[Ventilator]

Since we might have a bunch of Whittling Challenged, and at least one that can't figure out how to put a square peg in a round hole, I've come up with an easier solution. This will work on all the Gen-6 and later cams. And that includes the Deathstalker LT and Tremor Cams. Are you paying attention, Robert?

You will need to make yourself a U-Block. The examples I will be showing are sized for the Gen-6 and Gen-7 cams. The way the Gen-8 DS LT cams and Gen-9 Tremor cams are designed, you could actually modify the length of the forks and increase the web at the bottom of the U for the Gen-8. I made these this size to fit in front of the limb puck, because if you need to lubricate the pin and cable anchor arms inside the puck, or turn your cable anchor arms in the right direction, it will be on the same side.

U-Block 5/16" thick.

5/8" thick.

The U -Block allows you to use a hardwood dowel or a screwdriver (rubber coated or not) to lock out your cams with only 2"-3" of string pulled back by hand. This will prevent any damage to the limbs by protecting them from concentrated pressure, and distributing the pressure evenly over a much larger surface area.

The U-Block can be different thickness, to best accommodate your bow model, cam type, or for either dowel or screwdriver use. My 2 examples are 5/16", and 5/8" thick. I also backed them with the same cheap adhesive foam that I used on the Wedge.

The U-Block can also be inserted under the wedge for the guys that want a little more working room on strings and cables.

The U-Block can easily be held in place with a rubber band, to keep this a one person simple two hand operation.

I think it will only let me put 10 images in each post, so I will continue in next post.

 

[Ventilator]

Continued

When you get your U-Block fastened to the limb with the rubber band (previous post), you are ready to lock out your cam with a hardwood dowel. Grab the string with one hand, foot in the stirrup, pull back 2"-3", insert hardwood dowel into opening in cam.

5/16" U-Block and Hardwood Dowel.

5/8" U-Block and Screwdriver (Gas Line Covered).

These methods do not overstress the limbs, cams, strings and cables. Gives plenty of room for changing/adjusting strings, cables, or lubricating the limb pucks, pins and cable anchor arms.

For the Deathstalker LT and Tremor, get the largest diameter hardwood dowel that will fit in the cam opening. You will need to make a U-Block to the correct thickness to give you enough room to work on the strings, cables, limb pucks, pins, and cable anchor arms. Make note of the smaller cams on the DS LT, with the flat section. The web at the bottom of the U can be much wider than my examples.

Deathstalker LT. I would use a rectangle shaped hardwood block instead of a round dowel on this model.

Tremor. Use the largest diameter hardwood dowel that will fit in that opening in the cam along with the U-Block.

Here are the dimensions for the Gen-6 and Gen-7 cams. You could make them longer with a lot more web behind the forks for the Gen-8 cams. Might want longer forks for the Gen-9 cams? Thickness adjusted for your chosen method of locking out the cam.

This method has not yet been approved of by the Manufacturer, use at your own risk.

 

[Deamer]

Continued

When you get your U-Block fastened to the limb with the rubber band (previous post), you are ready to lock out your cam with a hardwood dowel. Grab the string with one hand, foot in the stirrup, pull back 2"-3", insert hardwood dowel into opening in cam.

5/16" U-Block and Hardwood Dowel.
View attachment 205215

View attachment 205216


5/8" U-Block and Screwdriver (Gas Line Covered).
View attachment 205213

View attachment 205214

View attachment 205217


These methods do not overstress the limbs, cams, strings and cables. Gives plenty of room for changing/adjusting strings, cables, or lubricating the limb pucks, pins and cable anchor arms.

For the Deathstalker LT and Tremor, get the largest diameter hardwood dowel that will fit in the cam opening. You will need to make a U-Block to the correct thickness to give you enough room to work on the strings, cables, limb pucks, pins, and cable anchor arms. Make note of the smaller cams on the DS LT, with the flat section. The web at the bottom of the U can be much wider than my examples.

Deathstalker LT. I would use a rectangle shaped hardwood block instead of a round dowel on this model.
View attachment 205218

View attachment 205219


Tremor. Use the largest diameter hardwood dowel that will fit in that opening in the cam along with the U-Block.
View attachment 205220

View attachment 205221


Here are the dimensions for the Gen-6 and Gen-7 cams. You could make them longer with a lot more web behind the forks for the Gen-8 cams. Might want longer forks for the Gen-9 cams? Thickness adjusted for your chosen method of locking out the cam.
View attachment 205222


This method has not yet been approved of by the Manufacturer, use at your own risk.

Brilliant, simply brilliant. Why is it sometimes that simple, and obvious solutions are often overlooked?
Nice going Vent.

 

[vortex nation]

There you have it! No press needed!!

 

[cleandate051005]

Thank you for taking the time to put together this post. I have learned so much from your years of experience with scorpyd crossbows. 👏👏👏👏

 

[robertyb]

I will agree with you that by making more room with the U block it should work on a Tremor. Are you still insisting that it will do so without the U block in place only using a wedge?
Nice work around Vent.

 

[Ventilator]

Brilliant, simply brilliant. Why is it sometimes that simple, and obvious solutions are often overlooked?
Nice going Vent.

The best things in life are stupid simple.

Complex is easy to come up with, but you really have to think hard to make it simple.

People's minds naturally gravitate towards what is known (inside the box thinking), it takes a little more head scratching to come up with something new and simple (outside the box thinking).

 

[Ventilator]

I will agree with you that by making more room with the U block it should work on a Tremor. Are you still insisting that it will do so without the U block in place only using a wedge?
Nice work around Vent.

Yes, absolutely it will work with just a wedge. I can get by with as little as 1/4" cam rotation before lockout, actually less if I roll the string out of the cam groove to give me room to adjust the cable.

This method will be much easier for the mechanically challenged, and whittling challenged individuals to grasp. Maybe!

 

[Falconer4ever]

Yes, absolutely it will work with just a wedge. I can get by with as little as 1/4" cam rotation before lockout, actually less if I roll the string out of the cam groove to give me room to adjust the cable.

This method will be much easier for the mechanically challenged, and whittling challenged individuals to grasp. Maybe!

Vent,
In reviewing both the "Wedge only" and the "U-block" methods, it would appear that the "Wedge only" method has 2 advantages:

1) Only need to build/shape one piece of material to lock-out the cam.
2) Bow needs to be drawn only a tiny amount to get enough cam rotation to lock-out....while having enough slack in string/cables to remove from teardrops.

I may use a piece of Delrin or Nylon....along with a dremel tool to shape it....to fit precisely in the appropriate cam cut-out.
Should be much faster and just as accurate as whittlin' on a wood wedge.

If a guy wanted even more slack in the string and cables, the U-Block method would be perfect!

 

[robertyb]

I want to see a pic of a Tremor pressed with a wedge alone with a cable disconnected. Then I will say "damn, I was wrong."

 

[Falconer4ever]

I want to see a pic of a Tremor pressed with a wedge alone with a cable disconnected. Then I will say "damn, I was wrong."

Well my friend, if I ever buy a Tremor (leaning more that way every day), I will sure give it a try!

Your caution is understandable....I can see where the "wedge only" method might give enough slack in bowstring to remove it from teardrops, but cable might still be a little bit too tight to remove it.

The key is whether that Tremor cam-hole is large enough (when locked-out with wedge only), to provide enough cam-rotation to get enough slack in cable.

I'm betting it is!

 

[robertyb]

It does not clear the side of the inside of the limb like the cams on the DS LT do. Might work, might not. Needs to be tried.

 

[Ventilator]

Well Doubting Robert, the Barnsdale limb tip thickness on the Tremor will be 19/32" (just a hair under 5/8") like my Nemesis. The Gordon Glass BP limbs tips on the Deathstalker LT will only be 7/16" thick like my DS 130, since they are the exact same limb, just preloaded and deflected a bit more for the higher 150# rating.

There is a lot more of that opening under the limb than meets the eye. It's looks more than half way, from the very few pics I have seen at a bad angle. Remember, I said they would have to completely fill that void, to give it maximum rotation while locked out. If it can get at least 3/8" rotation, I can do anything to the front end of that bow. 1/4" or slightly less if I roll the string out of the groove so I can have enough room to remove end loop from teardrop and easily twist a cable. Change/adjust/service the string, cables, limb pucks, pin, cable anchor arms, cam axles, and even the cams, one side at a time.

I guess we'll just have to wait and see if someone will make the commitment to making a wedge that completely fills that void?

There is more than one way to skin a cat!

 

[Falconer4ever]

Well Doubting Robert, the Barnsdale limb tip thickness on the Tremor will be 19/32" (just a hair under 5/8") like my Nemesis. The Gordon Glass BP limbs tips on the Deathstalker LT will only be 7/16" thick like my DS 130, since they are the exact same limb, just preloaded and deflected a bit more for the higher 150# rating.

There is a lot more of that opening under the limb than meets the eye. It's looks more than half way, from the very few pics I have seen at a bad angle. Remember, I said they would have to completely fill that void, to give it maximum rotation while locked out. If it can get at least 3/8" rotation, I can do anything to the front end of that bow. 1/4" or slightly less if I roll the string out of the groove so I can have enough room to remove end loop from teardrop and easily twist a cable. Change/adjust/service the string, cables, limb pucks, pin, cable anchor arms, cam axles, and even the cams, one side at a time.

I guess we'll just have to wait and see if someone will make the commitment to making a wedge that completely fills that void?

There is more than one way to skin a cat!

With the U-Block method being a sure thing, at least no one will pass on buying a Tremor simply because they think a press is mandatory for this bow....

 

[Rit]

Nice work Vent

 

[Bent_Limb]

I would rather buy a press then spend time measuring and cutting wood and wedging something in my cams that can mar or mark them up. Or scratch my limbs all the pieces.
Just my .02 I bet if something goes south doing this your warranty will not cover it either:

 

[Ironminer]

Brilliant, simply brilliant. Why is it sometimes that simple, and obvious solutions are often overlooked?
Nice going Vent.

Beautiful Work

 

[Tnmtns]

Great idea and thanks for taking the time and effort you put into the post!

 

[GARY W CURTIS]

I would rather buy a press then spend time measuring and cutting wood and wedging something in my cams that can mar or mark them up. Or scratch my limbs all the pieces.
Just my .02 I bet if something goes south doing this your warranty will not cover it either:

For someone who has already posted in the pucks up or down thread, that he has no interest in a Scorpyd, you sure like to weigh in on how owners of them, should maintain them. Very simple and safe procedure Vent has explained, and not hard to make the components. I would even venture a guess some enterprising soul will offer up said "tools" for sale at a price way less than a press that would get used, maybe once a year.

 

[Ventilator]

I would rather buy a press then spend time measuring and cutting wood and wedging something in my cams that can mar or mark them up. Or scratch my limbs all the pieces.
Just my .02 I bet if something goes south doing this your warranty will not cover it either:

That's fine, and I would also encourage people to buy a press. I don't think you understand MY reasoning for coming up with alternative ways to press a bow? I'm just sharing what I discovered works, and it is safe above all. I'm not selling anything, people can take it or leave it.

If you are shooting your bow out back, the range, a buddies house, the back 40, in your treestand, in a Spike Camp in the wilderness of Wyoming, in Africa, or any other place on Earth, will you always have your press with you? Of course not!

If I need to make a timing adjustment, sync cams, swap a string that a serving went bad on, or maybe you got careless and bumped the string with your broadhead trying to load an arrow in low light conditions, bumped it on a sharp rock in the Rockies, or several other possible mishaps. I can change a string in under a minute easily, anywhere on Earth. Your press will get awful heavy carrying it around with you all day on a remote hunt, or any hunt for that matter.

My wedge weighs a whole 1.1 oz, and fits in a pocket in my pack. Cost nothing, and took less than 5 minutes to make.

My U-Block, dowel, and rubberband weighs a whopping 1.3 oz, and also fits easily in a pocket. Cost nothing and took less than 10 minutes to make.

If you go back to the bottom of the second post, I added a disclaimer. Use at your own risk, or not. Nobody is forcing anyone to do anything they do not want to do. People would be more apt to mess up their bow with a bow press than they will using this method, imo.