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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a used AeroCrank AD. It's not on the correct stock to mount on my Orion Extreme.
I think it has the lastest upgrades. The inside of the left cover is dated 11-19-22. I assume the build or upgrade date.
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FireNock's website has a step by step instructions for string change. Step 12 states a Teflon washer goes under the right side spool. They have a You-Tube video, AeroCrank Assembly, that shows the Teflon washer installed under the left side spool.

Another You-Tube video states the Orion will need a different sled than newer Scorpyds, available from FireNock for $20 shipped. The one I have is too thick to decock, so I need the thinner one.
My Questions:

1) Will it install in a stock drilled for Acudraw without any modifications to the current holes? I can see a part of a hole on the stock it's currently mounted on. I am not sure why they drilled such a large hole. :unsure: The unit will not cover it:mad::cry:. I worry dirt/moisture will get in.
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My drill template for Acudraw looks like the post holes will match.
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2) Which spool does the Teflon washer go under?

3) Anybody know how to find/order the correct sled from FireNock? I cannot find it on their website.
 

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You will have to make a bigger hole or cut out in the rear , bolt pattern is the same .
I have taken a bunch of those cranks in half if you want a how to do it , just shoot a PM my way .
Also the sled you have will not cock or set the latch , beside uncocking !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You will have to make a bigger hole or cut out in the rear , bolt pattern is the same .
I have taken a bunch of those cranks in half if you want a how to do it , just shoot a PM my way .
Also the sled you have will not cock or set the latch , beside uncocking !!
Should the larger rear hole not be covered on the right side? I can see it on the stock it's mounted to.
I will PM for instructions.
Do you know the P/N for the correct sled?
Which side should have the Teflon washer below the spool? (I would have used one on both sides), so no chance of assembling wrong.
I wish Scorpyd had put threaded inserts in their later stocks to also fit the Orion platform rails. It would have cost pennies and made inventory simpler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got the instruction for R&R from Burky (y) (y) (y) (y) 🤠 :love:
I finally got brave enough to take it apart. :whistle:
Burky's instructions has you remove the left spool. I found a white Teflon washer behind it. No idea if there is a Teflon washer behind the right spool :unsure:
Here's view from the right with the right side off. Note the gasket and part of a clearance hole OUTSIDE the gasket. Second picture is with the gasket off, you can see the left side gasket through the too large hole. This could let dirt/moisture in.:mad::mad:😥
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My plan to "fix" the oversize hole was to cover it up. I have some .039" thick aluminum sheet metal. I was going to make a larger "gasket" (big enough to cover the hole that extends outside of the crank body) and put it between the stock and the gasket.

On the stock that I drilled for an Acudraw the hole for cover plates/blanks, and Acudraw Pro, would be 1/2 exposed. I was going to make two plates to use if I wanted to put the AeroCrank on this stock.

I discussed this with Burky. He said adding these plates would cause the AeroCrank not to function. He said the width had to stay at the width the stock added. Scrap plan A 😥

My intended bow for the AeroCrank is an Orion Extreme 175. The stock the AeroCrank came on does not have the side rail screw threaded inserts in the correct place. I considered trying to add inserts. But decided it would be easier to move the AeroCrank to my stock that fits the Orion Extreme and is drilled for Acudraw and deal with hole mentioned in the second paragraph. Plus, and clearance issues mounting the AeroCrank in an Acudraw drilled hole pattern.

The picture shows the left half of the AeroCrank loosely installed to check clearance(s). Green tape shows the hole that will be 1/2 exposed with an AeroCrank (it has a smaller "footprint"). The blue tape shows the areas that would interfere with the one-way bearing.
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I filed the area the blue tape points to so when the one-way bearing is installed on the shaft the left half can be removed without taking the bearing off. For the hole the green tape points to I wanted something to fill it. A piece of round aluminum or nylon would work, but I did not have any. :mad: So, ******* engineering, I found if a sanded the paper wrap off a round pencil it was a perfect fit. Picture is after filing for the one-way bearing and the one-way bearing installed and the test fit on the pencil. Then cut to fit.
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😁🤠
The above picture shows the cut off pencil in the hole green tape points to. I put on the gasket to show how much of the hole would be exposed when the right half of the AeroCrank is installed. I plan to dab black paint on both ends of the pencil to try and seal it (also hide it) before I finish installing the AeroCrank.

I still need to order the correct sled from Fire Nock for this bow. Then the next project will be see if I can build a sled holder. 😁 😁🤠
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Assembly update.
I let the black paint on my "pencil plug dry overnight. I firgured assembly would be a piece of cake!
WRONG! :mad:
This is the FIRST time I ever took an AeroCrank off a stock and same for putting it back on.

I thought I could install the one-way bearing on the crankshaft on the left half of the AeroCrank. I made clearance hole big enough to assemble from the left side. The left half easily installed into the stock. BUT the big gear on the spool shaft goes UNDER the one-way bearing. OOPS! First picture shows the crank shaft, note the 14 tooth gear. Second picture shows the one-way bearing installed, it's OD is bigger than the 14 tooth gear.
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Easy fix, put the one-way bearing loosely in the right half, and with stock left side up, install from below. Don't forget the gasket!
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Next is the four screws that hold the two halves together. They install from the right side and are Torx T10. I tightened them all finger tight then pulled out the cord to make sure it is retracting back OK. It was sluggish.:unsure:
Maybe the halves are a little cocked? I tightened the front screws and checked again. It was worse. :mad:

What could be binding it up? I checked the wood plug I made out a pencil, or did I? Easy to pull apart and check. I am not going to continue until I figure this out. The pencil plug had plenty of clearance, so not that.
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Maybe the switch (at the rear of the right side) for the one-way bearing was ON and not OFF? I'll reassemble and check. Same problem, spool binding up, cord rewind is sluggish. Maybe I have to loosen the 3 prong wheel for the drag? That was not it either. :whistle::unsure:

I changed stocks, maybe this stock is thicker? I can take it apart and measure the thickness of both stocks. The one it came off measures .245". The current stock measures .250". I doubt .005" would bind it up. So, I assemble it again. The problem is still there. :mad: Maybe the spool shaft is binding up when I tighten the four screws? I find I can move the spool shaft a little left and right. It can't be binding. That only leaves the drag. I did not take it apart. I did not remove it from the left half. I did not remove the 3 prong knob. :unsure:
SO, MAYBE that's why the stock it was mounted on had the "giant" rear hole that the unit could not cover? That hole measures 1 3/4" diameter. I now install the left half. The crankshaft (which is also the shaft for the drag turns free. I squeeze the left half tight to the stock by hand. Now the crankshaft is hard to turn! Examining the left half, I can see the drag sits "proud" to the half enough to bind up against the stock. If I add a 1 3/4" hole, I will have the same partial hole not covered by the right half. I think a 1 1/2" hole will give me enough clearance.
SUCESS! :love: I used a hole to add a 1 1/2" hole.
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Continuing assembly, this time when the four side screws were tightened the cord pulls out and retracts as it should! 😍 Moving to the left side, first a stainless steel washer goes on the spool shaft, then a white Teflon washer.
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Before you install the left spool, you have to pull the cord out all the way to the end that's on the right spool. This will be winding the retraction spring and pull harder as you near the end. Have the crank handle ready to put on the crankshaft when you get to the end. This makes it easier to hold when you install the left spool. I left the cord tied to the spool. Make sure you install the spool so the cord is coming off the top the spool and the knot is towards the back of the stock. The spool sits a little "proud" of the shaft end. When you install the screw do not over tighten it. It is also a Torx T10. While doing this continue to hold the crank handle to prevent the shafts from turning!
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Next wind the cords on the spools. The retraction spring will do this for you. Hold both cords (one from each spool) to control the winding. Remove the crank handle and allow the cord to retract/wind onto the spools.
Pull the cords out and let them retract several times to make sure all is well.

All that is left to install are the spool covers. Notice they have cut out for the screws. Make sure they lined up correctly then install two screws for each cover, again a Torx T10.
DONE! :love: 🤠
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
You can ask Firenock for catolog. Has all the parts in it.
I’m not sure which sled. But photo shows what they have. View attachment 249410
Thanks for the catalog picture. I called Firenock and ordered a sled. I told them the year and model crossbow. My Invoice says "thin sled". When It arrives, I will compare to the catalog pictures.
You will have to make a bigger hole or cut out in the rear , bolt pattern is the same .
I have taken a bunch of those cranks in half if you want a how to do it , just shoot a PM my way .
Also the sled you have will not cock or set the latch , beside uncocking !!
You are correct, I tried the sled, by hand, not cranking the string back and it is too big to fit the latch box.
New one ordered from Firenock, it should be here next week.
I ASSUME the sled I have is for post Orion Scorpyd crossbows, Aculeus, Nemesis, Tremor and Death Stalkers?
 

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Burky, have you had the right side spool off? If so, is there a large white Teflon washer behind it?
Yes one time and the spring uncoiled , that is why i say leave it on .

IMO that Teflon washer is useless , the washer that is most important is the smaller steel one , I actually take the Teflon one out and the crank works much better .
it causes more friction when you pull out the sled and or want the sled to retract back into the crank .
That washer needs to be small like the steel washer .
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I did notice the washer was warped. I figured that was the nature of Teflon. I did not measure it's thickness. I think I could find a smaller OD Teflon washer or replace it with stainless steel washer, smaller OD, but same thickness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes one time and the spring uncoiled , that is why i say leave it on .

IMO that Teflon washer is useless , the washer that is most important is the smaller steel one , I actually take the Teflon one out and the crank works much better .
it causes more friction when you pull out the sled and or want the sled to retract back into the crank .
That washer needs to be small like the steel washer .
Was there a Teflon washer behind the right side spool? Just wondering, I will not take that spool off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the catalog picture. I called Firenock and ordered a sled. I told them the year and model crossbow. My Invoice says "thin sled". When It arrives, I will compare to the catalog pictures.

You are correct, I tried the sled, by hand, not cranking the string back and it is too big to fit the latch box.
New one ordered from Firenock, it should be here next week.
I ASSUME the sled I have is for post Orion Scorpyd crossbows, Aculeus, Nemesis, Tremor and Death Stalkers?
Here is the new sled from Firenock. I told them it was for a 2016 Orion Extreme 175.
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It matches the middle one in the Firenock catalog. It does not have the longer ADF pin that goes into the center slot of the rail where the arrow goes. But is thinner than the sled for a Death Stalker that came with the AeroCrank I bought used. So, it will slide into the Orion's latch box. I have not tried to cock or decock yet.

Does anyone know why the longer ADF pin on Version 2.1LT? What crossbow(s) it is used with?
 

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Here is the new sled from Firenock. I told them it was for a 2016 Orion Extreme 175. View attachment 250510

It matches the middle one in the Firenock catalog. It does not have the longer ADF pin that goes into the center slot of the rail where the arrow goes. But is thinner than the sled for a Death Stalker that came with the AeroCrank I bought used. So, it will slide into the Orion's latch box. I have not tried to cock or decock yet.

Does anyone know why the longer ADF pin on Version 2.1LT? What crossbow(s) it is used with?
Where is the MIM top metal and screws? That catalog pic is different than the one DaveKeo posted above. Do you have to use the top metal and screws from your current sled, or just the nylon? Which pic is more current? It looks like there is another change made comparing the 2?

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The catalog is a 2022 edition in my post.
I am not sure what year catalog DaveKeo posted.

Firenock only sends the Delrin part. I had to use the two metal pieces and screws from the sled that came with the used AeroCrank I bought. Seller said it was from a Death Stalker. Only difference I see is the part that slides on the top of the rail on each side of the arrow groove of the rail is thinner, so it will enter into the Orionn's latch box. I think in the catalog they call it a relief plate?

It has more material at the front compared to the top picture in the catalog (as did the DS sled). But is does not have the longer ADF pin, like the third sled in the catalog picture I posted. It's to the right in the picture, in the center up and down of the sled.

My ADF pin matches the Middle sled in the catalog picture I posted. If you look closely, you can see the ADF pin in each sled is longer than the one above it.

No idea why three different lengths.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Here is picture from the 2022 Firenock catalog. I drew the red line even with the end ADF pin of the third sled to try and show each sled above has a shorter ADF pin.
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I used my Harbor Freight digital calipers (probably not the most accurate) to measure the thickness of the area to each side of the ADF pins (that rides on the top of the crossbow's rail. The Death Stalker's sled measured 4.75mm. The new sled from Firenock measured 3.35mm. 1.40mm thinner.
 
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