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Discussion Starter #1
I know with my vertical bow that every time I am done shooting it, I wax the strings. This should be done with the new crossbow too, right?

What kind of wax do you guys/gals use to keep you string longer? I use Bohning Archery, Tex-Tite wax on my vertical bow right now, can I use this with the crossbow?

Any comments on how you personaly maintenance your crossbows?

Thanks,

Anthony
 

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Boy !! :)

You'll get differing comments on this one:p Boo is a string man and He'll give you some advice. The differing opinions center around string center servings. I use Saunders (old but good) and U-V-Block by Atsko/Sno-Seal with beeswax but I don't use it on center servings. Seems to soften the center serving and increases separation.
 

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I use the text tite and rail lube by Horton, but the wax ring from the toilet setting seal stuff is good. Beewax a a discount and mass quantities. I'm not a fanatic about wax. I just use whatever is handy.
 

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I wonder if ear wax would work

:ack2:

Rail lube = Jigaloo spray from Home Depot and Wal-Mart. Non-greasy and slick as an eel's butt.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
so how often do you guys use the rail lube? On Hortons website it says to use some every 5-20 shots.
 

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After trying four different string wax's...I've settled on the Bohning, Seal-Tite wax.

I don't wax / lube the rail...just put a "little" wax on the center serving.
On the Darton's and the Horton reCon, there is so little string load...I don't worry about the friction of the string vs. the track doing any harm to either the serving, the string or the track.

Some of the rest, just add a little as required if the serving looks/feels dry.

As far as the rest of the string...same as above...if it looks / feels dry...I put some on the whole string/cable.
This takes way more than 15 or 20 shots for the string to dry up, at least with this wax.

Mike
 

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The string should be waxed with some regularity to stop the string material from abrading against each other and prevent water or moisture from getting in. The string material under the serving gets the most punishment so it should be waxed as well. Anyone that sees serving separation because of waxing has serving that is too loose. The cure for that is a better serving. The way around it is to not wax it but serving life(actual wear or tearing) is shorter than it could be with wax and a better serving. A place where many forget is the string loops and it is really important as well. If you wax the serving you do not have to wax the deck.
Personally I like Dalton's but anything with silicone will do just fine. Some factory waxes are is just wax and crisco and well too.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
.....string material under the serving gets the most punishment so it should be waxed as well.....

...forget is the string loops and it is really important...
Could somone please explain to me what the serving and the string loops are?
 

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Serving is the thread, string or monofilament material that is wound around the string at certain points to keep it from wearing. The serving where the arrow nocks is called the center serving. Out on the ends of the string, are loops that fit over the bow ends or cams, these are the string loops. The loops on an endless loop bowstring are served too, as is part of the bowstring adjacent to the loops. This serving is called the loop serving and end serving respectively.
The ends of Flemish strings are twisted and woven with the bowstring material itself so, while they have loops, they are not served. Flemish string does have center serving, however.
 

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Boo said:
A place where many forget is the string loops and it is really important as well.
How do you wax the string loops???? What's the easiest way to do this right???? Thanks!!!

Scott Woody
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I put some wax on the string where it would be resting on the cam when it is cocked.

Then I cocked the bow and put some wax on the other side of the string that usually rests on the cam when the bow is not cocked.
Make sure to rub the wax in until it gets hot, I didnt know to do this until I read the directions for the wax again.
 

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Yea.....not hard at all to end up with little blisters on your fingers!

Use gloves or a very thin piece of leather for protection if you have "thin
skin"!

It actually takes a little work to get the wax rubbed well into the string....not just the outside of the string.

Mike
 

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I just purchased a lubricant & conditioner from K-Mart called ''Black Lightning.'' W/ grafite & silicone. Would this be good for lubing the rail and waxing the string and servings. I have an Explorer 150.
 

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what about liquid silicone? I have a few can's of it in the garage and have used it on other stuff and it is Slick
 

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Mid -

I think there should be some "solid" there to not only act as a lubricant...but act as a cushion for all the pounding taking place within each filiment of the string.

Mike
 

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Mike said:
Mid -

I think there should be some "solid" there to not only act as a lubricant...but act as a cushion for all the pounding taking place within each filiment of the string.

Mike
I was thinking of trying it on the rail, not the string?
 
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