29x what does 450 fps mean in practice?

Technically, the arrow never flies flat, it starts arching as soon as it leaves the rail. That being said, the tractery of the arch is flatter at higher speeds.

As Robert said, the sight-in distance matters as far as hold-under at close ranges and hold-over at farther ranges.

For example, consider these 4 sight-in distances using a Ravin bow with medium scope rings (3.06" center of scope above center of arrow), at 450fps:

20yd sight-in - - -
20 yd 0.0
30 yd -1.3"
40 yd - 4.5"
50 yd - 9.8"

25 yd sight-in - - -
20 yd +0.3"
30 yd - 0.8"
40 yd - 3.9"
50 yd - 9.0"

30 yd sight-in - - -
20 yd +0.8"
30 yd 0.0
40 yd -2.8"
50 yd -7.7"

35 yd sight-in - - -
20 yd +1.5"
30 yd +1.0"
40 yd - 1.5"
50 yd - 6.0"

* note: All numbers are from the Hawke X-ACT software, which BTW is no longer supported by Hawke), and of course all drops would have to be confirmed with actual practice shooting.

For example, consider these 4 sight-in distances using a Ravin bow with medium scope rings (3.06" center of scope above center of arrow),


at 450fps: at 400fps
- - - 20yd sight-in - - -
20 yd 0.0 0.0
30 yd -1.3" -2.0"
40 yd - 4.5" -6.5"
50 yd - 9.8" -13.6"

- - - 25 yd sight-in - - -
20 yd +0.3" +0.6"
30 yd - 0.8" -1.2"
40 yd - 3.9" -5.4"
50 yd - 9.0" -12.3"

- - - 30 yd sight-in - - -
20 yd +0.8" +1.3"
30 yd 0.0 0.0
40 yd -2.8" -3.8"
50 yd -7.7" -10.3"

- - - 35 yd sight-in - - -
20 yd +1.5" +2.2"
30 yd +1.0" +1.4"
40 yd - 1.5" -2.0"
50 yd - 6.0" -8.0"

* note: All numbers are from the Hawke X-ACT software, which BTW is no longer supported by Hawke), and of course all drops would have to be confirmed with actual practice shooting.

** I have no idea how, or if, any of these columns will line up properly, but they look good on my tablet!



Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk

For example, consider these 4 sight-in distances using a Ravin bow with medium scope rings (3.06" center of scope above center of arrow),


at 450fps _____ at 400fps
- - - 20yd sight-in - - -
20 yd 0.0 _______ 0.0
30 yd -1.3"_____ -2.0"
40 yd - 4.5"_____ -6.5"
50 yd - 9.8"____ -13.6"

- - - 25 yd sight-in - - -
20 yd +0.3"_____+0.6"
30 yd - 0.8"_____ -1.2"
40 yd - 3.9"_____ -5.4"
50 yd - 9.0"____ -12.3"

- - - 30 yd sight-in - - -
20 yd +0.8"_____ +1.3"
30 yd 0.0 ______ 0.0
40 yd -2.8"_____ -3.8"
50 yd -7.7"____ -10.3"

- - - 35 yd sigt-in - - -
20 yd +1.5"_____ +2.2"
30 yd +1.0"_____ +1.4"
40 yd - 1.5"_____ -2.0"
50 yd - 6.0"_____ -8.0"

* note: All numbers are from the Hawke X-ACT software, which BTW is no longer supported by Hawke), and of course all drops would have to be confirmed with actual practice shooting.

** I have no idea how, or if, any of these columns will line up properly, but they look good on my tablet!

Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk


Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk

I like the idea of the good speed dial scope. But, I still don't like the optics available for crossbows. I have used lots of them. In day light they are all pretty decent. I haven't found a good one in low light. I find lighted recticles usesless at dusk. when you need them they are too bright and all you can see is recticle. The light gathering is never good on the cross bow scopes I have used. I would like a better low light scope without going with an ATN behemoth.

I have always liked the low light Trijicon recticles in rifle scopes so I tried that this year. It seems to have just the right recticle light no matter at what point of dimming light you are in. So I really like that in their cross bow scope. That scope is light and small so I think it looks good on the R26. The optics quality is about as good as any of the others and better than some. So for me that is about the best. Coincidentally, sighting it in at 30 yards like they suggest puts point of impact pretty close to where I want it from 0-40. It was nice that that was somewhat confirmed above

My Crossbow New Years resolution is to practice more with more variables like riflenut suggests. I think that will help my overall hunting ability. I have been trying to video deer more in the blind also, as I had a friend suggest that doing that has calmed down his nerves. It is so hard to do all the right things at the right time with a big buck in range!

I think the one I mentioned above did perhaps jump the string I remember shooting much lower than the arrow ended up hitting. But on that deer I was using an R20 with a sniper set up for 30yeards (I thought) and the deer was at 20 yards. So that might have caused the arrow to go high? I have since removed the sniper set up and am just trying to reduce my mistake factors as much as I can.

This forum and all of you guys contributing is just a wealth of knowledge and experience so I am also going to keep reading here.

I believe one of the problems guys make if they are wounding or missing deer is they get too excited at the moment of truth. It's not their gear as much as it is them. They need to ingrain a procedure in their head such that's it part of their subconscious. One thing I learned from shooting my vertical compounds so much years ago is that once you get a technique ingrained in your subconscious, your conscious mind can now fully focus on nothing but aiming.

If I might make a suggestion without the risk of offending anyone, I'd like to suggest the following:
1. When you practice, get in the habit of telling yourself OK. It's X distance so I need to use X reticle.
2. Now before you flip the safety off, place the X reticle dead on the target bullseye and now level your crossbow by centering the bubble with you other eye while your dominate eye is centered in the scope.
3. Then gently squeeze the safety off and repeat step 2 except this time your index finger is on the trigger.
4. Now focus on absolutely nothing but the exact spot you want to hit and provide continuous pressure to the trigger until the shot breaks.
Practice this technique over and over until the shot breaks as a complete surprise and all you see is the arrow headed to the target or in the target.

Now when you go hunting and a animal comes within range and it's not a shooter, slowly bring your crossbow up and repeat steps 1 and 2 above. This will get you accustomed to keeping calm with a animal in range.
In addition, if you bring the crossbow up on a live animal that IS a Shooter, try to tell yourself something like this first:
"Remember, Pick a Spot and Don't Rush the Shot"
Even repeat it several times if necessary.
Now since your subconscious knows what to do and you know what reticle you want to use, just steady aim at a hair you want to hit and let the shot break on it's own.
I guarantee if you practice this technique diligently, there won't be anymore wounded or missed animals.

Again, don't want to offend anyone but just making a suggestion.

Philztoy, When you mentioned, "My Crossbow New Years resolution is to practice more with more variables like riflenut suggests. I think that will help my overall hunting ability,"

That reminded me of the training and practice we did as we trained to do Sniper work in Vietnam ( and state side when we returned home). We were taught and I believe to this day, that practice makes perfect and lack of practice will guarantee the ones shooting skills will degrade...no matter how good they are. When we were not on a mission we spent all our time on the range (eight to ten hours a day). This spring in March I started practicing and put one or two thousand arrows down range at least by hunting season on October 1st thru my R10. I wanted to be able to feel that my crossbow was like my hand or arm, just as we did with sniper rifles. By hunting season I had total confidence that I could put an arrow within a Tennis ball size target at 100 yards and dimes at anything under 70 (not to say I would take a shot there, just wanted to know I could). I suggest if you want total confidence and no hunter's jitters, practice, practice, then practice some more. When kneeling, sitting, standing, off hand, and with a rest...in other words in every conceivable scenario you might com upon. Make that crossbow your third arm! Just as Riflenut suggests.