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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Which wax do you consider to be the best?

A forum search didn't produce a discussion on the best bow string wax today. Although I did find some results on a Google search I decided to open a thread to discuss with CBN members.
Please explain why your choose is the best.

I have used several. For my first crossbow I used Horton bow string wax for many years and had little trouble maintaining a long life string using their wax. Well they went out of business.

Now after using a few supplied waxes which was supplied with new bows I finally came to buy Allen brand bow string wax. I found it to be much harder compound then I ever experienced. I put it aside and used others because of difficult application. Then one day it occurred to me to experiment with the Allen string wax.

This is what I did:

I decided to try melting the Allen wax to make easier to apply. That is what I did. I applied enough heat with a fire starter lighter to allow the wax to rub onto the string easier. Then I worked it in with my fingers.

After using Allen wax for a few months I found it to be much better than softer wax. Softer waxes tend to sling away in hot weather from the string or rub away leaving exposed fibers to heat up and wear.

Allen string wax stays with the string because it solidified after it's "melted" onto the string and engaged. The wax forms a barrier which last much longer than softer compounds.

I have applied it once then followed up later to check for wax condition. It really does stay like it became part of the string.

Perhaps many of you never tried this method.
 
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Ive always used the Allen brand Tex-Tite type wax, rubbing it onto the string and then melting it in with a hair dryer while rubbing it into the string with my fingers. Recently I bought some called String Snot and have used it lately. It's a soft wax but IMO it isn't nearly as good at keeping the string thoroughly waxed as the Allen wax does. Even though it's more of a pain using the Allen brand I'll be switching back.

And BTW, no need for negative posts about the hair dryer because Ive used it for many many years without the first problem.;)
 

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I use both the Black Lightning and the Scorpion Venom wax. The Venom has a little round piece of leather that you fold over and run it back and forth across the string heating it up and getting it into the threads.
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For both my Scorpyds,all I use is textite hard wax on my serving only. I use a piece of leather to heat the string and let the wax sink in to the serving.
I'm on my third year with original cables on My Orion 175 Extreme and about a hundred shots on a Collins double served string with very little wear.
My Grim Reaper is on it's second string and still has the original cables. Serving has no wear that I can see and about a hundred shots on it. I even forgot to decock it and in the cold late season hunted all day in 12 degree temps the following day and shot a target at quitting time at thirty yards and it was dead on.
Just my way I do things on advice from a guy that really knows Scorpyds….
 

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I have been testing a wax made in house using pure silicone and 2 micron teflon powder. Currently I have someone testing it to see what he thinks then I am going to be sending out samples to get a broader look at it.

I will also be sending out a unique rail lube that is applied like car wax, let dry then buffed off. It is a combo of pure silicone, 2 micron teflon powder and synthetic wax.

Im not sure how of if I will market it, it would be tough to keep the price down.
 

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For both my Scorpyds,all I use is textite hard wax on my serving only. I use a piece of leather to heat the string and let the wax sink in to the serving.
I'm on my third year with original cables on My Orion 175 Extreme and about a hundred shots on a Collins double served string with very little wear.
My Grim Reaper is on it's second string and still has the original cables. Serving has no wear that I can see and about a hundred shots on it. I even forgot to decock it and in the cold late season hunted all day in 12 degree temps the following day and shot a target at quitting time at thirty yards and it was dead on.
Just my way I do things on advice from a guy that really knows Scorpyds….
The key is wax and lots of it worked in just as you have explained. I have gotten a lot of strings in to reserve for the testing we are doing and only 1 showed any sign of wax
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ive always used the Allen brand Tex-Tite type wax, rubbing it onto the string and then melting it in with a hair dryer while rubbing it into the string with my fingers. Recently I bought some called String Snot and have used it lately. It's a soft wax but IMO it isn't nearly as good at keeping the string thoroughly waxed as the Allen wax does. Even though it's more of a pain using the Allen brand I'll be switching back.

And BTW, no need for negative posts about the hair dryer because Ive used it for many many years without the first problem.;)
Using a hair dryer is the same as using a heat gun with a little less heat. Anyway to get it done.
I have those options but fire lighter/butane lighter was handy so I went that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I like the ScorpionVenom liquid Polymeric wax for string. Just don't put it on serving. I like a little Black Lightning for serving
As for serving many years I used Horton rail lube just to reduce the friction from the latches. Last a long time.
 
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