Just make sure it has silicon in it for synthetic string materials. Regular bees wax isn't going to work. Polymeric wax is probably the best I.M.O.
The key is wax and lots of it worked in just as you have explained. I have gotten a lot of strings in to reserve for the testing we are doing and only 1 showed any sign of waxFor both my Scorpyds,all I use is textite hard wax on my serving only. I use a piece of leather to heat the string and let the wax sink in to the serving.
I'm on my third year with original cables on My Orion 175 Extreme and about a hundred shots on a Collins double served string with very little wear.
My Grim Reaper is on it's second string and still has the original cables. Serving has no wear that I can see and about a hundred shots on it. I even forgot to decock it and in the cold late season hunted all day in 12 degree temps the following day and shot a target at quitting time at thirty yards and it was dead on.
Just my way I do things on advice from a guy that really knows Scorpyds….
Using a hair dryer is the same as using a heat gun with a little less heat. Anyway to get it done.Ive always used the Allen brand Tex-Tite type wax, rubbing it onto the string and then melting it in with a hair dryer while rubbing it into the string with my fingers. Recently I bought some called String Snot and have used it lately. It's a soft wax but IMO it isn't nearly as good at keeping the string thoroughly waxed as the Allen wax does. Even though it's more of a pain using the Allen brand I'll be switching back.
And BTW, no need for negative posts about the hair dryer because Ive used it for many many years without the first problem.
As for serving many years I used Horton rail lube just to reduce the friction from the latches. Last a long time.I like the ScorpionVenom liquid Polymeric wax for string. Just don't put it on serving. I like a little Black Lightning for serving