[bowmanxx]

I'm looking for answers to a few questions. Any help will be appreciated. 1. Does firenock 's folding foregrip and rail fit the ventilator extreme 175. When installing the new stock with the aerocrank are there any modifications needed. Pics of these upgrades would be great, can't find anything online. Before I make this purchase I'd like to see what's involved and how it looks. Thanks

 

[DaveKeo]

I'm looking for answers to a few questions. Any help will be appreciated. 1. Does firenock 's folding foregrip and rail fit the ventilator extreme 175. When installing the new stock with the aerocrank are there any modifications needed. Pics of these upgrades would be great, can't find anything online. Before I make this purchase I'd like to see what's involved and how it looks. Thanks

You can ask Dorge at Firenock. He would know if no one else here has an answer.

 

[Zebrafive]

You have to drill two holes in the rail and drill and tap one hole to install a non-folding stock on your Ventilator.
First picture is a non folding stock with AeroCrank.
Second picture shows threaded insert (there is one each side) that needs two holes drilled in the sides of your rail.
Third picture is hole in the bottom of the stock, front of the slot for the trigger. The bottom of the rail must be drilled and tapped for the bolt that goes here.

For the sides of the rail you will need two 8-32 x 1/2" screws. I used hex button head stainless steel screws. I could not find a source for Torx button head Ti screws.
For the screw in front of the trigger slot, you will need to drill and tap your rail for 10-32 bolt. You could reuse the Ventilator bottom bolt. It is 1 1/4" long. Check and make sure it's not too long. I used a 10-32 x 1" stainless steel SHCP (Socket Head Cap Screw), again I could not find a source for it in Torx Ti.
The Ventilator's lower butt stock screw is behind the trigger slot.
The Ventilator butt stock (sides) uses the same screws that also go into the trigger/latch box. These might also be too long without the folding stock. I used stainless steel hex button head screws, 10-24 x 1/2" since the heads were a little lower profile than the stock screws.
With a non folding stock the Ventilator safety will seem to stick out to far. It can be left "as is" Or cut shorter. If cutting the shafts shorter, be sure to have the smaller OD "step" (by the threads in the center) machined on. Or you can cut the knurled heads of and machine the ends. The ends could be machined as simple as a 45° bevel, or machined as a rounded end.
Your Ventilator could have either a brass or stainless steel (maybe Ti?) safety, depending on the year made.
Picture is both brass and S.S.

I am not familiar with the Firenock folding foregrip. Your Ventilator forearm can be used with a non-folding stock.

 

[bowmanxx]

Thanks for the detailed post. I didn't realize there was so much involved.

You have to drill two holes in the rail and drill and tap one hole to install a non-folding stock on your Ventilator.
First picture is a non folding stock with AeroCrank.
Second picture shows threaded insert (there is one each side) that needs two holes drilled in the sides of your rail.
Third picture is hole in the bottom of the stock, front of the slot for the trigger. The bottom of the rail must be drilled and tapped for the bolt that goes here. View attachment 249281 View attachment 249282 View attachment 249283

For the sides of the rail you will need two 8-32 x 1/2" screws. I used hex button head stainless steel screws. I could not find a source for Torx button head Ti screws.
For the screw in front of the trigger slot, you will need to drill and tap your rail for 10-32 bolt. You could reuse the Ventilator bottom bolt. It is 1 1/4" long. Check and make sure it's not too long. I used a 10-32 x 1" stainless steel SHCP (Socket Head Cap Screw), again I could not find a source for it in Torx Ti.
The Ventilator's lower butt stock screw is behind the trigger slot.
The Ventilator butt stock (sides) uses the same screws that also go into the trigger/latch box. These might also be too long without the folding stock. I used stainless steel hex button head screws, 10-24 x 1/2" since the heads were a little lower profile than the stock screws.
With a non folding stock the Ventilator safety will seem to stick out to far. It can be left "as is" Or cut shorter. If cutting the shafts shorter, be sure to have the smaller OD "step" (by the threads in the center) machined on. Or you can cut the knurled heads of and machine the ends. The ends could be machined as simple as a 45° bevel, or machined as a rounded end.
Your Ventilator could have either a brass or stainless steel (maybe Ti?) safety, depending on the year made.
Picture is both brass and S.S. View attachment 249285

I am not familiar with the Firenock folding foregrip. Your Ventilator forearm can be used with a non-folding stock.

Thanks for the detailed response. I didn't realize that so much was involved.

 

[bowmanxx]

You have to drill two holes in the rail and drill and tap one hole to install a non-folding stock on your Ventilator.
First picture is a non folding stock with AeroCrank.
Second picture shows threaded insert (there is one each side) that needs two holes drilled in the sides of your rail.
Third picture is hole in the bottom of the stock, front of the slot for the trigger. The bottom of the rail must be drilled and tapped for the bolt that goes here. View attachment 249281 View attachment 249282 View attachment 249283

For the sides of the rail you will need two 8-32 x 1/2" screws. I used hex button head stainless steel screws. I could not find a source for Torx button head Ti screws.
For the screw in front of the trigger slot, you will need to drill and tap your rail for 10-32 bolt. You could reuse the Ventilator bottom bolt. It is 1 1/4" long. Check and make sure it's not too long. I used a 10-32 x 1" stainless steel SHCP (Socket Head Cap Screw), again I could not find a source for it in Torx Ti.
The Ventilator's lower butt stock screw is behind the trigger slot.
The Ventilator butt stock (sides) uses the same screws that also go into the trigger/latch box. These might also be too long without the folding stock. I used stainless steel hex button head screws, 10-24 x 1/2" since the heads were a little lower profile than the stock screws.
With a non folding stock the Ventilator safety will seem to stick out to far. It can be left "as is" Or cut shorter. If cutting the shafts shorter, be sure to have the smaller OD "step" (by the threads in the center) machined on. Or you can cut the knurled heads of and machine the ends. The ends could be machined as simple as a 45° bevel, or machined as a rounded end.
Your Ventilator could have either a brass or stainless steel (maybe Ti?) safety, depending on the year made.
Picture is both brass and S.S. View attachment 249285

I am not familiar with the Firenock folding foregrip. Your Ventilator forearm can be used with a non-folding stock.

Is this the same for the ventilator extreme? It has a bolt on the bottom before the trigger. It looks to me like it would bolt on with existing holes.

 

[Ironminer]

Is this the same for the ventilator extreme? It has a bolt on the bottom before the trigger. It looks to me like it would bolt on with existing holes.

Does yours have the folding stock? Mine did not.

 

[bowmanxx]

It does.

 

[bowmanxx]

Bottom bolts

 

[Ironminer]

Z5 just went thru this. I’d follow his thread; if you want to do this. Or sell it & upgrade to a new bow.

 

[Zebrafive]

Is this the same for the ventilator extreme? It has a bolt on the bottom before the trigger. It looks to me like it would bolt on with existing holes.

The non-folding stock uses a hole in front of the trigger, not behind it. This is one of the holes that must be added, drilled and tapped 10-32 threads. The other two are in the sides of the rail at the rear. Location depends on the non-folding stock. There are two versions; Orions have these holes up high, Aculeus has these hole closer to centered (but not exactly centered) in the rail side.
The difference between a Ventilator and Ventilator Extreme is the risers.
LMK if you need pictures of the differences. Such as risers, stock hole locations.

 

[Zebrafive]

I have a picatinny rail in the Classifieds you might be interested in

 

[bowmanxx]

. Any reason why this isn't a good option? Easy enough.

 

[GARY W CURTIS]

If I remember correctly, it worked for him, but he became nervous about the longevity. There is a thread on it, either here, or over at CT.

 

[bowmanxx]

If I remember correctly, it worked for him, but he became nervous about the longevity. There is a thread on it, either here, or over at CT.

That's what I figured. I retired this year and I had a neck injury a few years back. Had to fuse 2 vertebrae. I can still cock my vent fairly easily but worried about the stress on my spine. This is my 4th scorpyd and my favorite, dont really want to get rid of it. I can do what is needed to add the stock for the aerocrank but I'm confused about how because l get different instructions about it. Maybe the best thing would be to buy the stock, install it, dip it then send it to Dorge for the aerocrank.

 

[Zebrafive]

That's what I figured. I retired this year and I had a neck injury a few years back. Had to fuse 2 vertebrae. I can still cock my vent fairly easily but worried about the stress on my spine. This is my 4th scorpyd and my favorite, dont really want to get rid of it. I can do what is needed to add the stock for the aerocrank but I'm confused about how because l get different instructions about it. Maybe the best thing would be to buy the stock, install it, dip it then send it to Dorge for the aerocrank.

Unless you want a special pattern, you can buy an AeroCrank installed on a Scorpyd stock from Dorge.
A non-folding stock needs a hole drilled and tapped in front of the trigger. Use the stock as template. And two holes, at the rear of the rail drilled, one each side. You will also need hardware.
You have two stock choices (for fit, not color). Older rear screw position, or newer rear screw position. The position of the two rear holes in the rail.

Burky247365 might be able to design and build a mount for a crank of your choice to fit your current stock.

 

[bowmanxx]

Unless you want a special pattern, you can buy an AeroCrank installed on a Scorpyd stock from Dorge.
A non-folding stock needs a hole drilled and tapped in front of the trigger. Use the stock as template. And two holes, at the rear of the rail drilled, one each side. You will also need hardware.
You have two stock choices (for fit, not color). Older rear screw position, or newer rear screw position. The position of the two rear holes in the rail.

Burky247365 might be able to design and build a mount for a crank of your choice to fit your current stock.

My limbs and scope are kryptek pattern so I'm going to match the stock. Doing it as you describe is simple. Not a problem. Dorge tells me that the top rail bolts are not necessary. Probably put them in anyway. Now I need to find a stock. Out of the 2 which one do you recommend.

 

[Zebrafive]

I would recommend the newer stock. Scorpyd must have changed the hole location for a reason. The first time I removed my Orion stock the two rear screws were bent. No idea how/why they bent. I replaced them with Stainless Steel screws, since I have no source for Ti screws.

What bolts do you mean by top rail bolts? The ones at the back of the rail for the stock?

 

[burky247365]

I would recommend the newer stock. Scorpyd must have changed the hole location for a reason. The first time I removed my Orion stock the two rear screws were bent. No idea how/why they bent. I replaced them with Stainless Steel screws, since I have no source for Ti screws.

What bolts do you mean by top rail bolts? The ones at the back of the rail for the stock?

They lowered them for 2 reasons , one is to match up horizontally with the trigger box screws .
The second and most important is , the stock now can pivot much better away from the trigger blade when removing and installing , with the screws gone up top , they removed some material so it help with assembly .

 

[Zebrafive]

There MAY have been a change to size and location of the screws into the latch box too.
One screw hole is for a #6 screw, the other for a #8 screw.
Note no serial number, so this may be a prototype part? Latch box right side cover plate.

 

[burky247365]

There MAY have been a change to size and location of the screws into the latch box too.
One screw hole is for a #6 screw, the other for a #8 screw.
Note no serial number, so this may be a prototype part? Latch box right side cover plate. View attachment 250335

That trigger box was used in the vent and Orion