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Optimizer & Scope

1443 Views 17 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  TomOnTheRun
Santa is bringing me a new HHA Optimizer and a Vortex Crossfire 1-4 V-plex scope. This is for my TS390. Does anyone know if this is a good combo? Anyone with experience with either of these two components please let me know how it's going. Thanks.
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I have the HHA Optimizer set up on two Barnett Ghost 410 crossbows. For scopes, I am using Bushnell AR 223 3 x 12 x 40 Drop Zone with the side parallax that can be reduced to 10 yard. These scopes are not illuminated as I do not require that feature for target shooting. This scope is rated up to 600 yards. I have the crossbow mounted in a high quality rifle jig, level bubbles on the riser and an offset one on the scope and level bubbles on the jig. These crossbows are upgraded, modified and tuned to shoot well over Barnett's advertised speed taking into consideration an over weight arrow-point combination than what Barnett supposedly used to obtain their advertised speed.

On a calm day, I have shot 1/4 to dollar size spots at 90 yards.

The HHA dial only fits on the right hand side. If you use the crank cocking device with the crank on the right side, you have to have the HHA set a bit forward so you do not hit it when cranking the crossbow. I just use the one label for all the distances and keep a log book with the arrow-point combination length and weight I shoot and tape measure traffic cones out to various distances.
The only time this fails is when retuning the crossbow (different string and or string and cable). I then have to do my set up over again, recording in the log book.

Wishing you all the best with the crossbow.
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I had a HHA Optimize on my TS390 with a Bug Buster 3-9x32 scope and Sig SauerRomeo5 Red Dot sight. Incredibly accurate and deadly combo. I don't know much about your scope but I'm sure it will be as good if not better and you will be impressed as long as you practice.
I've never used an opti, so I don't know jack! But is it a pain to keep trying to adjust for a deer that's moving along with the range constantly changing? And isn't the extra hand movement sometimes picked up by wary old whiteys?
Just thoughts going through my melon! o_O No know'n or experience at all! :rolleyes: 'Edumacate' me, boyz!
Im hunting mostly swampy thickets and bedding cover. My shots tend to be 25 yards or less. I won't need to use the optimizer much at all, and I can use the scope on 1 power with both eyes open if I want. Occasionally, when I hunt brushy fields I'll get a longer shot. In that case I'll be able to adjust. But by and large, no adjustments needed for almost all of my shots out to 30 or so. That's my plan anyway.
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I've never used an opti, so I don't know jack! But is it a pain to keep trying to adjust for a deer that's moving along with the range constantly changing? And isn't the extra hand movement sometimes picked up by wary old whiteys?
Just thoughts going through my melon! o_O No know'n or experience at all! :rolleyes: 'Edumacate' me, boyz!
Set it to 30 yards and execute hold overs if that is your concern. Works quite well. However, If you are in a pop up blind or tree trust me the HHA is a major advantage to dial in by the yard. You grunt they'll stop long enough to dial. I've done it!

My Xbow will have a HHA on it, I've used it and it works. Gives you more options. Use it how it works for you.
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No doubt, calibrated scope elevators are dead nuts at 60 yards and everything in between. It's my opinion that the use of elevators are choice based on hunting conditions. My back stand could produce a need for 50 yard shot. However my front stand limits to 20-25 yards. Would I take a shot with my multi reticle out to 50? Nope. Would I be able to pull down on a deer at 25 yards with an elevator and 3x9 scope? Not me, field of view is difficult to be comfortable if a snap shot was required.

Some may disagree. That's why I have two TS370's. One for the front stand, one for the rear. (or at least that's what I told the wife when I bought the second) eh Tom!! LOL
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You guys are kill'n this Canadian dude!!!! I gotta buy soooo much stuff!!!!! :rolleyes: LOL

I already got an Evo-X come'n from Rich, the Texan. I hope it'll be enough? o_O
No doubt, calibrated scope elevators are dead nuts at 60 yards and everything in between. It's my opinion that the use of elevators are choice based on hunting conditions. My back stand could produce a need for 50 yard shot. However my front stand limits to 20-25 yards. Would I take a shot with my multi reticle out to 50? Nope. Would I be able to pull down on a deer at 25 yards with an elevator and 3x9 scope? Not me, field of view is difficult to be comfortable if a snap shot was required.

Some may disagree. That's why I have two TS370's. One for the front stand, one for the rear. (or at least that's what I told the wife when I bought the second) eh Tom!! LOL
LMAO! That is so spot on. For me, I set my Sig Sauer at 30 yards and do the hold overs for the heat of the moment. Regardless, truth be told, the TS370 is so legit regardless what you put on it. Actually, there are several Barnett's I would feel that way about but the top of the food chain for me is the TS370. Just sayin' and I just purchase the new BearX Constrictor. That TS370 not going anywhere!
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Tom,
Did you see my post on the portable bow press I made? Worked perfect

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Wow, that is so darn cool. Does the tension wire and eye bolt come in contact with shooting rail? How do I get one of those. I want one! Wow!
I'm having 60X make a string to replace the cable with serving across the rail. I used the cable to accurately size the the length. Whats cool about it is the fact you can adjust the cam lean, ATA with the press mounted. Tighten the TB by hand, make or take a twist on cable/string then loosen to measure the result of the adjustment without the need to remove the press.
I have a few enhancements to make that will make it an excellent tool. Once I get the strings from 60X I'll contact you so we can arrange getting you one. Stay "tuned"......

Thanks to BR's guidance this came to life. THANK YOU BR
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That looks awesome!!! Great idea!
I agree, So impressive!
I'm having 60X make a string to replace the cable with serving across the rail. I used the cable to accurately size the the length. Whats cool about it is the fact you can adjust the cam lean, ATA with the press mounted. Tighten the TB by hand, make or take a twist on cable/string then loosen to measure the result of the adjustment without the need to remove the press.
I have a few enhancements to make that will make it an excellent tool. Once I get the strings from 60X I'll contact you so we can arrange getting you one. Stay "tuned"......

Thanks to BR's guidance this came to life. THANK YOU BR
I would also like one ,once you figure out price.
Mike, quite cutting in line. LOL.

Yea, I think there will be a few requests once your are done Farm Deer. Kudos to your innovative thinking.

Barnett forum is a great place to hang out for sure. :cool:
I can't speak for other xbow's but I can for the TS370 and similar compound designs.

With the cables being below the rail height, the angle of approach of the yoke makes the bottom yoke cable longer because of this angle. It may take as much as three twists to balance the cam angle to be parallel with the rail. I start with one twist and adjust after first measurement. You can verify cam angle with several different methods. IF you put a straightedge across the limbs near the cams, the entire surface of the both limbs should contact the straight edge entirely. Any gap, top edge or bottom edge of either limb, indicates cable adjustment is necessary. If a limb is not parallel to the other then that indicates one of the cables is inducing torque to the limb and off loading the cam and the angle of the cam.

Not everyone has a CMM (coordinate measuring machine) available. I do. This procedure was verified to be an accurate means to balance the limbs and cam. Some may disagree and that's okay. The CMM proved that adjusting the cables is very important to balance (tune) the cams and provide balanced force on the limbs.

I purposefully adjusted all cables to one twist (cam angle was visible). I shot the bow 6 times , same arrow, to find the arrow shot high along with the string having excessive down pressure on the rail. I then added 2-1/2 twists to the bottom yoke string on both left and right, cams now parallel with the rail. String now had .002-.003" under the string to rail. Again shot the bow 6 times, same arrow, to find the arrow flight was 1-1/2" lower than the above mentioned. This was based on 40 yard distance.

There is no "Black Magic" to tuning a bow. Keep things simple: make sure all bow components are square/parallel to each other and the same distance. Doing this yourself provides a better understanding of "tuning" a xbow. Seeing is believing. Hope this helps reduce the fear of replacing string/cables and tuning a xbow for those that haven't experienced it.

Excellent Holidays to All
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I can't speak for other xbow's but I can for the TS370 and similar compound designs.

With the cables being below the rail height, the angle of approach of the yoke makes the bottom yoke cable longer because of this angle. It may take as much as three twists to balance the cam angle to be parallel with the rail. I start with one twist and adjust after first measurement. You can verify cam angle with several different methods. IF you put a straightedge across the limbs near the cams, the entire surface of the both limbs should contact the straight edge entirely. Any gap, top edge or bottom edge of either limb, indicates cable adjustment is necessary. If a limb is not parallel to the other then that indicates one of the cables is inducing torque to the limb and off loading the cam and the angle of the cam.

Not everyone has a CMM (coordinate measuring machine) available. I do. This procedure was verified to be an accurate means to balance the limbs and cam. Some may disagree and that's okay. The CMM proved that adjusting the cables is very important to balance (tune) the cams and provide balanced force on the limbs.

I purposefully adjusted all cables to one twist (cam angle was visible). I shot the bow 6 times , same arrow, to find the arrow shot high along with the string having excessive down pressure on the rail. I then added 2-1/2 twists to the bottom yoke string on both left and right, cams now parallel with the rail. String now had .002-.003" under the string to rail. Again shot the bow 6 times, same arrow, to find the arrow flight was 1-1/2" lower than the above mentioned. This was based on 40 yard distance.

There is no "Black Magic" to tuning a bow. Keep things simple: make sure all bow components are square/parallel to each other and the same distance. Doing this yourself provides a better understanding of "tuning" a xbow. Seeing is believing. Hope this helps reduce the fear of replacing string/cables and tuning a xbow for those that haven't experienced it.

Excellent Holidays to All
Simply outstanding! Truth to power that is fact! Nuff said! If you want to optimize your crossbow you have to do it or have someone tune the Xbow that knows what they are doing. That's why I want to get a Xbow press.

I've owned my share of Xbows over last three years and gotta say not one of them comes tuned out of the box to your optimization comments. Well done sir!
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