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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As a first-time crossbow shooter, I have spent the last 2 1/2 weeks getting geared up and otherwise getting ready for deer bow season. The process has been a total fiasco, and while I am sure it has been at least partially due to my unfamiliarity with crossbows, there are product issues as well. I hope someone can help as Centerpoint has gone silent and apparently will be of no help. I will try to keep the story short. The first issue was with the scope. As a rifle accuracy nut I tried to fine-tune accuracy with the Amped 415. Lesson learned--do not try to fine tune the Amped 415 scope, unless you can take several shots afterward to make it "settle". I learned this when a 1-inch adjustment missed a 12x25 foot shed. I stopped adjusting the scope and it shoots much better. The Amped 415 has a 200# draw and was difficult to cock, not from the pounds which I can handle, but from the length of draw. After building a small stand, I could cock it fairly easily. But I had a crank on back order, and I was pretty happy when it came in five days ago. However, the result of using the crank is that will not cock, and I get stuck on the dry fire levers. With the crank I have gone through the entire process about 50 times, to no avail. After each "dry fire" I have released pressure using the crank, taken it off safe, released the dryfire levers while pulling and holding the trigger. Unless I am wrong, this should be starting as if it had been fired. Yesterday, finally in my deer stand four days after opening, I tried for two hours to get it to cock. I finally gave up and went home, drenched in sweat (91 degrees). Initially I thought the issue was that the crank was not tracking true (which it does not) and one of the arms hit the safety pushing it to safe. After monitoring that closely, and trying to keep the sled centered, the problem is not resolved. I have pulled the crank looser, and tighter, but neither solve the problem. The second click never is heard, and the trigger is not grabbing the bow string, yet for some reason the safety is being pushed to the on position. I have reverted back to the rope pull, but even that does not work now. I apologize for the length of this question, but it is frustrating. I am on the verge of missing the entire deer season, and I am getting no help from Centerpoint, nor from the retailer. Any suggestions? Do I need to start over with a different bow and different manufacturer? thanks in advance for any suggestions.
 

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Hate to hear of your misfortune especially during the season. Sort of sounds more like a trigger box issue than crank issue if your rope won't work either. You need to call CP directly to explain what's happening, could be something simple if you are lucky. Good luck and please keep us informed on your outcome. I am almost ready to buy one... might put it on hold for a while.
 

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I just picked an AMPED 415 yesterday.. I have NOT SHOT it YET... but the FIRST THING I did was SHORTEN the Cocking ROPE.. I do this on ALL my crossbows. Its makes cocking them SOOOO Much easier because you dont have to pull up So High! What I do I make it just long enough so when I put one hook on and wrap it around back of crossbow and down to the other side , I have to pull up string some to hook it. Then I also store it that way. I never misplace my rope cocker and its ready to go! It make cocking SOOOO Much easier.... Give it a whirl. Just untie one Knot and tie it shorter. Dont cut off excess until you are SURE .

As far as scope... Not sure how a ONE inch adjustment made you miss a 12x25 building... I have not messed with this scope yet, but I most likely will swap it out for something better..
 

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Usually "kit" crossbow packages comes with scopes that are less-to-be-desired and most go ahead and replace them pretty quick. That aint saying the one you have wont get you by so if youre dedicated on keeping it go back first and check and tighten all screws holding on the scope rail, the screws holding the scope rings to the rail, then the screws holding the scope into the rings. (Now might be a good time to apply blue Loctite too). Shoot at 5-10 yards to get you onto the target then zero top reticle at 20 yards. Go from there....

As already stated, shorten your cocking rope as described. When cocking with the rope cocker give a pretty good pull throughout the length of the pull. Don't just barely pull the rope until you hear it clicks. (You could be short pulling setting your bowstring between the anti-dry fire and the trigger latches. Ive done this before.) Give a firm pull all the way. IF the trigger wont latch the string (with safety off when pulling) then contact CP by phone. Explain the situation and see what they tell you to do. Hope they get you going.:)
 

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Just pull it all the way back "with authority" until it stops.;):)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Okay, I just got off the phone with Centerpoint and have the "problem" resolved, although I have not fired it again yet. I wanted to do this update first as I know my original post created uncertainty for some, and the issue is on me, not the company or the Amped 415, When you apply the rope or crank to cock it you may or may not hear two clicks. Pull the drawstring up firmly to the end of the draw and let go slowly. As you release the tension, if the drawstring is caught by the two silver levers that is where it should be and it is cocked, and on safe. I thought those were the anti-dryfire levers, but that is not the case. Looking at the manual again, I see the "levers" are called the "safety catch". So, all the while, with rope or the crank, it was cocking correctly. While I feel like a real dummy, as a newcomer, I needed a more detailed explanation of how it all works. You can understand 90% of it, but the missing 10% can be a problem. If you buy online these days, or from a big-box retail store, that instruction is not available. Here is what I have learned from all this, including comments posted above. This is lengthy, but I want to give some detail, with the hope that it saves someone some aggravation.
1. I like the Centerpoint Amped 415 and would buy it again;
2. The crank for it is very nicely machined and, it turns out, has been working properly, and I would buy it again;
3. The Scope. I will eventually buy a better one, but this one may suffice for a while. However, the errant shot that missed the entire shed (see my earlier post) was probably due to a loose screw. The rig was put together by the crew at the store. I asked if the screws and bolts had been torqued, they did not know what that was. But while I checked for tightness with a screwdriver when I got home, that was insufficient. This was another wave of stupidity on my part as I have a Fat Wrench and have always torqued my rifles and scopes, but there are no recommended torque levels in the manual, so I mistakenly let that slide. After the errant shot, I discovered a slightly loose screw and at that time I torqued all the bolts and screws I could get at, 15# on the screws (e.g. the scope) and 20# on the bolts (these numbers were guesses on my part). They were not even close to those levels. I still have not seen any recommendations for this--they need to be in the manual. Centerpoint recommends tapping the turrets slightly with the rubber part of a screwdriver handle after an adjustment;
4. Accuracy. I took 6 shots at 37 yards the day before heading out to the deer stand and they measured 2 1/4 inches. That level of accuracy was sufficient for me as I doubt I will shoot when further away this year. The fact that they were an inch to the left and 1/2 inch low will have to be ok. I am stuck with the 37 yards as that is the maximum distance I can get in my yard, safely. I sure as the devil am not going to mess with the scope adjustments any more until after deer season;
5. I am learning what to use for bolts and broadheads. First however, I could not even get the target tips out of the target and had to turn to "the stronger hands people" to get them out. I tried several remedies, such as putting rail wax on the bolts, but that only made them penetrate more deeply. Imagine what it would be like with broadheads. Finally, after doing this too many times, I was directed to a "Blackout" target @ about $129 from Bass Pro Shops. This has worked much better, although the broadheads do penetrate into the fletching. They still come out rather easily. This was with the Slick Tricks, 100 grain. Bolts were Piledrivers, 442 grains. The latter is heavy and will contribute to a bit more drop than the company originally would suggest (or the scope elevation marks in the reticle would suggest), but CP said that bolt weight was fine, but that they would penetrate game better. Yes, targets too.
5. I purchased a hard case. The 415 fits, tightly, into a Plano Spire which is inexpensive. If I ever get the scope set, I do not want to bounce it around during transportation;
6. When I first reviewed xbows I liked the fact that people were "tricking out" the 415, upgrading and adding onto the bones that are the Amped 415. While my view had been wavering, I now firmly understand why that support has been there. While I understand this is still an inexpensive (reviewers often use the word cheap) crossbow, I am hoping this one will be a good value. It certainly has the power to justify tricking them out. For me, I did not feel I should spend big bucks for my first xbow, but will upgrade along the way, and maybe purchase a higher end product later. Of course, hindsight tells me I could perhaps have avoided some issues I have had to deal with, although that mostly would have been achieved through full interaction with a full-line archery shop, not from reading the manual. Finally, thanks for those that have posted above, or on other threads. I expect to learn a lot from you in the future as I get further along this crossbow journey!! Now,if someone could rid the South of chiggers, ticks and mosquitoes I would be even more ready to hit the woods.
 

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Glad to hear that CP answered all your questions and that youre back into the game.;):)
 

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i'll tell you what.. I have two bolts from the supplied that fly like BULLETS.. I'm extremely impressed with the accuracy so far out to 43 yards.. I can stack those two bolts.. The third one.. GARBAGE... discharge bolt.. I will get myself some REALLY GOOD BOLTS and continue to play.. I would love to put a Better scope on it but so far so good with the supplied.. for 313.75 out the door, I can't be more pleased! And This is coming from a guy who has shot scorpyd, parker and excalibur.. i still have my beast exocet 200 from about 15 years ago... LOUD< BIG< VIBRATION but it can stack em... oh and slow lol
 

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i'll tell you what.. I have two bolts from the supplied that fly like BULLETS.. I'm extremely impressed with the accuracy so far out to 43 yards.. I can stack those two bolts.. The third one.. GARBAGE... discharge bolt.. I will get myself some REALLY GOOD BOLTS and continue to play.. I would love to put a Better scope on it but so far so good with the supplied.. for 313.75 out the door, I can't be more pleased! And This is coming from a guy who has shot scorpyd, parker and excalibur.. i still have my beast exocet 200 from about 15 years ago... LOUD< BIG< VIBRATION but it can stack em... oh and slow lol
$313.75??? Where
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sportsman's Guide advertises that price for members.

Yesterday, after a second flier following a small adjustment in the CP scope that came with the Amped 415 (see my opening note to this thread above), I decided I could no longer afford to shoot with it at a target or game. I did not have much time to research scopes in depth, I found a Nikon Prostaff P3 3x32 Crossbow Scope at Academy for $159, mounted it last night, sighted it in this morning and was hunting by 2 p.m. This was more than I had hoped to pay, but I have confidence that I will not have fliers because of the scope anymore.
 

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I just got to this thread and it's good to see that Hunter401 has it going the right way. Almost everything he's experienced is "learning curve" related and not untypical for a new xbow shooter. FWIW, dollar for dollar, the Amped 415 (Patriot too) look to be the best offering from CenterPoint yet. If it proves to be as durable as the Sniper, it will grow to be a very, very popular xbow.

I'll echo two things: the scope and arrows should be upgraded. Don't go cheap on arrows and the best scope buy IMHO is the $275 Ravin "Take-Off" that you can buy from Wyvern for $80. Send that Nikon back ;) High quality, LTW, rings and lens covers included. Now, it's a speed compensating scope with reticles above and below dead center so there's a learning opportunity here as well. Sighting it in is unique to a xbow scope but there's lot's of material and videos to reference on how to do it.

Enjoy it and get some Permethrin and try a Thermacel.
 

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What is the difference between the Amped 415 and the Patriot?
I have yet to handle one in person but have spoken to an owner. It looks like the difference is nothing more than a name and related labels. Probably just an attempt to have a unique product (in name only) for Walmart. I do see that the Patriot packages come with a crank as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I paid about $75 for the Amped 415 crank, as it was not included--actually was not available when I purchased the Amped 415. It works well and I found it a welcome addition. Even if the 200# draw is not a problem, the length of pull may be (my case).
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks, TX. Your comments are very helpful, and I have already ordered the scope. Now, I hope I can return the Nikon. You mention the "learning curve" aspect and, believe me, I could write a book on it, with a lot of material for "Larry the Cable Guy". But I am getting there, slowly adding to the distance at which I am comfortable when hunting. If you purchase the Amped 415 (or Patriot probably) I would replace the scope before shooting the first bolt. Not doing that cost me 3 weeks of aggravation trying to sight it in, at which point I gave up. The Amped 415 appears to shoot well, so far at least. With 442 gr. 20" Piledrivers and 100 gr Slick Trick Standard broadheads, my last 3-shot target test gave me an under 1 inch group at 20 yards, and a 1 1/2 inch group at 30 yards. However, I did a lot of experimenting before that where I selected bolts/broadheads that actually shot the same. That is, it was not based merely upon weighing the bolt or broadhead.
I agree and have the Permethrin and Thermacel, although I have not yet had to use the latter. Agaiin, Thanks TX and others that have commented--you greatly help those of us just getting started.
 

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Thanks, TX. Your comments are very helpful, and I have already ordered the scope. Now, I hope I can return the Nikon. You mention the "learning curve" aspect and, believe me, I could write a book on it, with a lot of material for "Larry the Cable Guy". But I am getting there, slowly adding to the distance at which I am comfortable when hunting. If you purchase the Amped 415 (or Patriot probably) I would replace the scope before shooting the first bolt. Not doing that cost me 3 weeks of aggravation trying to sight it in, at which point I gave up. The Amped 415 appears to shoot well, so far at least. With 442 gr. 20" Piledrivers and 100 gr Slick Trick Standard broadheads, my last 3-shot target test gave me an under 1 inch group at 20 yards, and a 1 1/2 inch group at 30 yards. However, I did a lot of experimenting before that where I selected bolts/broadheads that actually shot the same. That is, it was not based merely upon weighing the bolt or broadhead.
I agree and have the Permethrin and Thermacel, although I have not yet had to use the latter. Agaiin, Thanks TX and others that have commented--you greatly help those of us just getting started.
You really don't need the thermacel if you have sprayed down all your clothes including your hat with the permethrin. I can't remember the last time I had a mosquito bite when hunting.
 
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