accurate at that range. There will be several answer yer ? better that have that model.
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#3 miked

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Posted 28 January 2012 - 11:34 PM

I found that out of a box of gold lazer 2's, 2 or 3 bolts seemed to group better than the rest. I stoppped shooting mine at 80 yards and I really wouldnt consider shooting a deer past 60 yards. I did have 1 to 1.5 groups at 60 yards though. I started shooting at different points on target at 60 because I didnt want what happened 40 yards. 2 bolts that were messed up, one split and the fletching ripped of other. I held 3 inch groups at 80 yards and knew it would get better the more I shot. Thats a good distance for human error to start takin over. You better have a real steady hand to split at that distance. I shoot gold tips with 125 grain field points, so should be around 365 fps. Not quite like human error out of a rifle at 80 to 100 yards traveling at 3000 fps! Just my opion :sword:
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#4 randyxx75

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Posted 29 January 2012 - 08:01 AM

Elk,,,, Miked is spot on ,,the arrows that come with it are Gold Tip Laser IIs with a stryker sticker on it, at these speeds the arrow spine comes to play very much, you can't do it with these arrows as the nock is glued in, but we rotate the nock to make one of the hen vanes the cock vane, shoot it, if that doesnt work,,, rotate it again, if that doesnt work strip the vanes and refletch again in the opposite location and repeat the process, "Tuning" we call it
Also , I have shot out of my rifle rest and actually got much poorer results than if I just used a sandbag !! , the rest can make a difference as well, this pic was a while back , with stock arrows , it was at 55 yds. if you group them , they are pretty close...

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#5 elkwisher

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Posted 29 January 2012 - 10:06 AM

Thanks guys.  I am shooting the Maxima Hunter KV, 20" w/ Fusion vanes, 125g. point.  I was wondering if I should try a heavier point, 150g.???
I will keep trying.  I've used helical on my arrows for my vertical bow and I have a slipover knock for fletching, so I might try re-fletching with a slight helical.  What do you think?

#6 elkwisher

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Posted 29 January 2012 - 10:13 AM

Randyxx75:  I'm not sure I understand your comments about rotating the nocks.  I've tuned arrows in the past by rotating broadheads & heating and tweaking them to get the to spin without wobble, but I've never done anything with nocks.  The nocks on my Maxima Hunter KV arrows are not glued in & they have moon nocks.  Can you give a little more explanation?  Thanks much

#7 vixenmaster

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Posted 29 January 2012 - 10:32 AM

Nocks that are not glued in you can turn to another vane & try it as the cock vane to see if'en its more accurate. If not turn nok to the next vane and try it. Usually one of the 3 vanes will shoot where your others are
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#8 elkwisher

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Posted 29 January 2012 - 11:14 AM

My arrows all weigh 426g.  I tried my vertical bow arrows w/ FletchFlex vanes with a helical on them and they fit in the rail groove without touching the sides or the bottom.  So, I think I will try refletching these arrows with that vane set up.  I'm still wondering if 150g. point would help?

#9 Moon

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Posted 29 January 2012 - 01:02 PM

I doubt a heavier point will help.  It will weaken the arrow's relative spine. try it anyway.

Do not shoot the crossbow off a hard rest. It will result in poor groups.  Try sitting in a chair with your left elbow on your thigh or side, holding the fore end of the crossbow loosely. Let it do what it wants to do when it fires.
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#10 Ky Bob

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Posted 29 January 2012 - 01:20 PM

View PostMoon, on 29 January 2012 - 01:02 PM, said:

Do not shoot the crossbow off a hard rest. It will result in poor groups.  Try sitting in a chair with your left elbow on your thigh or side, holding the fore end of the crossbow loosely. Let it do what it wants to do when it fires.

I've never heard that before but I'm sure there's a reason. So one should not shoot off a sand bag?

Edited by Ky Bob, 29 January 2012 - 01:21 PM.

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#11 randyxx75

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Posted 29 January 2012 - 01:43 PM

I think he means something hard such as a porch rail KY, the "bounce" can effect POI as the recoil influences the arrow before it leaves the bow, sand bags should be fine

#12 TacomaShooter

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Posted 29 January 2012 - 01:51 PM

View Postrandyxx75, on 29 January 2012 - 01:43 PM, said:

I think he means something hard such as a porch rail KY, the "bounce" can effect POI as the recoil influences the arrow before it leaves the bow, sand bags should be fine
I've never thought of that, but now that I've read it...makes perfect sense.
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#13 LoveLabs

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Posted 29 January 2012 - 07:56 PM

View Postelkwisher, on 29 January 2012 - 10:13 AM, said:

Randyxx75:  I'm not sure I understand your comments about rotating the nocks.  I've tuned arrows in the past by rotating broadheads & heating and tweaking them to get the to spin without wobble, but I've never done anything with nocks.  The nocks on my Maxima Hunter KV arrows are not glued in & they have moon nocks.  Can you give a little more explanation?  Thanks much


He means to rotate the nock so that one of the hen vanes becomes the cock vane.  If THAT hen vane won't make the arrow impact with the others, try the remaining hen vane by rotating the nock again.

If one of the hen vanes work, I label it with a magic marker as C-O-C-K on both sides and I draw stripes in a a "swept wing" configuration on BOTH SIDES of the other hen and the original cock vane so that I do not mis-load the arrow and put the wrong vane in the rail.

If neither of the hen vanes make that arrow group with the others, then you need to refletch.  Do this in such a manner that the 3 vanes are offset 60 degrees from where the original 3 vanes were (splitting the difference because each of the old vanes were 120 degrees apart).  I refletch with all 3 vanes the same color.  Then I rotate the nock until I find one of the vanes which make that arrow group with the others.  I then label it
C-O-C-K on both sides with a magic marker and make the "swept wing" has marks on BOTH SIDES of the other vanes so I load the proper one down the rail.

It sounds more complicated than it is.

Edited by LoveLabs, 29 January 2012 - 07:58 PM.


#14 elkwisher

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Posted 29 January 2012 - 08:03 PM

Thanks all for your input.  I will try rotating the nock as per your descriptions.  I understand your practice here.
The reason I thought of a 150g tip is because Slick Trick has come out this year with a 150g crossbow broadhead.  I've used Tricks for several years and had very good success as to flight and in all the deer I've taken.  It would surely move the FOC, possibly too far forward.  I may try some field points after tuning the fletching and see what happens.

God bless you all; wild meat rules.