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Discussion Starter #1
what is typical offset?

does anyone use helical?

please talk about your favorite setups in context of what (if any) offset
and/or helical is applied.

thanks,

Pete
 

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I use an AZ EZ in rt hand helical. I believe it has 8 degrees, but can't see much if any difference in factory fletched from Dan Miller. I believe the factory are offset, seems like I recall reading around 4 degrees. I mostly use 2" Blazers is probably why, but have done a few 4" Duravanes, same obsevation. Mill er advised me to get rt hand helical, so assume he knows the degrees, I thinka lot of what info he gives me. also, have heard you need the model for alums w/ this fletcher which is good for our diam carbons too. Their carbon model is for those skinny lil vert arrows, lol.
 

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I seriously doubt that the arrow knows if it rotating to the right or the left! And I'd bet no one is shooting straight up or down so the earth's rotation isn't gonna come into play!
Try looking at the water being flushed down the toilet...above the equator...then below the equator....!

That said, I have both a straight and a right helical foor my Bitz. fletch tool.
So far...all of the arrows I've done have been with the twisted holder.
Anything moving through the air like an arrow/bullet...will benifet from some amount of rotation for stability.
The trade off is reduced projectile speed. You're gonna loose a few feet per second. To me...for the gain in stabilization...I'll give up a few FPS.

Mike
 

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With 2" Blazers

I put a lot of helical on them. Right or left hand (wing) doesn't matter as long as they are all the same. I pretty much "eyeball" the amount of offset and lock it down. That's where it stays. I use a Jo Jan Mono fletcher for Blazers.

For 5" super low profile feathers I use straight clamps on a Jo Jan Multi Fletcher with very slight offset. The natural curve of these long feathers does not require any helical and very little offset. Again, I don't measure the offset but set it where I think is appropriate for 5" feathers and lock it down. That's where it stays. I use left wing because I have a zillion left wing feathers from my old traditional longbow days. The reason I use a 5" feather is because the Twinbow II's design does not allow for tall vanes or feathers so I get the necessary stabilization from long low profile feathers. I use a Young feather burner to cut the profile down to 9mm after fletching them.

There is no magical offset or amount of helical that's automatically the best. Have fun and experiment. When you find a combination that shoots well and is also easy to fletch, stick with it:)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks a bunch guys!!

assume I'm going to be using nothing but carbon gt laser II's.
AZ ez fletch looked pretty easy.. saw some good reviews talking about how
fast it is relative to other solutions etc. etc.

Any recommendations otherwise?
 

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I'm using a Jo Jan mono, fletch everything with 2* rt hand. All fly like darts.
 

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I seriously doubt that the arrow knows if it rotating to the right or the left!
While that is true, right hand doesn't loosen the field points in the target, left hand does. I've loc-tited my practice field points, seems to work ok. I have a problem remembering to check them, lol.
 

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Yep

and angled blade broadheads seem to all be for right wing vanes and feathers. Are any offered for left wing fletch?
 
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