So, just dropped $5000 on shoulder reconstructions surgery. Going to invest in a cranking crossbow and seems Wicked Ridge fits my budget right now. They offer 360, 370, and 400 fps. I prefer the heavy hitting Pile Drivers with a 125 grain broadhead. Will the extra 30-40 fps really make a difference? Doubt my shots will ever exceed 40 yds at game. Gonna have to also invest in another hard case, sling, and probably upgrade on a scope so $ clearly is an issue.
Need advice on relationship between speed and arrow weight.
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At that range probably not much. Howsomeever, you may want to consider going to a lighter shaft (9 gr/inch) and putting the weight up front in a heavy insert. It will increase FOC and momentum through the target. My xbow was advertised at 324 fps with a 380 gr arrow. I shoot at 20-30 yards with a 570 gr arrow (36 gr nock, 19.25" shaft, 200 gr insert, and 125 gr BH) at 280 fps. FOC comes in about 25%. If I hit bone, I want it broken. Momentum runs about 0.70 slug-fps.
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I'd suggest the I400 unless the narrow/light factor of M370 is a big value for you. If you buy from a dealer like Wyvern, he can offer scope and arrow options so you're wasting less money on the OE components. A RangeMaster Pro scope and ACUdraw (nice light crank) with ElitePro400 arrows, their Dragon Claws or Pile Drivers with 125 gn tips would make a darn nice setup. With a 425-430 gn arrow the I400 speed will be 380ish, the M370 350ish.
Slug? Man I haven't used that measurement since my physics classes and you don't want to know how many years ago that was. Definitely going with heavy inserts. Really a meat shooter so heavy FOC is important to me.
The weight of the 3670 is about 3-4 oz lighter. Think I can live with the extra weight of the 400. Just discovered Wyvern a couple 9f weeks ago. Looks like the way to go. If Trump waives the payroll tax I'll be able to afford the new bow and the wife may not notice.
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Bones... I'm a neighborhood herd control shooter. Don't want Bambi galloping through backyards and bus stops waving a failed pass-through. Particularly problematic with kids permanently out of school.
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Good topic! So if I may, without trying to highjack the Op's thread, can any of you "Math Freaks" tell me what my FOC will be with a 20" factory Evo X Center Punch arrow utilizing a 100gr NAP Spitfire 3 blade, lighted Alpha Nock, and stock brass insert of 92 grains I believe? This is my current combo that will be launched out of a Viper S400. Any thoughts on efficiency, balance of speed and weight, etc? I will likely never shoot past 50 yards, and only then if conditions are near perfect. I'm not much of a technical person when it comes to all these formulas and such. I pretty much do my learning from experience, which can be a bit rough sometimes. Sorry Bones. I hope I'm not gumming up your thread.
Heck, no. All my physics edjumacating is in radiation physics so I'm a tad rusty on trig and such. Quick story. Was sighting in with my 125 gr Muzzy Trocar Hybrids. With two of those in the target I put on 125 gr DRT Dirt Naps and got an extra inch and a half penetration...but couldn't keep them accurate for my taste. Lots of variables in this stuff.
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Bulldog... Sharing EXPERIENCE is fully as important as sharing knowledge. That is why we are all here. Shooters helping shooters. Not knowing the mass of all components it's just a guess, but FOC may be a little north of 25%. You can do it yourself by finding the balance point of your hunt ready arrow and measure back to the center of the shaft (10" point). Divide that distance by the length of the hunt-ready arrow and multiply by 100. Put the % symbol on that number and that's your FOC. Goldtip.com has a FOC calculator if you know the mass of all components of the arrow. Hope this helps. Good luck with that bad boy.🤪
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Thank you Bones and GingerJake! I will save that formula and check out that calculator, as that's cool stuff. If I'm at 25% I would call that good for whitetail deer. I guess until I actually hammer a deer with this rig, I won't know much except the numbers. Once I see first hand how it actually performs, I can then make necessary adjustments to my arrows.
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Indeed...Extra Penetration does little good if you can't steer it home with any consistency. It's a fine line sometimes.
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While you're … opting for all that penetration, remember it takes about 25ke to pass through a deer. Also remember the old "know your target AND WHAT'S BEHIND IT!" adage...lol When you're designing an arrow to have 130ke and all those slug/ft, keep in mind once it's through the deer the remaining 105ke is taking that arrow someplace. That "someplace" may not be in your best interest...lol I'd be just as worried about stopping the arrow as getting it through the deer. 🖐 Frozen ground ricochets? Rocks? Lot to think about.
Any of those 3 crossbows will kill every deer that you're going to meet. I'd chose the one that's going to be the most shooter friendly. And then practice to become extremely proficient with it. Personally, I go with lighter, faster, flatter shooting arrows that give me a wider parameter of "point blank range," which is range of distances that holding center of vitals will give you a kill. For example a lighter fast arrow with a 30 yard zero may have a PBR of 5 to 45 yards while a heavy slower arrow, that could penetrate a tank, may only have a PBR of 5 to 35 yards. Having a wider kill zone makes up for range estimation errors. Keep in mind when the crap hits the fan you're not going to have time, or often the presence of mind, to calmly pull out your super-duper range finder and go through a text book shot sequence. And of course, you probably don't have a tank tag attached to your license, so elephant killing penetration simply shouldn't be an issue...lol The other advantage of faster, flatter arrows is LESS momentum carrying that pass through to Lord only knows where.
Any of those 3 crossbows will kill every deer that you're going to meet. I'd chose the one that's going to be the most shooter friendly. And then practice to become extremely proficient with it. Personally, I go with lighter, faster, flatter shooting arrows that give me a wider parameter of "point blank range," which is range of distances that holding center of vitals will give you a kill. For example a lighter fast arrow with a 30 yard zero may have a PBR of 5 to 45 yards while a heavy slower arrow, that could penetrate a tank, may only have a PBR of 5 to 35 yards. Having a wider kill zone makes up for range estimation errors. Keep in mind when the crap hits the fan you're not going to have time, or often the presence of mind, to calmly pull out your super-duper range finder and go through a text book shot sequence. And of course, you probably don't have a tank tag attached to your license, so elephant killing penetration simply shouldn't be an issue...lol The other advantage of faster, flatter arrows is LESS momentum carrying that pass through to Lord only knows where.
Good points, Iron Duke. I've stuck things and never found the bolt. I stick a lot of pigs and that shoulder plate is hard as a rock. I put these 2 pi s on another thread, but this big show was quartering slightly away when I drew collected just a little too much shoulder. You can see how it ricocheted south and came out close to the liver. So, even in game, arrows can go in different places.
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Shot the one hog I ever hunted (270 LB Sow) right in the throat as she was facing me, with a PSE Dominator at 80lbs draw weight. Long time ago, back in the early 90's I believe. I'm pretty sure I used an Easton Super Slam and one of the very early mechanicals that utilized an O-ring. Can't recall the name though. Ughhh! Regardless, she piled up within 40 yards and expired fairly quickly. I think I still have that hunt on VHS tape some where.
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