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Discussion Starter #1
I have decided to go with the Vortex Strike Eagle 1 -8x24 on my R26 on top of the jack plate. Mounted the jack plate for the second time and tightend the living daylights out of the allen heads. Mounted rings and scope. The jack plate is not solid. There is some up and down and side to side movement. It's slight but it is obviously there. Bump the crossbow and I can hear the vibration in the jack plate. I have an idea for a solution to the not so good fit of the jack plate.

Anyone else have the same trouble with their jack plate? Seems the fit isn't quite right.

I have mentioned this before and did remove the jack plate. A couple members suggested to really get on the mounting bolts. Unfortunately that didn't take the slop out.
 

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If you had any rubber cut a couple of thin strips to use as shims. I had to do that on one of my scope mounts and it has been there for years without moving again. The rubber simply compresses and fills up the slack space.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If you had any rubber cut a couple of thin strips to use as shims. I had to do that on one of my scope mounts and it has been there for years without moving again. The rubber simply compresses and fills up the slack space.
I thought about that too. The rubber I have was too thick. I have pealable shim stock I could use and I'm going to use GE2 silicon to make sure it stays put.

It is shooting fine. If I wiggle the jack plate it settles right back to the same place. What I'm thinking is there are other guys with the same problem that don't know it because it isn't effecting POI.
 

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Good to know. I was considering a Ravin jack-plate and Leupold optics for my R26. The movement is unacceptable and I'll likely go a different direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If they would get away from the solid base that has to be squeezed together to tighten up and go to a separate piece on the nut side of the jack plate and 3 bolts instead of 2 it would be a much tighter fit. I'm sure some of the jack plates tight up rock solid and others don't.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I did consider it but I want to use a more compact scope on the little 26. I was originally going to just use a red dot. The ideal set up would be a 1moa per click elevation turret in a compact scope I think unless wanting to use a multi retical scope.

After mounting the jack plate solid I found that the jack plate elevation adjustment does have some slop in the threads too. What worries me about that is the vibration from the sloppy threads when shot might damage the scope after some hard use.
 

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I have not had any problems out of mine, yet. Hope I don't.

One thing I used to do years ago when mounting scopes on rifles or scopes on heavy recoiling pistols to help keep them from slipping in the rings, once I knew where the scope would sit, is wrap the scope tube with one pass of electrical tape before tightening the rings on the scope. It usually is covered up by the rings. Sometimes it would not even take a full pass around the scope tube. I've never had a scope slip doing that. And have some mounted for over 30 years. Some are heavy recoiling rifle calibers in a pistol platform.

The electrical tape may be thin enough to take up any gap you may have on your rail, as a shim. I have not tried it on the Ravin rail. But will if my rings begin to slip on it. And being in the metal fab and welding business most of my life, I may also try using some aluminum tape. Brass can be gotten in shims down to .020" or smaller also. It can be cut with heavy scissors or sheetmetal shears. Just some thoughts for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Heres a little something I found after using shims to get a tighter fit on the rail.

Check this bolt on your jack plates if you start to get some play. I could hear a vibration still once I got the jack plate to tighten up and found this one bolt needed to be snugged up.
 

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Good to know. I was considering a Ravin jack-plate and Leupold optics for my R26. The movement is unacceptable and I'll likely go a different direction.
If you are looking for a system like a Jack plate you owe it to yourself to strongly consider the Sig Sauer BDX system with a 2.5 x 8 32 mm scope and the 1800 Range finder. I have used the Jack plate and this system renders it and all other mechanical elevation sighting devices obsolete in my opinion. Go here of more info on our Sig BDX crossbow user's site for lots of good inof from users of the system: Facebook Groups

This thing is deadly accurate out to 112 yards or more. I get sub MOA groupings all the way out to those distances. I won't shoot anything else. You can get the setup including scope and range finder for under $600.00.
 

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I have decided to go with the Vortex Strike Eagle 1 -8x24 on my R26 on top of the jack plate. Mounted the jack plate for the second time and tightend the living daylights out of the allen heads. Mounted rings and scope. The jack plate is not solid. There is some up and down and side to side movement. It's slight but it is obviously there. Bump the crossbow and I can hear the vibration in the jack plate. I have an idea for a solution to the not so good fit of the jack plate.

Anyone else have the same trouble with their jack plate? Seems the fit isn't quite right.

I have mentioned this before and did remove the jack plate. A couple members suggested to really get on the mounting bolts. Unfortunately that didn't take the slop out.
I was having the same issues on my R-29 earlier this year I actually bought a little longer bolts used the same same nuts and I have mine torqued to around 50inlbs and seems pretty secure
 

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When I had the Jack Plate on my Deathstalker I had to max out my Wheeler torque wrench to 60 inch pounds to get it to hold.

If I was going to keep it (the height was really a lot) I was thinking of squeezing the lower portion a bit in my smooth jaw wood vic.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
When I had the Jack Plate on my Deathstalker I had to max out my Wheeler torque wrench to 60 inch pounds to get it to hold.

If I was going to keep it (the height was really a lot) I was thinking of squeezing the lower portion a bit in my smooth jaw wood vic.
I think they should go a different route for mounting. The bolts aren't beefy enough to handle the torque needed to squeeze that base together to get a good tight grip on the scope rail. It just barely grabs a hold. Just enough to be secure but I don't think its enough to be able to take a good bump. I used peelable shim and some GEII silicon to make sure it's secure and I still don't really trust it with a heavier scope. I like the Vortex I have on it and I'm sighted in but still might just switch over to a light weight red dot.
 

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My main problem was the rail on both my Ventilator and Deathstalker - I know the Vent’s Weaver rail was narrower than a mil-spec picatinny.

Can’t measure the DS since I have a scope on it now but I’d bet either it isn’t the minimum .830” or the Jack Plate is a lot wider than mil-spec.

I had a similar issue putting the Parker Pin Point goofy adjustable mount on the Vent and had to make some brass shims for it.

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