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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First: big thanks to @Riflenut and @bigbird1 for encouraging me to get a press and learn to change my own cables and answer a fair number of PMs.

I changed out my OEM cables and string after 1 year. My ATA was nearly 0.5 inch out of spec. Replaced with archery shack. It was a pain but next time will be easier.

Here is what the old cables looked like. String was fine.

I love this bow but make sure you check your cables and ata.


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First: big thanks to @Riflenut and @bigbird1 for encouraging me to get a press and learn to change my own cables and answer a fair number of PMs.

I changed out my OEM cables and string after 1 year. My ATA was nearly 0.5 inch out of spec. Replaced with archery shack. It was a pain but next time will be easier.

Here is what the old cables looked like. String was fine.

I love this bow but make sure you check your cables and ata.


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Did you have to remove the scope rail and scope on your R26 to change out your strings and cables with the ravin press?
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Did you have to remove the scope rail and scope on your R26 to change out your strings and cables with the ravin press?
Yes. I have an R10 and you don't need to remove scope or rail on that. But for the R26, I had to remove both. It wasn't too hard as long as you have the right size allen or torx. If you're going to give it a shot I'll post up some tips. There was alot of f-bombs in my house last night.....

it will probably take me 1/10th the time and effort next time.
 

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Yes. I have an R10 and you don't need to remove scope or rail on that. But for the R26, I had to remove both. It wasn't too hard as long as you have the right size allen or torx. If you're going to give it a shot I'll post up some tips. There was alot of f-bombs in my house last night.....

it will probably take me 1/10th the time and effort next time.
 

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It would be good input dlist777 any tips are appropriate.
I will be purchasing a press in the up incoming weeks to work on my R26.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK, things I learned that were aggravating:

1. Yes, you have to take the rail off the R26. You'll need a torx set (like a T8...not exactly sure but a small one) and a small allen head to remove all the screws.
2. When you put the cables on, step 1 is to bend a paper clip into a V and put it through the unserved end of the cable. Then, squeeze the paper clip together and insert it between cam. Get a needle nose and grab the paper clip from the other side and pull through.
3. Then, attach the unserved loop to it's spot on the cam.
4. Then, attach the served loop from the other side. It can be really really tight (esp on the bottom of the bow) because the post is so close to the bow. If you can wiggle it in, use the back end of a butter knife to push down (gently) the served end.

The string is easy. Then, you can work on your timing and checking ATA. RifleNut has some great videos on that (TN sharpshooter on YouTube).

The order is important, its much harder if you attach the served end first (lesson learned on first cable).
 

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A tip here when changing strings and cables.
Press the bow to get ample slack for string, so it comes off the side of cam. Then remove string. Then disconnect all cables at the served end off of center holders on bow. Additional pressing may be necessary to get needed clearance to remove cables. Once all the above is done. Let press down some. No need to keep bow fully pressed. Easier on limbs. Then remove one cable at unserved loop end and go ahead and replace this cable immediately. So the routing is fresh in your mind. Then move to the next cable. And repeat. When all cables are attached at unserved loop end. Then you can press bow fully enough to get cables on the holders in the middle of bow. Then put string on.

One more tip. Notice cam position before you start pressing bow from the start. This is key. You’ll want to hold the cam in this position when you are routing your cables. If you don’t do this you run the risk of installing cable by incorrectly routing. Wonder how I know this???? Guess.

Wax the unserved loops on cables as part of your job preparation before you press bow. The strings archery shack supplies do a good job for me in getting unserved loops routed where they need to go.

Do an inspection of bow before unpressing. String goes in between upper and lower cables. Cable routing when looking at right and left cams should look symmetrical.

Forgot to say.
R26/R29/R29x owners.
Warning: Based on my doing, I don’t recommend these models bows be cocked or uncocked with scope rail and rear plastic holder removed. If you do choose to do this, your gear assy may come in contact with plastic, plus you area unable to properly hold bow to safely cock and decock.

Cheers.
 

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I have not yet touched a Ravin or even seen one in person but I do have one on the way and a press also. But I have changed strings and cables on other crossbows many times and I learned to take a couple of good pictures of the string and cable routing before ever pressing a bow.
A picture is really worth a thousand words sometimes.
 

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I have not yet touched a Ravin or even seen one in person but I do have one on the way and a press also. But I have changed strings and cables on other crossbows many times and I learned to take a couple of good pictures of the string and cable routing before ever pressing a bow.
A picture is really worth a thousand words sometimes.
Yes. I agree.
I took pictures of Ravins and put in my string changing threads.
 

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Riflenut.... you have posted in another thread changing strings and cables. You mentioned changing your strings and cables, you mentioned to change your cables out first to obtain your timing and cam lean with your old string still on. What do you recommend?
Thanks in advance Jim
 

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Those cables look really bad. Thanks for the tips I'm waiting on my press and strings this will be a first for me I always had an excalibur. How many times did you repress to correct timing?
 

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Riflenut.... you have posted in another thread changing strings and cables. You mentioned changing your strings and cables, you mentioned to change your cables out first to obtain your timing and cam lean with your old string still on. What do you recommend?
Thanks in advance Jim
Yes I did say that.
Why?
Because one can shoot bow with new cables and old string and by doing not worry about messing up nock point on new string.
Basically let the cables run in a little.
Just 10 shots after some cock time (10 minutes) on new cables will get cables stretched out nicely. In colder weather if doing string and cable change outdoors a good idea. Won’t hurt s thing. Just make sure old string is still somewhat worthy. After doing cables can still be adjusted if need be.
If one chooses to go this route shooting new cables with old string. When you install cables get out cam lean. Don’t worry about ATA unless it is too short. Too short is more than 1/16” less than 10.5” axle to axles. Using old string having too short of an ata is unlikely as old string is stretched. After cables have been cocked around 10 minutes and shot 10 times then the cables as far as how they appear on bow timing wise when new new string is installed will give a better ideal look of bow timing and ata.
One can also double check cam lean too. One may have to make small adjustment.
Just don’t try and nock a bolt and shot your bow with new string until you have bow timed. Doing this will insure better longer lasting accuracy of your bow. Now when and if string needs to be adjusted. MAKE sure to adjust each end of string the same amount in the same direction twist wise. Doing this will keep your nock pint on string intact while being able to change ata and or advancing cams symetrically.

If is one’s choice. One can do multiple cocking sessions with new cables and new strings on the bow too.
 

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Riflenut.... you have posted in another thread changing strings and cables. You mentioned changing your strings and cables, you mentioned to change your cables out first to obtain your timing and cam lean with your old string still on. What do you recommend?
Thanks in advance Jim
Yes I did say that.
Why?
Because one can shoot bow with new cables and old string and by doing not worry about messing up nock point on new string.
Basically let the cables run in a little.
Just 10 shots after some cock time (10 minutes) on new cables will get cables stretched out nicely. In colder weather if doing string and cable change outdoors a good idea. Won’t hurt s thing. Just make sure old string is still somewhat worthy. After doing cables can still be adjusted if need be.
If one chooses to go this route shooting new cables with old string. When you install cables get out cam lean. Don’t worry about ATA unless it is too short. Too short is more than 1/16” less than 10.5” axle to axles. Using old string having too short of an ata is unlikely as old string is stretched. After cables have been cocked around 10 minutes and shot 10 times then the cables as far as how they appear on bow timing wise when new new string is installed will give a better ideal look of bow timing and ata.
One can also double check cam lean too. One may have to make small adjustment.
Just don’t try and nock a bolt and shot your bow with new string until you have bow timed. Doing this will insure better longer lasting accuracy of your bow. Now when and if string needs to be adjusted. MAKE sure to adjust each end of string the same amount in the same direction twist wise. Doing this will keep your nock point on string intact while being able to change ata and or advancing cams symetrically.

If is one’s choice. One can do multiple cocking sessions with new cables and new strings on the bow too. Remember when I wrote what I did earlier the big bird nock tool hadn’t be created. I used one now always.

I actually like to put new cables and string on bow one day and then pick it up the next day and adjust. I may try and adjust for cam lean before I lay bow down for say 24 hours. This lets the new cables and string get conditioned for bow cams. How they bend. I would still double check cam lean later though. And wouldn’t worry about ata as long as it’s was not more than 1/8” less than 10.5” for R9/R10/R29/R20 when I first installed cables and string for the 24 hour period.
 

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Yes I did say that.
Why?
Because one can shoot bow with new cables and old string and by doing not worry about messing up nock point on new string.
Basically let the cables run in a little.
Just 10 shots after some cock time (10 minutes) on new cables will get cables stretched out nicely. In colder weather if doing string and cable change outdoors a good idea. Won’t hurt s thing. Just make sure old string is still somewhat worthy. After doing cables can still be adjusted if need be.
If one chooses to go this route shooting new cables with old string. When you install cables get out cam lean. Don’t worry about ATA unless it is too short. Too short is more than 1/16” less than 10.5” axle to axles. Using old string having too short of an ata is unlikely as old string is stretched. After cables have been cocked around 10 minutes and shot 10 times then the cables as far as how they appear on bow timing wise when new new string is installed will give a better ideal look of bow timing and ata.
One can also double check cam lean too. One may have to make small adjustment.
Just don’t try and nock a bolt and shot your bow with new string until you have bow timed. Doing this will insure better longer lasting accuracy of your bow. Now when and if string needs to be adjusted. MAKE sure to adjust each end of string the same amount in the same direction twist wise. Doing this will keep your nock point on string intact while being able to change ata and or advancing cams symetrically.

If is one’s choice. One can do multiple cocking sessions with new cables and new strings on the bow too. Remember when I wrote what I did earlier the big bird nock tool hadn’t be created. I used one now always.

I actually like to put new cables and string on bow one day and then pick it up the next day and adjust. I may try and adjust for cam lean before I lay bow down for say 24 hours. This lets the new cables and string get conditioned for bow cams. How they bend. I would still double check cam lean later though. And wouldn’t worry about ata as long as it’s was not more than 1/8” less than 10.5” for R9/R10/R29/R20 when I first installed cables and string for the 24 hour period.
Thank you Riflenut for clarifying that for me. At first I started to get confused reading the threads but now it makes sense.
 

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I enjoyed watching your videos and look forward to you making more from start to finish installing string and cables.
 
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