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I gave them a try, but I stopped using lighted nocks because they gave me fits. Some wouldn't light up, others wouldn't turn off and I didn't like the added weight on back on my arrow, but I have to admit, at the distances I shoot (20 - 30 yards) the added weight didn't make too much of a difference in POI.

For years, I didn't use lighted nocks, so I figure, I don't need them, anyway.

But that's just me, If you like them, I glad for you.

Bobby
 

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I thought this was a good article.Especially explaining why your poi may be different.Ther's lots of shooter out thee that dont know any better.

I've had different weight arrows hit the same spots out to 40 yards lots of times.Different gpi,vanes,insert etc all effect flight.They do not all have to be the same to get the same poi.

I also disagree about 1 inch either way being close enough! If you make a bad shot.Off by a inch or so that extra 1 inch could be difference between a dead animal and a wounded animal!
 

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X2

If I can't shoot dimes out to 40 yards I have no business in the woods deer hunting and inch either way is 2 inches total and to me that's not shooting an arrow accurately that's pulling a trigger with a hope. IMO there is no room for
"close enough" or "probably" in bow hunting. There are far to many wanna bes and Pilgrims out there already that think being a good hunter comes in a can from Walmart or in a "ready to hunt crossbow package"

My "next shot " will be the best shot I ever took! But that's me ----to each his own!
 

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Sorry, but I can't buy into the + or - 1" premise either. A modern scoped crossbow with matched arrows is capable of rifle like accuracy out to 60 yards, for some folks even further. This is what I work to achieve and expect when I practice. I will accept no less.

There are far too many variables that come into play when taking any hunting shot. The longer the shot, the more these variables factor in; like the exact range to the target, the shot angle, the animal's body position, less than perfect light, or the animal moving before the arrow arrives to name a few. Throw in the human factor, along with just a touch of bow cant and I have all the + or - I care to add. I certainly don't want my equipment set up adding to that error. A quartering away shot on a mammal is textbook, but 1" off that last rib can mean a green arrow and a long tracking job.

My favorite weapon for hunting turkeys is a bow. I have gotten pretty good at it largely because early on I learned there is a whole lot of area on a turkey that results in a few feathers and a slimy arrow. My target is the head, the base of the neck, or for a broadside, exactly on the wing butt. Plus or minus an inch for these targets is a miss!
 

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Sorry, but I can't buy into the + or - 1" premise either. A modern scoped crossbow with matched arrows is capable of rifle like accuracy out to 60 yards, for some folks even further. This is what I work to achieve and expect when I practice. I will accept no less.

There are far too many variables that come into play when taking any hunting shot. The longer the shot, the more these variables factor in; like the exact range to the target, the shot angle, the animal's body position, less than perfect light, or the animal moving before the arrow arrives to name a few. Throw in the human factor, along with just a touch of bow cant and I have all the + or - I care to add. I certainly don't want my equipment set up adding to that error. A quartering away shot on a mammal is textbook, but 1" off that last rib can mean a green arrow and a long tracking job.

My favorite weapon for hunting turkeys is a bow. I have gotten pretty good at it largely because early on I learned there is a whole lot of area on a turkey that results in a few feathers and a slimy arrow. My target is the head, the base of the neck, or for a broadside, exactly on the wing butt. Plus or minus an inch for these targets is a miss!
My thoughts exactly!Well said!
 

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Is that with broadheads or field points??

I use Firenock lighted nocks and there's less than an inch difference in POI vs POA at 40 yds when I use my regular non-lighted Firenock J nock.

This less than an inch difference means absolutely nothing...
Octane I was just going back through this thread and saw I hadn't responded to you. The 65 yd shot reference was with field tips.
I don't believe I would take a 65 yd kill shot.
 

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Someone help me out....is there some "play" in the omi brite nock?
My arrows arrived today with omni nocks installed (lite ready). the nocks are all the way down snapped in without a lite. When I install a "light" and snap it down to first position, there is some play in the nock. If I pop it all the way down, the lite ignites of course, but it's a snug position.
 

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Someone help me out....is there some "play" in the omi brite nock?
My arrows arrived today with omni nocks installed (lite ready). the nocks are all the way down snapped in without a lite. When I install a "light" and snap it down to first position, there is some play in the nock. If I pop it all the way down, the lite ignites of course, but it's a snug position.
Yeah there is a little bit of movement, but it doesn't negatively affect the arrow. Been shooting them for a while now with no problems.

Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk
 

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Personal preference on my end would be to drive tacks no matter what I am shooting. With that said, being off less than an inch at 40 yards by adding or removing 25 grains to your arrow is completely accurate.

Lets assume a bow shoots 390fps with a 425 grain arrow. If your bow is zeroed at 20 yards at 40 yards your arrow will drop -8.07" from the POA.

Now lets assume you swap to a 105 grain tip increasing your arrow weight to 450 grains and decreasing your speed to 375fps. Your arrow now drops -8.89" from the POA at 40 yards.

I made an assumption that you lose about 3fps/5 grains added to your arrow set up.
 

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Personal preference on my end would be to drive tacks no matter what I am shooting. With that said, being off less than an inch at 40 yards by adding or removing 25 grains to your arrow is completely accurate.

Lets assume a bow shoots 390fps with a 425 grain arrow. If your bow is zeroed at 20 yards at 40 yards your arrow will drop -8.07" from the POA.

Now lets assume you swap to a 105 grain tip increasing your arrow weight to 450 grains and decreasing your speed to 375fps. Your arrow now drops -8.89" from the POA at 40 yards.

I made an assumption that you lose about 3fps/5 grains added to your arrow set up.
125 grain tip not 105 grain tip***
 

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I installed lumenoks that added 20 grains to the back of my bolt, so I then purchased some brass washers for crossbow bolts that are 5 grains each directions said not to add more than 3 to a bolt I added 2 to each to offset the 20 grains on the back by half recited my xbow moving scope up a few clicks this combination seems to be right back where it was before at least out to 40 yards have not shot pass 40 yards yet bolts are now 455 grains and all is good.
 

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Excalibur now has the lighted nocks pre-installed on their Diablo arrows -- with only a + 5 in grain weight. I plan on using them this fall.

I, like others, quit using them (other brands) because they were difficult to turn off -- hopefully these will be nice.

My plan is to practice/sight in with the old model arrows -- the 5 grains of additional weight should not be a factor at 20 - 30 yards.

Horns
 

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I tested the lighted nocks and found I had to make allowance for more drop than I wanted.
I took a doe using the lighted nock arrow. The nock helped track the deer for 60 yards. Then the deer ran into the thicket. The upper portion of the arrow broke away thus the tracking by lighted nock ended.
I went back to standard nocks because it is too much to manage the lighted nock difference.
 

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I believe that the article left out the change in FOC effect which is major to me. When I added Lumenoks to my 18" Zombies, I picked up approximately 20gs at the nock end which reduced my FOC. In order to maintain my FOC, I went up to the next higher insert weight , 50g from 26g. I shoot to 100 yards which is a range where not enough FOC really opens up groups. So, my decision to use Lumenocks actually forced me to shoot an arrow that is 44g heavier if I want to keep the FOC about the same. So, if you've chosen the minimum FOC for good arrow flight, you'll need to add the same increase of weight to both ends of the arrow, which will be at least double the difference between the unlit and lit nock. More FOC than the minimum needed doesn't hurt arrow flight but less does.
So, my choice to use Lumenocks made my arrows go from 396g to 440g.
 

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I believe that the article left out the change in FOC effect which is major to me. When I added Lumenoks to my 18" Zombies, I picked up approximately 20gs at the nock end which reduced my FOC. In order to maintain my FOC, I went up to the next higher insert weight , 50g from 26g. I shoot to 100 yards which is a range where not enough FOC really opens up groups. So, my decision to use Lumenocks actually forced me to shoot an arrow that is 44g heavier if I want to keep the FOC about the same. So, if you've chosen the minimum FOC for good arrow flight, you'll need to add the same increase of weight to both ends of the arrow, which will be at least double the difference between the unlit and lit nock. More FOC than the minimum needed doesn't hurt arrow flight but less does.
So, my choice to use Lumenocks made my arrows go from 396g to 440g.
The article does mention foc change.

I personally dont use them for hunting because of the foc factor.But do use them on occasion shooting targets.
 

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The article does mention foc change.

I personally dont use them for hunting because of the foc factor.But do use them on occasion shooting targets.
I think, yes and no. FOC is briefly mentioned but not discussed much to where a new arrow shooter would necessarily understand the full impact . For those who carefully work up to minimum desired a FOC, i.e. , slowly increasing FOC to where any further FOC increase doesn't tighten groups any more at max desired range (100 yds for me), the article doesn't discuss how the additional weight of the lighted nock must be added to the front end to maintain the same FOC. In other words, "If you want to use a lighted nock, you must be willing to increase the total arrow weight by at least twice the weight difference between the unlit nock and the lighted nock: often at least 40 grains. ".
 

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Sometimes I can be late to the party. I've used xbows since 1983. This upcoming season will be my 35th xbow season. I always resisted going to lighted nocks. Last year I tried Lumenocks. WOW! Why did I wait so long? I hunt much longer ranges that many. Just a fact, no apology nor misgivings. I love seeing the arrow go all the way to the target. I love finding my arrows after the shot. I realize that Lumenocks are entry level but don't know what more I could want. Maybe, I'll find out why the mote expensive ones are better, especially Dorge's.
I was hesitant to raise the weight of my arrows by 44 gs but feel it is worth it.
 

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Sometimes I can be late to the party. I've used xbows since 1983. This upcoming season will be my 35th xbow season. I always resisted going to lighted nocks. Last year I tried Lumenocks. WOW! Why did I wait so long? I hunt much longer ranges that many. Just a fact, no apology nor misgivings. I love seeing the arrow go all the way to the target. I love finding my arrows after the shot. I realize that Lumenocks are entry level but don't know what more I could want. Maybe, I'll find out why the mote expensive ones are better, especially Dorge's.
I was hesitant to raise the weight of my arrows by 44 gs but feel it is worth it.
I use Dorges nocks but not the lights in them.Too expensive and complicated for me. Most of my shots are close range and I usually find my arrow.

I've tried several other brands and Lumenoks are the best I've tried. No collars to glue in,simple,very bright and the batteries last a long time even with practice.
 
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