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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone hunt small game with their crossbow? I used to use flu flu arrows and or blunt tipped arrows with my trad grear. I would be interested in rabbit or squirrels with my crossbow but it seems like you would just break or lose arrows. Any good set-ups that you use?
 

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I have a couple Excalibur crossbows that shoot under 300fps. I use a Rip Trick small game head and have taken grouse, squirrels and the occasional skunk that finds its way into my chicken coop. The Rip Trick is great because it flies to the same POI as my Slick Trick Mags. Precision is key when shooting at a grouse or squirrel at 20+ yds! Another head I've used is a Magnus Bullhead made for decapitating turkeys. I used their larger Bullhead and due to its size it leaves a bit more room for error.
Having a slower bow makes it a bit easier to find arrows after the shot, but its not absolutely necessary if you have a natural backstop such as a stump or mound of dirt to stop your arrow.
Good luck
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For groundhogs I use cheap arrows with field tips that produce a reasonable group at 20 yards. I look for fresh holes, toss dirt they pushed out to cover the hole. My folding chair is placed 20 yards away on any little hill or elevation to get a downward shot. I set the xbow in my Bog Death Grip aimed as close as possible. If they are coming out it usually takes about 20 minutes for a head and shoulders to poke out. They drop with almost any movement so having the xbow basically set close to position requires limited movement. I use my RDX 400 and would not use the TP 505 or a HS xbow. A good/lucky shot kills or at least pins them. I carry a .22 pistol to put any wounded ones down quickly. GH tournaments usually will not accept bullet holes, but I'm not excited to stick my foot on one, they are pretty impressive up close.
Squirrels would be tough and I'd never shoot skyward like you might with a flu-flu arrow from a bow. Rabbits might be OK with a field point as they will frequently stop after running a short distance, but its usually in a brushy/weedy spot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I know field points can kill but after seeing results of field points and .22 solids on rabbits and squirrel....ugly would only use blunt of some type or hollow points in .22. I'm thinking a slower bow will probably be better. Too bad flu flu arrows aren't an option
 

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I know field points can kill but after seeing results of field points and .22 solids on rabbits and squirrel....ugly would only use blunt of some type or hollow points in .22. I'm thinking a slower bow will probably be better. Too bad flu flu arrows aren't an option
I use a Hickory Creek mini so I can dial the poundage and it is rail-less so small game and FluFlu fletching are fine. That being said if you were to fletch one rigid vane to ride the rail you could still use FluFlu in front of the vane riding the rail.
MAYBE!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I use a Hickory Creek mini so I can dial the poundage and it is rail-less so small game and FluFlu fletching are fine. That being said if you were to fletch one rigid vane to ride the rail you could still use FluFlu in front of the vane riding the rail.
MAYBE!!
Now that's an interesting idea!
 

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I know field points can kill but after seeing results of field points and .22 solids on rabbits and squirrel....ugly
I don't want to get off topic, but a 22 (FMJ) for small game has been a standard hunting cartridge since developed. Nearly all shots at >20 yards can be deadly head shots, so it's shot selection, not ugly.

The same can be said for the groundhogs. A >20 yard shot with a field point can usually be a direct head shot. Since there are no guarantees, a quick backup for dispatching is helpful.
As bundaarrows59 mentions, adding an adder head is a great idea, and they are cheap enough to see if an arrow can survive a 350+- fps impact with dirt, in my case I can be as careful as possible to remove rocks.
A spring loaded blunt would be an interesting test. Staying within an acceptable range for headshots is key.

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Couple inexpensive options that screw on behind a field point. On the right is an All Blade broadhead.

The + shaped ones are from Dead X Broadheads. As you can see from the pic they get bent up a bit. The metal is very malleable and they can be straightened out over and over without breaking.
Any of these heads could be used behind an old broadhead as well.
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