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I recently bought one and needing some advice. When I put the vanes on,they look great,but after they dry the front tip is raising up?

Prepping each arrow by removing old vanes,scraping and sanding old glue off,then cleaning with acetone.

I'm using Vanetec vanes and gorilla super glue on Spinal Tapp arrows.I put just a few drops of glue randomly,then spread with toothpick. I let them dry about 3 minutes before removing the clamp,then add a drop of glue on the front of each vane.

Getting a little frustrated,since I have redone 6 arrows 3 times with same result!

Any tips would be appreciated please because I obviously have no idea what i'm doing!!!
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I have a Bitz that I modified with a compound angle cut to hold it perfectly level with the clamp set at 12 o’clock. I also took a white nylon washer and drilled it out to hold a bolt and cut a notch for the clamp and epoxied it to the frame. This ensures the shaft stays levels and I don’t get any runs..

I use a Bob Smith watery thin super glue that I get off fleabay. This stuff is really really thin and will sneak across the table and bite you!

Make sure the clamp is free of any glue build up on the inside. I load a vane and let it stick out about an 1/8” below the clamp edge. I do the Dorge swipe and wipe with acetone and a Q-tip. I hold the clamp upside down and at a 45º. I hold the bottle of superglue at the top and only allow a small bubble come out the spout. I touch it to the top edge of the vane’s web and let the bubble run down the full length, and then flip it to 45º in the other direction to let the bubble run back the other direction and it usually dissipates.

I turn the clamp over and drop it straight down onto the shaft and push the clamp down thru the 1/8” of vane that was still sticking out. I hold it there for about 12 seconds and then let it set for a couple minutes, remove the clamp and rotate the knob for the next vane.

Since I’ve been doing this they come out “Jerry like”. I believe the secret is 100% coverage in the web and the watery thin glue helps do that. Before I flip it to set it down there is no glue outside the vane’s web.



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I have a Bitz that I modified with a compound angle cut to hold it perfectly level with the clamp set at 12 o’clock. I also took a white nylon washer and drilled it out to hold a bolt and cut a notch for the clamp and epoxied it to the frame. This ensures the shaft stays levels and I don’t get any runs..

I use a Bob Smith watery thin super glue that I get off fleabay. This stuff is really really thin and will sneak across the table and bite you!

Make sure the clamp is free of any glue build up on the inside. I load a vane and let it stick out about an 1/8” below the clamp edge. I do the Dorge swipe and wipe with acetone and a Q-tip. I hold the clamp upside down and at a 45º. I hold the bottle of superglue at the top and only allow a small bubble come out the spout. I touch it to the top edge of the vane’s web and let the bubble run down the full length, and then flip it to 45º in the other direction to let the bubble run back the other direction and it usually dissipates.

I turn the clamp over and drop it straight down onto the shaft and push the clamp down thru the 1/8” of vane that was still sticking out. I hold it there for about 12 seconds and then let it set for a couple minutes, remove the clamp and rotate the knob for the next vane.

Since I’ve been doing this they come out “Jerry like”. I believe the secret is 100% coverage in the web and the watery thin glue helps do that. Before I flip it to set it down there is no glue outside the vane’s web.



View attachment 185140 View attachment 185141 View attachment 185142
This^^^
Nearly identical to what I do, but I use generic liquid super glue (dollar store) in sealed tubes.
 

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This is what I use Cal. If you decide to use some, have the wife standing nearby with 911 on speed dial - this stuff has a way of finding your fingers without you even trying.

 

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I don’t go to nearly the extent that TP does ;) , but I do lightly sand the base of the vane. I use Gorilla gel. I also put my thumbs below the arrow shaft, fingers above the clamp, and put down pressure on the clamp for a count of 20 for each vane, then release. Same vanes you show, no problem. Different ways to skin the feline, I suppose.
 

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This is what I use Cal. If you decide to use some, have the wife standing nearby with 911 on speed dial - this stuff has a way of finding your fingers without you even trying.

Thanks for the link Tim.
 

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I don’t go to nearly the extent that TP does ;) , but I do lightly sand the base of the vane. I use Gorilla gel. I also put my thumbs below the arrow shaft, fingers above the clamp, and put down pressure on the clamp for a count of 20 for each vane, then release. Same vanes you show, no problem. Different ways to skin the feline, I suppose.
Same here except I do use Jerry's Glue, I think the main thing with the Bitz, once your prep'd properly, is that down pressure JOE PA mentioned. I still use my bitz clamp, but going to the Aerovane jig makes this much better and easier to keep that tight fit when you let go,, the Bitz in my opinion is a bit lacking in magnet strength,, something the Aerovane jig excels at, as well as everything else!

I know using Blazers, Fusions, SK's, and the low profile vanes Burky uses, you cannot pull the flanges off the shaft, even a year later, you might rip the vanes off, but the glue flange will be intact on the shaft! I attribute most of that to what JOE PA said about holding tension, I go overboard and count to 30 slowly before letting up and leaving the jig keep tension for minute or two while I sand and clean the next vane for installation. This is the best glue I've found in over 30 years fletching arrows, aluminum or carbon.
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I clean my shafts with alcohol, use a primer pen on my vanes, use Tapp-Nation's fletching glue for all my arrows. I've never had 1 vane tear off or start to fall off! I've torn a few vanes trying to get an arrow that was buried into my old bag target. When the vanes tore, the base was still intact and glued solid to the shaft! Good luck!


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That usually happens when the glue is not compatible with the material in the vane. If you have that problem it will be with Red vanes because of the dye. Try a different vane or glue. AAE MAXBOND is a great glue.
 

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I think you need to start over on jig setup

It would be best to call me because we need to walk through setup and I need more pics
 
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Looks like you have your front helical dial a tad too far over. Put a shaft in place and then mount a vane with no glue on the shaft and turn it and look down the front of the shaft and see if the vane is laying flat against the shaft at the tip. If it is not loosen the front adjustment screw and turn it slowly until the vane makes good contact and then tighten it back down.
I am assuming that the new Bitzs have the 2 adjustment screws like my 45 year old one does.
 

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Looks like you have your front helical dial a tad too far over. Put a shaft in place and then mount a vane with no glue on the shaft and turn it and look down the front of the shaft and see if the vane is laying flat against the shaft at the tip. If it is not loosen the front adjustment screw and turn it slowly until the vane makes good contact and then tighten it back down.
I am assuming that the new Bitzs have the 2 adjustment screws like my 45 year old one does.
Yes they have the same adjustments but there is a lot more he needs to do

It looks to me that the jig is setup almost completely right of center
 
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Yes they have the same adjustments but there is a lot more he needs to do

It looks to me that the jig is setup almost completely right of center
That ain’t gonna work.
 

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Been using Bohning fletching glue for years. No problems with Blazer or other vanes using Bitz, Multi/Mono and Arizona fletchers.

I agree with what Robert said.
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Do you always get that smokey rainbow film on your shafts? The superglue is probably making a static reaction (think CSI techs putting an item in a glass box to raise fingerprints) and when I used the regular type superglue, I did it under a ceiling fan to keep that from happening.

 

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I had a similar problem using Dorge’s fletching jig. So I ran a line along a blank shaft with a silver sharpie and adjusted the magnets so that the middle of the vane crossed the line.
 
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