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Pretty frustrated... Received my new Spinal Tapps , the weights/numbers look pretty good. Didn't have much time but wanted to get arrows in targets and see what all the fuss was about STs. Put a target point on one and sighted it in at 20 yards, went to 30 and was ok too, got dark came in for the night. Went back out last night and used another arrow due to the fletching on first arrow used getting mess up going too deep in a target. Second arrow was 4/10ths gr different. Had to sight it in all over, got 20 & 30 yard pretty good, got dark came in. Go back out late today and had to make more adjustments to the same arrow!
I thought I will likely have some fine tuning to do anyway so I put the broadhead on and was on @ 20. Was an inch + low at 30, adjusted the speed ring & was about 1/2 high, no worries. Go to 40 and was about 2.5 inches low. Adjusted speed ring three times with no change in poi... Packed up and came in.
Cams are spot on, all set screws, etc are tight. Shooting from a Lead Sled. Breathing & trigger pressure good (I shoot guns competitively).
Just to double check, if poi is too low turn speed ring towards lower number, if poi is too high adjust speed ring toward higher number correct? I understand the 20 yrd is adjusted by the turrets, not speed ring.
Question is when I turn the speed ring for a specific yardage does it adjust all yardages simultaneously? If so how will it ever sync it all up?
Has to be me, what am I missing?

TIA!
WTZ
 

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Sight in at 20, go to 40 and adjust the third aiming point down for speed. Yes If your hittinh speed it up, if your hitting low slow it down. Now your dead on at 20 and 40, your 30 will be plenty close enough and 50 will be close enough!

Now if it were me, with any bow shooting over 380 fps or about their, I would sight in for 30 yards, you will never shoot out of the kill zone aiming dead on out to 25 yards! Then move to 50 yards, and set the speed ring for the third aiming point. once set 30 and 50 are perfect, so your 40 and 60 are plenty good enough and on well inside the kill zone, usually within less than 1/2".

But doing what you are doing now, are shooting at least 3 arrows each time to prove your outcome? If not, your just guessing!

with that bow if your having issues like that it is not the bow or the arrows! Could be the scope,, but until you take three shots each time you change anything for a particular yardage or aiming point, you are not getting concrete feedback from what you did.
 

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I spent a lot of time being really frustrated when I first got my “skinny” xbow. I would get close , come back the next day and have to sight it in again. I was also shooting from a sled and tried several different makes of arrows.

I finally read about putting a bubble level on the scope. The level completely fixed my problem. If you have a narrow bow without a level, that could be your issue. My groups tightened right up after I put the level on the scope.

I was new to narrow bows and didn’t realize how much being slightly canted affected the poi.
 

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Pretty frustrated... Received my new Spinal Tapps , the weights/numbers look pretty good. Didn't have much time but wanted to get arrows in targets and see what all the fuss was about STs. Put a target point on one and sighted it in at 20 yards, went to 30 and was ok too, got dark came in for the night. Went back out last night and used another arrow due to the fletching on first arrow used getting mess up going too deep in a target. Second arrow was 4/10ths gr different. Had to sight it in all over, got 20 & 30 yard pretty good, got dark came in. Go back out late today and had to make more adjustments to the same arrow!
I thought I will likely have some fine tuning to do anyway so I put the broadhead on and was on @ 20. Was an inch + low at 30, adjusted the speed ring & was about 1/2 high, no worries. Go to 40 and was about 2.5 inches low. Adjusted speed ring three times with no change in poi... Packed up and came in.
Cams are spot on, all set screws, etc are tight. Shooting from a Lead Sled. Breathing & trigger pressure good (I shoot guns competitively).
Just to double check, if poi is too low turn speed ring towards lower number, if poi is too high adjust speed ring toward higher number correct? I understand the 20 yrd is adjusted by the turrets, not speed ring.
Question is when I turn the speed ring for a specific yardage does it adjust all yardages simultaneously? If so how will it ever sync it all up?
Has to be me, what am I missing?

TIA!
WTZ
Sight in the crosshair that is in the center of your scope using turrets. It will probably be 40 or 50 yds. Turn speed ring to what you think your bow is shooting first. Come back and shoot 20 yards. If you hit high turn the speed down till you are dead on. If you hit low turn the speed up. The rest of the yardages should now be on. When you turn the speed ring all yardages change except the center crosshair.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I spent a lot of time being really frustrated when I first got my “skinny” xbow. I would get close , come back the next day and have to sight it in again. I was also shooting from a sled and tried several different makes of arrows.

I finally read about putting a bubble level on the scope. The level completely fixed my problem. If you have a narrow bow without a level, that could be your issue. My groups tightened right up after I put the level on the scope.

I was new to narrow bows and didn’t realize how much being slightly canted affected the poi.
Apolohies, should have mentioned I installed one this past Spring...
 

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Sight in at 20, go to 40 and adjust the third aiming point down for speed. Yes If your hittinh speed it up, if your hitting low slow it down. Now your dead on at 20 and 40, your 30 will be plenty close enough and 50 will be close enough!
...
Sight in the crosshair that is in the center of your scope using turrets. It will probably be 40 or 50 yds. Turn speed ring to what you think your bow is shooting first. Come back and shoot 20 yards. If you hit high turn the speed down till you are dead on. If you hit low turn the speed up. The rest of the yardages should now be on. When you turn the speed ring all yardages change except the center crosshair.
Conflicting info.
Hmmm...
 
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Sorry If high hits Speed the bow up, if hitting low slow the speed down. Keyboard fingers are fat, and proof reading aint my specialty!
 
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Sight in the crosshair that is in the center of your scope using turrets. It will probably be 40 or 50 yds. Turn speed ring to what you think your bow is shooting first. Come back and shoot 20 yards. If you hit high turn the speed down till you are dead on. If you hit low turn the speed up. The rest of the yardages should now be on. When you turn the speed ring all yardages change except the center crosshair.
I don't know what scope yer using but no scope I have will adjust my main center aiming point! That is not ever going to change with the speedring! And if I sight it in at 50 yards,,, every aiming point below that will be higher no matter what speed! A Slower setting makes the field of view wider making more distance between hairs, which is what you have to do to get the low hit up to the aiming point for that speed. If it is higher than the aiming point, speeding it up makes the field of view less, bringing you aiming points all up closer to center of the image!

That is how over 20 different crossbow scopes I have used works.
 
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Some of the new scopes are dialed in using the turrets at 40 or 50 yards. Then the speed dial is set at 20 yards. The Ravin scopes are set at 50 yards and one of the other new scopes is set at 40.
What scope are you using?
 

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Zombie - what scope do you have?
 
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There needs to be a methodical process followed when setting up a set of arrows or new bow.

1st take one arrow to get on paper with the scope, shoot it at all distances you intend to be shooting to verify the scope setup.

Once done shoot 1 arrow about 12 times at each distance to establish your grouping ability. This step IMHO is a must, you cant expect a set of arrows to out group your ability.

3rd shoot every arrow in the set with field points to establish the grouping accuracy of the set of arrows. They should be similar to your single arrow groups.

Next shoot all arrows with broad heads to see how they group compared to the field point groups.

IMHO there is no other way to do this, you have to know every aspect of the setup is right, you have to know how good you can shoot and you have to know the characteristics and accuracy of the arrows, broad heads and bow before you can identify an issue with the bow, with the arrows or with your shooting style.

Since you said you have a sub one I need some info

Did you have the arrows made with the setback at 1 3/8th, are you shooting aluminum nocks? If not what nock are you using, there are only two plastic nocks that you should use on a Sub 1, Black Eagle nocks with the flat sides or the new Firenock D nock. Do you have wraps on your arrows, if you do they need to go! Sub 1 bows are very tight around the trigger area which can cause issues on some bows.
 
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Sorry If high hits Speed the bow up, if hitting low slow the speed down. Keyboard fingers are fat, and proof reading aint my specialty!
If the center of your scope is 50 and you are sighted in and then shoot from 20 to 40 and you are high you turn speed ring down. If you are shooting 60 to 100 and you are high you turn the speed ring up. You adjust the center with the turrets .If he does what i said earlier he should be fine.
 

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If the center of your scope is 50 and you are sighted in and then shoot from 20 to 40 and you are high you turn speed ring down. If you are shooting 60 to 100 and you are high you turn the speed ring up. You adjust the center with the turrets .If he does what i said earlier he should be fine.
You will never use that method on a Hawke of any model, Excalibur of any model, Leupold Crossbones, Nikon Bolt, Tenpoint of any model, Zeiss XB-75, and some I have not mentioned. All require the top aiming point, which is center of the scope optics to be zero'd at a specific range, your closest, using the turrets. all others are the only ones adjusted with the Speed ring (power) all other aiming points below that top aiming point adjust with the speed ring simultaneously!

Every one of those scopes "REQUIRE slowing the scope down for hits that are impacting to low, and speeding the scope up for hits that are impacting higher than intended, for proper adjustment!

Now sir, as others have asked,,,,, WHAT SCOPE ARE YOU ADJUSTING" in the fashion you are referring to, because it is far different than any I mentioned?

Right now no one is helping this guy, it should be obvious we need to be scope specific!
 

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183245

seriously????

Hawke XB30 Pro Compact Crossbow Scope 30mm Tube 1.5-6x 36mm Illuminated XB30 SR Reticle Matte
 

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There are several crossbow speed scopes out now that work like HunterB said they do Bob. My Ravin scope worked exactly as he stated.
 

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I thought I will likely have some fine tuning to do anyway so I put the broadhead on and was on @ 20. Was an inch + low at 30, adjusted the speed ring & was about 1/2 high, no worries. Go to 40 and was about 2.5 inches low. Adjusted speed ring three times with no change in poi... Packed up and came in.

Question is when I turn the speed ring for a specific yardage does it adjust all yardages simultaneously? If so how will it ever sync it all up?
Has to be me, what am I missing?

TIA!
WTZ
That’s your problem. If Wapster correctly says you have the Hawke Compact, you’re not setting it up right. I went around and around with Hawke and they finally admitted their original instructions were wrong. (I sold that damn scope too).

The correct procedure with the 40 yard crosshair is to start close up and keep moving back and adjusting the elevation turret just to keep you on paper until you get to 40 yards. Then adjust the elevation turret (and windage if needed) until you’re hitting the bullseye dead nuts with the 40 yard center crosshair. Then put the turret cap back on and don’t touch it again.

Move back to 20 yards and then adjust the speed ring - turn higher if poi is high, lower turn lower.

Move to 50 yards and tweak the speed ring if necessary and then try 60 yards.

If you’re on at 40 yards, you’ll never need to touch the elevation turret again unless you make a major change - string or different shafts. Good luck.

Don’t know if I still have the link for the “correct” procedure they sent me but I’ll look.
 
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Mine was a 50 yard zero so I first set my speed dial for the speed of my bow 430 fps then got dead on at 20 then went to 50 and made adjustments using the turrets then back to 20 to set the speed ring. I was still dead on at 20 and no other adjustments had to be made.
 

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I found the email but I don’t know how to upload a pdf file sent via email. Here’s a copy of the main instructions, if you want to PM me your email address I should be able to forward it to you from my email.

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