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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I finally caved in and did something to correct what I feel is the only shortcoming this bow has... that wicked long trigger. Once I got the trigger apart and determined how all the parts interact with one another, I set about the best way to shorten the pull. I was not making any efforts at weight reduction. I’ve learned that a reasonably short and decently crisp trigger is perfectly acceptable for my hunting needs, even if a bit heavy. What I did was to drill and tap a hole on the underneath side of the barrel, just between the rear mounting screw hole and the slot that is machined for access to the trigger linkage. The hole I drilled points straight toward the backside of the trigger sear, so that a long screw will press the sear the same direction pressing the trigger rocks it. Trial and error was used to determine the screw length. This screw was the same diameter and pitch as the stock bolts. I had cut the head off it and cut a slot for a flat screwdriver. It was installed with a tad bit of loctite. I relieved the inside of the stock a bit so the screw could protrude out of the rail piece a bit and the stock would still contact the rail fully when assembled.
inside the trigger box, I simply shortened the trigger plunger so that, with the trigger travel set short, the safety would still engage, but not so short as to allow the trigger to release the seat with the safety on. I simply ground the plunger and worked the trigger sear/hammer manually till I got the sear closer to release but still solidly engaged. Once I got it to that point, I reassembled everything and tested function.This is what worked for me and provided an awesome trigger. I recognize that not everyone has the same level of mechanical aptitude as I do, or perhaps even enough to pull this off by themselves, but for the money conscious who are also not wanting to spend a pile of money, or not wanting to be without their crossbow for any length of time, it worked well. It is definitely a do at your own risk modification and will void your warranty for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When strings wear out I would go with GAS strings really made a deference
I’ve already been contemplating purchase of a set to have in hand for it as well as my Sniper Elite 370. The Sniper seems to be even harder on center serving. What characteristics of the bow did it improve?
 

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It gave the bow a different tone, it was quieter the speed was the same, I have close to 700 shots on strings and they look the same as when I put them on, the quality of how well made these strings are made is top notch, When I installed the strings did not have to do no adjusting, timing marks centered up and no came lean at all, still the same, no serving separation this is my first set of gas strings I've had 2 sets of factory strings on the bow, the gas strings has about the same amount of shots as both of the others, I really watch the cables on these bows and if you start getting cam lean with the factory strings you need to replace them. The Gas strings made the bow more solid
 

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shaping latches also gives bit shorter pull but it also softens that sharp feel where you know its going off, took me a bit to get used when it goes, also very much NOT recommended for anyone

just to be clear, it doesnt take much shaping to make it feel totally different 0.1-0.2" could be too much
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So far mine has been working very well, but I haven’t got to shoot as much as I’d like to. I find it disappointing that they didn’t just make a reasonable trigger for these from the start. As easy as they are made better, it wouldn’t be difficult for them to simply dimension the parts to where the trigger didn’t suck. I get the whole “product liability” issue, but it’s not like we are asking for our crossbows to be like an Anschütz two stage target trigger (.39 lbs).
 
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