I thought some time how should that rubber adhesive little patch should be mounted, but the shape let only one possibility, I don't think it can be mounted wrong. Maybe only NOT mounted. About distance, I think that string should push the arrow in the center-of-gravity plan, which for a 8.8mm diameter arrow, is 4.4 mm above the rail... ideally.... so the string should be raised to hit center of nock not low, pushing asymmetrically only on nock wing...
I thought some time how should that rubber adhesive little patch should be mounted, but the shape let only one possibility, I don't think it can be mounted wrong. Maybe only NOT mounted. About distance, I think that string should push the arrow in the center-of-gravity plan, which for a 8.8mm diameter arrow, is 4.4 mm above the rail... ideally.... so the string should be raised to hit center of nock not low, pushing asymmetrically only on nock wing...
I've read some other post of yours in the triggerbox improvement thread. Now I am studying the video of the two guys installing the upgrade kit, in order to decide whether or not I feel confident enough to remove triggerbox in order to polish the latches. Actually, now i see there are two latches, left and right. Not complicated, but might void guarantee.... kinda also not really existing. Is it? Not receved any guarantee paper fromthe survivalist online shop in Germany that I bought this crossbow from.
I've read some other post of yours in the triggerbox improvement thread. Now I am studying the video of the two guys installing the upgrade kit, in order to decide whether or not I feel confident enough to remove triggerbox in order to polish the latches. Actually, now i see there are two latches, left and right. Not complicated, but might void guarantee.... kinda also not really existing. Is it? Not receved any guarantee paper fromthe survivalist online shop in Germany that I bought this crossbow from.
after i did the polish, i think lot more will and can go wrong to re assembling trigger for it
you dont need much to polish it with 2000 or 2500p, few stripes and then clean em
if you plan to shape em too then it takes bit more, but 600p ate it pretty fast
That is a no no I have been told. Way to easy to mess up. Use this method and it works correctly.
Just cut strips about 1/8 to 1/4" wide and 5" or longer out of the sandpaper you are going to use. Then drop the latches on your bow and work a strip around one latch at a time and polish it then do the other. Then go to a finer grit paper and do the same thing until all is smooth. It is easy to do while on the bow usually.
I only did the back and back sides of mine. I probably went about 20 or so strokes using 1200 grit and the same using 2500 grit paper. One latch was still barely fraying so I hit it again with the 2500 grit and it has been fine since.
Thanks. I have 1500grit, 2000 and 5000. I will cover the mechanism access with adhesive paper band. Now i got a feel about what;s to be done. I appreciate it.
Remove all the masking tape and use a clean rag and also blow down into the trigger area just to make certain no shavings remain. They are too small too see usually. If you see any fraying at all on either side do that latch again using your finest grit paper.
I will take the first shooting tomorrow with it. Until then, I build a static and dynamic spine tester, with dial gauge, bearings, laser pointer, a beauty. I will make myself some of the best arrows available. Just bragging. Cheers.
Damnit, another day another serving gone.
There isn't a shop around that can do decent crossbow serving. I decided months ago to do my own.
Problem is, I forgot spare string in car during competition
Damnit, another day another serving gone.
There isn't a shop around that can do decent crossbow serving. I decided months ago to do my own.
Problem is, I forgot spare string in car during competition
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