I have pulled several sets of unserved cables through my cams on my R20 using a piece of string serving material and it is very easy to do. No damage at all to any of them.
Yes, there's some misinformation on this thread that's almost comical but I'm going to refrain from any criticism.I have pulled several sets of unserved cables through my cams on my R20 using a piece of string serving material and it is very easy to do. No damage at all to any of them.
I called about this free Medicare stuff this past summer and in order to get all this “free stuff” I had to agree to pay 50% of the first couple of overnight hospital stays - I said no thanks and hung up.The more I read these post, the more misinformation I see.
IMO, there should be a picture of Joe Namath and his Medicare commercial preceding this thread.
I think I see where this narrow passage is. There looks to be one screw that goes thru the top pulley and anchors into the bottom pulley.As it is, the limiting factor is the cam pulley. There's only so much space there to pull the cable loop through. So it's very tough to argue that a longer single cable is stronger than 2 shorter cables of the same diameter each with a fixed anchor point at one end.
Correct. The orange pulleys each are pressed in halfway through the cam.Thats what keeps them from breaking the small screw under pressure.I think I see where this narrow passage is. There looks to be one screw that goes thru the top pulley and anchors into the bottom pulley.
From a novice’s point of view, and with a Ravin bow press loosening up the cables, it would seem that the cable could easily be installed by loosening the screw holding the 2 pulleys in place to increase that gap to seat the cable between them and the extension from the axle housing.
HOWEVER - I understand that screw is secured with red Locktite making them really impossible to remove. Is this correct? Thanks.
Well those aren’t coming out then. The loops around the gold pulleys at the rail are served. The loops going thru the orange pulley and axle housing and onto the cam peg are not served.Correct. The orange pulleys each are pressed in halfway through the cam.Thats what keeps them from breaking the small screw under pressure.
I don’t think I’m overthinking anything - but I do believe in thinking it thru thoroughly first.TP,
You are overthinking it.
I should also note I'm helping Eric make GAS strings even better so the set I have is not exactly stock yet. Eric believes continuous improvement is a good thing and I couldn't agree more.
I don’t think I’m overthinking anything - but I do believe in thinking it thru thoroughly first.
I’m still having a little trouble understanding VL’s post here:
"What I offer is both loop ends serves under the process of how GAS strings interlocks them, I may be wrong but I believe it is referred to as a " quad-lock system " . Doing it this way vs others who use a tagged out style loop makes the string / cable system a much more stable set".
Firenock’s cable is unserved on the cam end. Still not sure what VL offers.
One of Firenock’s cable suppliers is GAS - I think VL might be making his own cables.
I should make a poll to see how many people bought which one.
A little homework for those who are interested:
Remember I said my GAS strings elongated 1/16" when I had my R10 cocked for 3-1/2 hours in a hot blind. But what I didn't say was the cam timing did NOT change. I've seen this before with Archery Shack strings as well. So my homework question for you is this:
1. If the cam timing did not change but the ATA increased by 1/16", was the ATA change a result of JUST cable elongation or was it a result of BOTH cable and string elongation?
2. Furthermore, since the cables are 6-1/4" long and the string is 29-1/8" long, how much more would the string have to elongate than the cables to keep cam timing the same?
I'll share the latest actual string measurement as placed in my string jig under 100 pounds of tension later.
BTW, I know exactly what the string length measurement was because I had to reserve the center serving very soon after installation This was necessary because Ravin nocks will fool you and require a larger center serving diameter than one might expect to stop lateral nock movement.
However, if you specify the larger diameter center serving from GAS that's intended for U-nocks, you should be good using the Ravin orange nock.
I was under the impression the string length was only 29”, is the 29 1/8” recommended when using the 2 cable system or is my original assumption of just 29” wrong?2. Furthermore, since the cables are 6-1/4" long and the string is 29-1/8" long, how much more would the string have to elongate than the cables to keep cam timing the same?
With all due respect to Dorge and Dave with Vital Limits, my experience has revealed there's some folks who can build a higher quality set of Ravin cables than others.
Furthermore, these folks don't build a 6-1/4" cable but rather they build about a 12-3/8" cable, wrap the end tags down and prestretch with either a pneumatic cylinder or mechanical gear for a specified time at approx. 350 pounds of pressure.
They then serve the brass pulley end loop in the middle and fold the cable in to. Now you can take the strand tag ends and wrap around the unserved loop end enough to make a loop that is much easier to install over the cam lobe. Finally, the cable can be served nice and snug with preferably a very durable serving such as .015 Angel Majesty that holds it's roundness extremely well. In addition, with the use of X99 strand material, fuzziness or excessive abrasion at the unserved loop end goes away.
Now the next question has to be can they build them to the same length? Absolutely - with today's new string making equipment and an experienced string maker, they certainly can. Sure, you might have to add a 1/2 twist or even a full twist to the bottom or top cable to remove cam lean but that's a very, very simple thing to do if your cable end loops are served with something like .009 Power Grip so they can easily slip over the brass pulley.
Yes, these cables will stretch a little as the crossbow is shot but should settle in and be stable soon afterwards. But NO cable or string will remain stable and not stretch if you are hunting for a prolonged period in warm or humid weather which is becoming more the norm during the fall hunting season. Furthermore, hunting in a blind in warm weather just amplifies the problem.
Finally, let's talk cam rotation. Ravin designed their Helicoil system so they could tout 340 degrees of cam rotation. This means that when your ATA is 10.5" when the bow is uncocked, it should be very close to 6" when cocked. This is a Direct result of the exact length of the cables and the exact fixed attachment point at the brass pulleys combined, of course, with the cam design. Move the angle of these cables just a very small amount and you will no longer achieve a 6" cocked ATA which in turn means you won't achieve 340 degrees of cam rotation which in turn means you won't achieve the rated speed.
So in conclusion, if you want to be able to install your new set of cables faster with less frustration, then this single cable system might just be for you if you can afford it.
But if you're doing it to expect lass cable stretch over time, I have my doubts.
Also if you want more speed or at least the same speed, I have my doubts about that as well.
As far as the touted benefit of less vibration at the shot because of a single cable, it's probably true but I would imagine hardly noticeable by many. If you really want to remove Ravin vibration at the shot, try a recoil pad and multiple limb dampeners. I have that and there's no vibration at all at the shot but to be honest, there wasn't much to begin with.
In other words, I'd have to see some real results from customers who aren't associated with Vital Limits or Firenock before I would consider purchasing such an expensive system. Even then for experienced Ravin owners who know how to change out strings and tune their Ravin to perfection, I simply don't see serious benefit.
But as always, I could be wrong and don't want to take anything away form the good folks who spent a lot of time designing this innovative product.