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Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday I purchased a Barnett Whitetail Hunter PRO STR. This crossbow has the 187 pound draw weight limbs, trigger tech, brush arrow retainer and string stops. It is advertised to shoot a 380 grain arrow-point combination at 400 feet per second. It is supposedly compatible with the Barnett Crank Cocking Device.

This crossbow trigger tech system has zero trigger creep, the same as my other Barnett crossbows have with the old style trigger. No gain here.

One cam was out of time a wee bit, plus the cams needed leveling in the cocked position. No problem, being I have my own bow press. Tuning the crossbow, I got it to shoot a 410 grain arrow-point combination at 387, 388, 389 and 387.

Problems that I encountered and some can not be corrected:

1)installing the riser to the rail-stock. The string dampener system is part of the riser with no adjustments. It is a molded assembly with pipe tubing for the grooved rubbers. The groove in the rubbers sit high and do not center with the bowstring.
I am not able to use my Ten Point String Dampening System as the cables are too close to the riser in the uncocked position. The rail-stock is predrilled for Barnett's other string dampener system.

2)the scope rings are not the cap design, but are vertical. Making any scope adjustments when loosening the rings, throws the scope out of adjustment. These could be replaced with the cap style rings.

3)using my Bushnell AR223 3 x 12 x 40 Drop Zone scope with the side parallax, I ran out of adjustment trying to lower my shots shooting 17 1/2 feet in my shop. The crossbow is mounted in a high quality rifle jig with level bubbles on it. When I installed the crossbow in the jig, I put a level across the riser. The level was previously checked, swapping it end to end to see if I received the same reading which I had. A properly built level gives the same reading.

I removed the scope and put the level on the rail-stock. It was level. Next I put the level on the scope picatinny rail. Using the 9 inch level, the front of the picatinny rail was 3/8" lower than the back. Due to this, when I looked through the scope, my crossbow was tilted too high. Shimming a scope in this case will not work. This is where Ravin failed with their R9. They went for distance, tilting the picatinny rail down. Closer shooting, the scope could not be properly adjusted. No Ravin Jack at that time. The HHA was available then.

4)the stock is compatible with the Barnett Crank Cocking Device, but a few modifications are required. The string anchors have to follow next to the rail-stock, otherwise when reaching the fully cocked position they are forced outwards. The sled comes in two styles. One has vertical pulleys which you do not want. The other has horizontal pulleys. To made the correction for the string, I punched out the pulley axle and rerouted the anchor string the opposite way. The crimp is too large to just push the string through. The other way is to remove the string from the crank pulley, put when reinstalling the knot these string lengths have to match or your sled will not pull even.

Fitting the pulley ratchet assembly: due to a thinner stock, the two smaller allen head bolts would have to be cut shorter. The cover plug for the safety lever is too tight and would have to be filed down a bit. This crossbow stock is not designed to have the snap in finish crank covers that the Barnett Ghost 410 or Barnett Buck Commander BCXtreme 365 Ultra Lite has.

Due to the major manufacturing errors: string stops and picatinny rail, the crossbow will be returned to the place of purchase.

All the best.
 

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Wow ! Another satisfied customer. I can tell you from experience my buddy had one of their cheap @ss cranks on his raptor. I borrowed it and removed it and showed him how to use the cocking rope. Done with that junk . Then I bought the whitetail hunter pro ( Not the STR model) and it was riddled with issues as well. I just don't know enough about it to tell you how many flaws it actually has . Lucky I guess.
 
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Seems to be hit and miss. We have 2 and they were just fine. My wife didn't care for her scope and swapped that out but none of the issues you speak of, while we have all the things on the bow that you describe.
Next door neighbor got one last week and he loves it.

But you are not the only one that has claimed to have gotten bitten I guess.
 
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Think it boils down to the QC individual who assembles the package.

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Got to be something like that because it is all over the place as to customer satisfaction it seems.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here is an up date. For me to drive to the city to return the crossbow, then back home is 210 miles. I gave it quite a bit of thought and decided to tear the bow down. When cocking the crossbow, it did a lot of squeaking as well.

Who ever assembled the bow did not lube the ends of the limbs where they fit in to the riser and no lubricant on the limb rockers. These limbs can only be slid back about 1/2" unless one removes the limb caps. The Ghost 410, the limbs slide right out.
I removed the picatinny rail that holds the scope. I had to remove the brush holder and brush to remove an allen head bolt that holds the picatinny rail to the main trigger box cover. To remove the brush holder, I inserted a small, long thin flat screw driver in the slot at the front. On the outside of the brush holder there is another slot. Pushing forward on it with another flat blade screw driver and the cover pops out. In the cover there is a thin flat spring that applies downward pressure to the brush. The brush only fits one way as there is a small protrusion on the holder.

Once I got everything dismantled, I put shims in the front to raise the picatinny rail level. I had to replace the shorter allen head bolt that fits up underneath with a longer one due to the shim thickness (approximately 1/4" shim).

As I removed the string and cables, I tided the "Y" ends a certain way with tie wraps so I new which way to install them. I did not remove the single loop end of the cable from the cams. The string was carefully removed with out untwisting it.

Once I reassembled everything, checked the timing and cam level, due to my careful removal, nothing changed.

I am able to use my scope as one normally would.

I still have the string stops, to figure out a modification to the tubing angle so the stops will center on the bow string in the uncocked position. A possible solution is reshaping a new piece of tubing??

All the best.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Be happy to help if you want. Mine were the same way. There is a simple fix.

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I am open to any suggestions. The string stops are mounted on the riser and I am able to see a faint out line of an allen head bolt for each one that goes down from the top. This bolt is covered over by the material used to hold the short section of tubing. On the other end of the tubing is the groove style rubber string stop.

All the best.
 

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Be happy to help if you want. Mine were the same way. There is a simple fix.

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Get the Dremel out. After speaking with B Cross he does have a fix for the string stopper.

As I attempt to adjust my cam lean to lift my bow string I should increase more speed and reduce center serving wear/friction on my shooting rail.
IMG_3361.jpeg


Come on Barnett tighten up a bit on the QC. It's the little things that adds up to otherwise a great crossbow.

I just lost bid on a TS 390. I like that Crossbow!
 
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After tuning your Whitetail Hunter Pro STR what is your ATA measurement at cocked position.

Sorry to read about your issues but I know, you'll figure them out.
 

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I still have the string stops, to figure out a modification to the tubing angle so the stops will center on the bow string in the uncocked position. A possible solution is reshaping a new piece of tubing??

All the best.
Our string stops set high as do everyone's that I have heard of. It is (seemingly) always spoken of.
To date, it has not caused any wear on our bows and I have not heard of anyone getting wear.
So while I would like to hear about any mod that corrects this, I don't know as it will be a real issue.

Good luck.
 
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Be happy to help if you want. Mine were the same way. There is a simple fix.

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Please share!
 

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LA,

B Cross has taken his TS 390 completely apart and re-assembled. He does have a fix. It's more of taking the rubber stop assembly off the riser assembly, getting a Dremel and plane the riser area downward so the strong stopper assembly lowers the stopper tube/rubber tips meet the center of the string. He does one more thing in the process I need to better understand.. I haven't done it yet but is on my soon to be done list. Right now I"m going to fix my cam lean to rise my bow string 1/16" off the rail. This will extend the serving life on my strings and should increase speed plus eliminate to friction on the string serving sliding down the rial.

Both B Cross and BunnyRabbit are impressive technically working on Barnett Crossbows. Barnett's are not perfect but if you are willing to tinker on these bows (we shouldn't have to) they can be fixed to high performance standards in the area of fit and finish.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
After tuning your Whitetail Hunter Pro STR what is your ATA measurement at cocked position.

Sorry to read about your issues but I know, you'll figure them out.
Here is the required information plus more testing.
Axle to axle uncocked: 17 3/4"
Axle to axle cocked is: 12 3/4"

Decibel reading: no limb dampeners: 101.3, 100.6
Speed with 20" Barnett Custom Head Hunter 410 grain arrow-point combination: 389, 387 FPS.

Decibel reading with limb dampener set tight to the riser: 100.3, 99.8
Speed with 20" Barnett Custom Head Hunter 410 grain arrow-point combination: 390, 388 FPS.

I found very little difference and with the larger cams and shorter limbs, no point putting a limb dampener in between the riser and cam. Being I have extra limb dampeners, I will leave them on tight to the riser.

Th Ghost 410 has a 12 1/2" limb, whereas this crossbow has a 11" limb.

I found the brush has an awful amount of downward pressure making for a hard arrow insert the last inch to properly seat the arrow. With no arrow inserted, looking from the side there is approximately 1/8" clearance between the bottom of the brush and the rail. I am thinking the spring in the brush holder may be a shade to long for it to flatten out properly?? I will have to check this out.

I am used to the plastic arrow retainer where one can make the necessary downward pressure adjustment. The only advantage I see with the brush is less chance of breaking it like the plastic if one was not careful loading the arrow. I still am using the original plastic retainer that has thousands of shots on it, on the Ghost 410 and Buck Commander BCXtreme 365 Ultra Lite.

If a person was out hunting in wet, snowy weather and the brush got wet and froze, good by for the hunt.

In regards to the groove in the string stop rubber, the groove sits one string diameter high. I received your in formation in the "Conversation" in regards to shaving the riser 15 degree sloped forward to lower the string stop rubber setting.

All the best.
 

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I have 2 Barnett's and have been lucky....no problems and kill deer.
However, with all the new bows coming out and seemingly continued problems with Barnett, when I get a new bow it will be another brand. Guess so far I've rolled the dice and beat the odds. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Another up date: I dismantled the crossbow riser, loosening the limb cap bolts to be able to remove the limbs. Two limb rockers had to be gently pried up a bit to be able to add lithium grease. This crossbow is coated or dipped to give it a camo finish. Without the finish, everything would have had enough clearance. Everything still squawks due to too tight of a fit.
I am not able to properly level my cams when in the cocked position. If I do, being the cams are so large, in the uncocked position, the upper "Y" of the cable would rub on the cam. I swapped shims, putting them between the upper cam bearing and the limb to set the cam lower. The arrow point just matches the top edge of the rail. There is a shim between each pulley and the limb and one between each bearing and the limb. Instead of one shim, I now have three between the top bearing and the limb. As tuned, I have a string thickness clearance between the upper "Y" and the edge of the cam in the uncockd position.

Brush retainer: I removed the brush and filed a bit off the end of the flat spring. I then took pliers and flattened the spring a wee bit. This helped to remove a bit of downward pressure that the brush was exerting on the arrow when I went to load it. I plan to flatten the spring a bit more to relieve some more pressure.

Putting the shim under the front of the picatinny scope rail, leveled it out, so I can properly use my scope. Ravin had that problem with the R9. It was designed to shoot long distance, but at closer distances the scope ran out of adjustment. This was before Ravin came out with the Jack Plate. The HHA Optimizer was already on the market at this time.

Barnett's Crank Cocking Device does not work properly on this crossbow because the string anchors are not recessed deep enough to give the crank pulley string the proper needed clearance. This system is used on my other Barnett crossbows with no problem.

All the best.
 

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I was kinda weary of shaving the mount area down for the string stops for fear of harming the integrity of the riser. I worked out perfectly and besides there's enough meat on the riser to not be an issue. I also used marine grade lithium on reassembly pockets, cups etc. Even axles and shims.
What's that old saying "making sugar out of shit" lol. Love all my bows and will do whatever is possible to improve them. Thanks guys for all the likes and responses.
 

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Another up date: I dismantled the crossbow riser, loosening the limb cap bolts to be able to remove the limbs. Two limb rockers had to be gently pried up a bit to be able to add lithium grease. This crossbow is coated or dipped to give it a camo finish. Without the finish, everything would have had enough clearance. Everything still squawks due to too tight of a fit.
I am not able to properly level my cams when in the cocked position. If I do, being the cams are so large, in the uncocked position, the upper "Y" of the cable would rub on the cam. I swapped shims, putting them between the upper cam bearing and the limb to set the cam lower. The arrow point just matches the top edge of the rail. There is a shim between each pulley and the limb and one between each bearing and the limb. Instead of one shim, I now have three between the top bearing and the limb. As tuned, I have a string thickness clearance between the upper "Y" and the edge of the cam in the uncockd position.

Brush retainer: I removed the brush and filed a bit off the end of the flat spring. I then took pliers and flattened the spring a wee bit. This helped to remove a bit of downward pressure that the brush was exerting on the arrow when I went to load it. I plan to flatten the spring a bit more to relieve some more pressure.

Putting the shim under the front of the picatinny scope rail, leveled it out, so I can properly use my scope. Ravin had that problem with the R9. It was designed to shoot long distance, but at closer distances the scope ran out of adjustment. This was before Ravin came out with the Jack Plate. The HHA Optimizer was already on the market at this time.

Barnett's Crank Cocking Device does not work properly on this crossbow because the string anchors are not recessed deep enough to give the crank pulley string the proper needed clearance. This system is used on my other Barnett crossbows with no problem.

All the best.
Glad you are getting her back to a keep able usable xbow good move on the tear down.
 

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Luckily for Barnett a lot of their customers are savvy enough to fix their inferior work. Me I'm not . So when I have time to get mine to the shop to have them change out my cables and string (60x) I'm sure they will rake Barnett over the coals. They are a Ten Point dealer
 
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