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You are lucky to even have that whole space available to shoot. So, you put it only this far to check how far it looks through the scope or you also did shot some arrows?
 

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Discussion Starter · #182 · (Edited)
You are lucky to even have that whole space available to shoot. So, you put it only this far to check how far it looks through the scope or you also did shot some arrows?
its waste land not too far, still an effort to get target there, nope didnt shoot this time. been bothering me if my measure from google maps was accurate for my previous 50yards shots and wanted to see if i can use scope to measure distances, also wanted to see how 100m ish looks like through this scope

ive padded my mckenzie bag with 4meter cotton carpet to soften the sound a bit, so it weights bit more. not recommending anyone to open those rag bags, its pretty hard to get it function well
 

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Discussion Starter · #183 ·
some bad pictures of that serving, 2x 0.017 kevlar shot without lube ~50 times and + ~20 with lube

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Discussion Starter · #184 ·
exaggerated damage from rail, hairs lifted up for camera

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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
first ever free hand shots

sighted in for one arrow at 20ish yards, didnt check how other 3 shoots

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(poa for 1 2 3 4 was each smaller circle inside)

first hit pretty well, was the arrow i sighted, rest was all over the place but i continued the challenge

started to shoot rest of the arrows again supported using circle with arrow as POA, its the group in middle, shot each of em 2 times and then the sighted arrow 2 times, first hit pretty much in poa second into right, at this moment i started checking what was wrong aaand found out the scope was lose

think i can hit constantly into ring double the size in middle at 20yards free handed

now i should of pack everything up and head home, but i didnt, figured i sight it in for the 3 arrows but in middle of that i changed my mind and went for distance with one sighted arrow, as i thought i didnt mind losing it as it was shooting different than others, at 60 meters i aimed too hight, hit top of the bag and off it went, drop was no were near as bad as i expected after few 45yard shots, went back to 45 with another arrow and shot again top of the bag

was time to head home

one of those days.... or maybe just too much lasagne
 

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Discussion Starter · #188 ·
i ran this "kevlar" through nails few times to see if i could peel em before attempting to reserve again

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dont think it should be coated like this to be good material for servings
 

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Discussion Starter · #189 ·
this is how much stuff i got out from 3meters in one go with cotton shirt

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takes about 10 times to saw through it to get nothing into shirt
 

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Discussion Starter · #190 ·
difference between swiped and non swiped

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this should prevent it crumbling from friction with rail and hooks from cocker
 

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Discussion Starter · #191 ·
once again wasnt happy with cam lean and timings, also ata was off cocked and uncocked by 1 and 3 millimeters
managed to get timings pretty much exact, ata is still 1mm off cocked, could be my crooked eyes too tho and cam lean was also a same on both sides

now arrows shot 1 inch to left, in 5yards, which to me was off too much for scope to coop

took me a while and gave a look at the scope, when i tried to get it exact vertical, i had left bigger gap into rings on other side, using 2 arrows as my scope layser, it looked off to me

making the gap in rings more closer on each side was enough to straighten it, also appeared more middle with my arrow laysers

need to test how it shoots tomorrows
 

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Fly, a question ...
As I have mentioned, I have a MK-XB52 (Stalker).
One thing that catched my attention some while ago was this:
Grey Natural material Wire Pattern Metal


I mean the directly intersecting string loops.
What a flashy and extraordinary idea ...
Does the Kraken have asimilar string setup ?

Somehow I don't like it, and it makes me ponder a robust recurve as alternative. Like a Matrix G340.
 

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Discussion Starter · #194 ·
Fly, a question ...
As I have mentioned, I have a MK-XB52 (Stalker).
One thing that catched my attention some while ago was this:
View attachment 206374

I mean the directly intersecting string loops.
What a flashy and extraordinary idea ...
Does the Kraken have asimilar string setup ?

Somehow I don't like it, and it makes me ponder a robust recurve as alternative. Like a Matrix G340.
nope, cables are single piece

that could make it longer lasting, atleast those cables are lot better shape than mine
i saw similar loop on string on very old compound vertical at slingshot channel
 

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Sunday sep 12 tuning

Today I took the occasion and went to the court of my mother in law where i have 15 meters of direct shooting line.
I discovered on youtube the trick with the screwdriver into the cam to immobilize that cam and be able to perform quick yoke twists, very helpful.
So, this way I managed today to do maybe 10 rounds of adding or taking twists for both low and high yokes on both cams to achieve cam level and reduce cam lean to something that appears to me as imperceptible.
Shots were taken after each operation, with the same fletched arrow.
Judging from the photos, impact pattern is pretty much good, even though behind it, on the target bag, arrows seem a little with the tail on the left, otherwise the bag is straightening them out on impact.
Photos from impact look like this.
View attachment 206401
View attachment 206402

I show following the rest of the shots, not all having near them the corresponding position of the arrow in the bag.

View attachment 206403

View attachment 206405
View attachment 206406

This above is the last photo of impact hole of same fletched low quality arrow. To me it looks kind of good?
In the same time with performing twists and twirls I also re-sighted the scope, so this is the final result, which I considered acceptable for 15 meters (yards), until next weekend when I will go to countryside and will shoot and sight-in the scope from 20 to 50 meters.
Final result on eliminating cam lean looks like this, for the left and right cams.
View attachment 206408


I am happy with the results by this time, the appearing geometry of the bow is now MUCH better than has initially been, cam lean, string pressure on rail, etc.
It is only now that both cams are in sync, after being off since I got the bow. There are signs on the back of the cam that I only now discovered.
After so many interventions on the yokes, i still have to measure again ATA in order to see if there is a need to compensate on the string itself.
Before leaving, I took a large breath and tried one bare shaft of my own production, the heaviest I had. Guess what?
View attachment 206410

What do you think, guys? I am partially pleased with results, the screwdriver technique is helpful, things are not perfect and final, whare do you think I stand? Then.... the bareshaft result...
 

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Discussion Starter · #196 ·
Sunday sep 12 tuning

Today I took the occasion and went to the court of my mother in law where i have 15 meters of direct shooting line.
I discovered on youtube the trick with the screwdriver into the cam to immobilize that cam and be able to perform quick yoke twists, very helpful.
So, this way I managed today to do maybe 10 rounds of adding or taking twists for both low and high yokes on both cams to achieve cam level and reduce cam lean to something that appears to me as imperceptible.
Shots were taken after each operation, with the same fletched arrow.
Judging from the photos, impact pattern is pretty much good, even though behind it, on the target bag, arrows seem a little with the tail on the left, otherwise the bag is straightening them out on impact.
Photos from impact look like this.
View attachment 206401
View attachment 206402

I show following the rest of the shots, not all having near them the corresponding position of the arrow in the bag.

View attachment 206403

View attachment 206405
View attachment 206406

This above is the last photo of impact hole of same fletched low quality arrow. To me it looks kind of good?
In the same time with performing twists and twirls I also re-sighted the scope, so this is the final result, which I considered acceptable for 15 meters (yards), until next weekend when I will go to countryside and will shoot and sight-in the scope from 20 to 50 meters.
Final result on eliminating cam lean looks like this, for the left and right cams.
View attachment 206408


I am happy with the results by this time, the appearing geometry of the bow is now MUCH better than has initially been, cam lean, string pressure on rail, etc.
It is only now that both cams are in sync, after being off since I got the bow. There are signs on the back of the cam that I only now discovered.
After so many interventions on the yokes, i still have to measure again ATA in order to see if there is a need to compensate on the string itself.
Before leaving, I took a large breath and tried one bare shaft of my own production, the heaviest I had. Guess what?
View attachment 206410

What do you think, guys? I am partially pleased with results, the screwdriver technique is helpful, things are not perfect and final, whare do you think I stand? Then.... the bareshaft result...
cover the screwdriver with rubber tube to prevent damage on cams
 

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Discussion Starter · #197 ·
Sunday sep 12 tuning

Today I took the occasion and went to the court of my mother in law where i have 15 meters of direct shooting line.
I discovered on youtube the trick with the screwdriver into the cam to immobilize that cam and be able to perform quick yoke twists, very helpful.
So, this way I managed today to do maybe 10 rounds of adding or taking twists for both low and high yokes on both cams to achieve cam level and reduce cam lean to something that appears to me as imperceptible.
Shots were taken after each operation, with the same fletched arrow.
Judging from the photos, impact pattern is pretty much good, even though behind it, on the target bag, arrows seem a little with the tail on the left, otherwise the bag is straightening them out on impact.
Photos from impact look like this.
View attachment 206401
View attachment 206402

I show following the rest of the shots, not all having near them the corresponding position of the arrow in the bag.

View attachment 206403

View attachment 206405
View attachment 206406

This above is the last photo of impact hole of same fletched low quality arrow. To me it looks kind of good?
In the same time with performing twists and twirls I also re-sighted the scope, so this is the final result, which I considered acceptable for 15 meters (yards), until next weekend when I will go to countryside and will shoot and sight-in the scope from 20 to 50 meters.
Final result on eliminating cam lean looks like this, for the left and right cams.
View attachment 206408


I am happy with the results by this time, the appearing geometry of the bow is now MUCH better than has initially been, cam lean, string pressure on rail, etc.
It is only now that both cams are in sync, after being off since I got the bow. There are signs on the back of the cam that I only now discovered.
After so many interventions on the yokes, i still have to measure again ATA in order to see if there is a need to compensate on the string itself.
Before leaving, I took a large breath and tried one bare shaft of my own production, the heaviest I had. Guess what?
View attachment 206410

What do you think, guys? I am partially pleased with results, the screwdriver technique is helpful, things are not perfect and final, whare do you think I stand? Then.... the bareshaft result...
some arrows and or nock are more sensitive to swing either side. it can be anything from strings to cables or limbs to get it hit left side

if you have ata right cocked and uncocked and limb distances from rail and cam markings on exact same, you can try move serving bit to the right by turning it, this will tighten right side just a bit but should leave all timings pretty much the same
 

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Discussion Starter · #198 ·
finally broke that plastic support piece between barrel and riser with shimming, kinda surpriced it lasted this long and this much abuse

i had glued 2x4mm with 2 pieces of cable tie to get bit more thickness and sturdiness and this was enough to finally brake the saddles from that piece
glad its not fully borken
 

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Very thick shim, 4mm...
 
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