Ok so with both eyes open I thought I had it perfect. Them I closed one eye and it was off. Should I turn scope till it's centered in the picatinny rail or with the limbs? Both are diff.
Hawke XB30 proI use two levels at a time but one works just as well if you can secure the xbow once levelled.
I put one level on the shooting rail to level the xbow.
Then I put a level on top of the elevation turret to level the scope crosshairs.
To really dial the crosshairs in, hang a 4- 6 foot long plumb bob some 5 to 10 yards out in front of your target bag and align the vertical crosshair with it.
Then torque the scope screws to proper settings.
By design, the limbs, picatinny and shooting rail should all be level.
Which xbow and scope are you referring to?
Yes, canting (or tilting) the xbow will also cause a fade right or draw left depending on the arrow fletching, the amount of wind and a host of other things that I am no expert in LOL.Canting a crossbow will create a POA vs POI problem. Getting the xbow level and the scope cross hairs plumb/level is an important first step.
Next step is understanding the effects of bow canting. Hunting situations at some point will not allow perfect level conditions. The Indian must practice, practice and practice some more to understand what canting will do to his POI vs POA.
Yes, canting (or tilting) the xbow will also cause a fade right or draw left depending on the arrow fletching, the amount of wind and a host of other things that I am no expert in LOL.
I believe that most arrows are fletched with a right hand twist in the vanes so will spin clockwise toward the target.
This spin can make the arrow dip down and to the right very slightly, depending on distance.
Same as a bullet leaving a rifled barrel.
A left hand twist in the vanes will do the opposite, i.e. spin CCW and dip down and to the left.
The main point being, there are so many variables that will cause stray or inconsistent shots, so we should do our best to eliminate as many as possible, like properly aligning the scope, before we even shoot.
That's what I did. I just made it so I'm happy with it. I'll see how it shoots later. I like to keep it basic.I have a good eye for things being out of level or plumb. A picture that is off just a bit sticks out like a sore thumb so I do mine by eye sight only. Both eyes open, dominate eye looking through the scope. Hold the bow with limbs level then close that eye and the horizontal line will tell me if it is level with the bow. Chances are your not going to hold the bow perfectly level when your ready to shoot at game so unless your taking 40+yd shot it won't make much difference if it's not in perfect alignment. Just my opinion on the subject.
Wow, that is surprising coming from Bohniing but I am no expert.Bohning, in all the testing they have done recommends a straight vane for crossbows due to the speed. This would remove two of the variables. Most of my shooting is less than 40 yds so a slight cant to either side would probably have less impact on the POI than my being able to hold rock solid. Age has a way of changing that ability.
I have only used straight vanes or slight offset in all my crossbow arrows. Can't see how anything more angled would work.Bohning, in all the testing they have done recommends a straight vane for crossbows due to the speed. This would remove two of the variables. Most of my shooting is less than 40 yds so a slight cant to either side would probably have less impact on the POI than my being able to hold rock solid. Age has a way of changing that ability.
OK, that is the thing right there.What I got from Bohning was with information I got when I purchased their 3 vane jig several years ago. It is possible that things have changed since then. I have fletched mine with the straight clamps and they shoot straight out to 30 yds. 2" group is as good as I can hold even off a rest but I am not 50 any more either.