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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
nice, i might actually take trigger a part someday
 

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easy-peasy. I cleaned it very good, put vaseline on springs and the axles, had some metal grinding inside from when I polished the latches with sandpaper to save the serving of the string. actually, now there is ZERO marks on string. Like new.
 
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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
been depressed of inaccuracy and wide spread and chance in poi for few while and been wondering what is going on

yesterday i had a look on cams and saw markings way out from what they was, when i got this new front end, so i tightened cables half twist and got em more into range
i think right spot for em is under cables, they are still not exactly how i want em to be, but this did tighten the groups in different arrows, also added raiser shim back to play
fighting the urge to start adjusting the cables more to see if i can get arrows group better
 

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If cam-related problems, all arrows should hit kinda the same, but you shouldn't notice since zeroed scope including this sistematic error, on 20 meters.
If longer distances, problem could be arrows themselves, if different arrows have different POI and same POA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
think i take twitsts of from string next, this should bring cams to perfect timings, and if that dosnt help i need to check invidial limbs from cables to get that final tune
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
If cam-related problems, all arrows should hit kinda the same, but you shouldn't notice since zeroed scope including this sistematic error, on 20 meters.
If longer distances, problem could be arrows themselves, if different arrows have different POI and same POA.
those new arrows i got, they got some pretty bad scratches now, i shot em a while without shim
after i shimmed again and corrected timings some, they are again hitting within arrows thickness each other on 5.5yards, but with other arrows shooting almost inch left
im hoping to get all arrows to hit about same, this should make it easier if i ever need or go for broadheads

i just looked at timings and they are not even, gotta try to get em perfectly even and see if that does it
 

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those new arrows i got, they got some pretty bad scratches now, i shot em a while without shim
after i shimmed again and corrected timings some, they are again hitting within arrows thickness each other on 5.5yards, but with other arrows shooting almost inch left
im hoping to get all arrows to hit about same, this should make it easier if i ever need or go for broadheads

i just looked at timings and they are not even, gotta try to get em perfectly even and see if that does it
How do you LOOK AT TIMINGS?
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
last night using scale, i improvised spine tester and marked 3 arrows (for the first time) that had spine roughly opposite of cockvane, i know 3 of 6 arrows dosnt hit the same and now i shot em, including poe lang i had refletched with heats that i corrected nock a bit to avoid drag with cockvane, this arrow i had previously "spine tested" with my thumbs and according to my improvised not so accurate tester it had spine exactly opposite of cockvane

big thanks to person who showed picture of first ever tester, couldnt figure this without it


on left is refletched poelang

204998

(5.5y rested)

gonna take 1, 2 and 4 to field trip once weather gets better
 

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Lets take this a step further !!
Lets say your bow does not have timing marks on the cam and you have no idea where to set your cams .
What i would do is measure your ATA uncooked .
then cock your bow and measure the cocked ATA . wright these measurements down .
You then check them with the factory specs for both cocked and uncocked .
Lets say your uncocked ATA is spot on , but your cocked ATA is 1/8 th wider than spec .
Well why is that you ask ?
Your timing is off , but your cams may be synced .
Time for a tune ,LOL. End quote.
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
Spine SHOULD be opposite to cocking vane. As to timing vs SYNC of the cams... Cam timing , Cam sync .
just comparing lines to horizontal, i think someone here said that lines should be about under cable but it could of been on other crossbow model
on original front end with original strings and cables it was under, on this one they was in front of em

if i remember right, arrows pointed pretty much in to spring dampeners when they were right

i dont have chrono so its impossible to tune for highest fps, instead i try to get least vibration and good sound of the shot
 

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Does the Kraken have marks, signs, anything for timing indication? Do we know correct, exact factory ATA cocked and uncocked?
 

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Tell me cock and uncock ATA when you find best timing. My string rubber shock dampeners flew away, only now I saw they are gone and not there anymore...
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
Tell me cock and uncock ATA when you find best timing. My string rubber shock dampeners flew away, only now I saw they are gone and not there anymore...
its now 2mm tighter than official, and if i take of twists from string it will be really close to exact values with cam markings under cables
 

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Discussion Starter · #157 · (Edited)
Tell me cock and uncock ATA when you find best timing. My string rubber shock dampeners flew away, only now I saw they are gone and not there anymore...
add 2 twists on cables into direction that tightens serving, 2 to cable endings that goes to each limb
add 2 twists into each side of string
check ata uncocked and cocked
check that cams are exactly horizontal, check that both sides are as much a part from rail
check for excessive lean when cocked, i removed half twist from top and added half twist to bottom to correct excessive inwards lean when cocked, this might have set it off from tune tho

check markings on cams that they are atleast near cables and pointing pretty much same direction (cables are not pointing same direction on each side tho)

all this might be totally wrong, but these are pretty much what ive done

(disclaimer: its not adding twitsts into existing twists but total visible twist count)

i do not know how many twitsts on each cable and string i currently have, but i do try keep em equal on both sides, altho this might change if i try get cam markings exactly same

when you adjust string or cable, you need to let it sattle or shoot it few times, i usually pump it few times back and forth before i cock it

note that all 2 twists might be too much, specially if you have string whiskers in place, i think DBB recommended 1½ on his recurve and it could be just perfect for kraken too, or not
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
Lets take this a step further !!
Lets say your bow does not have timing marks on the cam and you have no idea where to set your cams .
What i would do is measure your ATA uncooked .
then cock your bow and measure the cocked ATA . wright these measurements down .
You then check them with the factory specs for both cocked and uncocked .
Lets say your uncocked ATA is spot on , but your cocked ATA is 1/8 th wider than spec .
Well why is that you ask ?
Your timing is off , but your cams may be synced .
Time for a tune ,LOL. End quote.
if you read comments further on that thread you realise that you do exactly same thing with cam markings
 
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