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Discussion Starter #1
So I've finally gotten a press for my Ravin, and I'm ready to tune it to the max. Couple questions to start, what is the ideal position for the cables in the timing dots? Currently they barely touch the front side of the dots in the back uncocked. When cocked the cams are not synced. The left cam's front timing dot is covered by the string, and the right cam's cable is barely touching the front timing dot on the front side. Is this something to worry about/adjust or is it just a fact of crossbows to have different strength limbs?

If you have any insight or advice in general would love to hear it.
 

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first thing you should do is shoot it some,, personally every new bow or set of strings I buy are left cocked over night,, just my way of letting things get real!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've been cocking and decocking for a while now, letting it sit up to 30 mins cocked and then working it some more. I want to make a nice notch for the nock to sit in and I'd rather do it once in the right position than shoot it some and make a new impression near the old one allowing for lateral movement of the arrow.
 

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So I've finally gotten a press for my Ravin, and I'm ready to tune it to the max. Couple questions to start, what is the ideal position for the cables in the timing dots? Currently they barely touch the front side of the dots in the back uncocked. When cocked the cams are not synced. The left cam's front timing dot is covered by the string, and the right cam's cable is barely touching the front timing dot on the front side. Is this something to worry about/adjust or is it just a fact of crossbows to have different strength limbs?

If you have any insight or advice in general would love to hear it.
The way I set up the bow.
What is your Ata? Needs to be 10.5” or 10 9/16”.
Timing on both cams should be close to center of dots with ata dialed in. You’ll have to adjust string and cables to get your ata.
Next.
Cock the bow, but cock only until little orange wheels on cam’s start so to bisect your cables. Compare left and right side. I do this because the little wheels give a real good reference point for comparing cams. Which ever cam is rotating the most when you look at — that cam’s cables will need twisting. Try 1/2 turn. Now. You should already have your cam lean out. You may have to put 1 turn twist in the over rotated cam’s cables. You’ll see the tightening of cables, this will regard the cam rotation.
Really all the above needs to be done before you even nock a bolt. Definitely don’t shoot the bow until it is tuned. By not shooting you keep serving fresh so when you do get bow tuned you will have a nice nock point on string the width of bolt nock..

If you are running closer to front dots, and ata is long you need to add twist to all cables, try 1/2 turn.

Now depending on how your cables have been twisted, you may put say 1/2 turn twist in one cam’s cables to retard the over rotating cam, and let out other cam’s cables 1/2 twist to cause cam to advance. (This assumes you have twist to let out or cables - you may. It’s have) In doing, both cams will be synched when bow is cocked letting oranges wheelman come under cables slightly.

Hope this helps.

Cheers.

Here’s A video I did on subject of Ravin timing and nock point.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you riflenut I've watched many of your vids and this rundown is extremely helpful. I have an old broken arrow I sawed off with a more worn nock I've used to remove the trigger box but that's it so far. I'll be doing these things tomorrow, will update this thread with progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ata is center of axel to center of axel right? If that's the case, I have an ata of 10 7/16" so I need to untwist cables and string?
 

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Ata is center of axel to center of axel right? If that's the case, I have an ata of 10 7/16" so I need to untwist cables and string?
If your timig is Running closer to front dot with tad short ata. Take a half twist out of each end of string. Shoulda get your ata close. And center up your timing in dots.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay here's where I'm stuck. Uncocked ata 10.5". Cocked ata 6 1/8". Uncocked timing: both cables directly in between timing dots. Cocked timing: left cam has cables covering front timing dot, the dot is on the forward side of the cable. Right side has cables covering front timing dot, dot is on the rear side of the cables. I have taken cables off and untwisted them, no twists in anything right now. Can take pics of anything for more clarity.

Do I worry about cocked ata and the slight timing difference cocked, or is the difference negligible?
 

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I never check cocked ata.
I do cock back to where oranges wheels in cams intersect cables. ANd if cam shows are not synced I adjust cables on whichever err cam is over rotating.
And keep my ata 10 1/2-10 9/16”.
 

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So you tune for cocked sync over uncocked sync?
I have no problem with Riflenut's suggestion but Ravin recommends synching and timing your cams with the bow uncocked. I do things a little different than Riflenut but I suspect the results are very much the same.
After tuning the bow with it uncocked, I just start shooting and enjoying it. But I check from time to time to see if the nock notch is moving by using my nock centering tool. If the nock notch doesn't move laterally, you're fine and your arrows are probably still shooting like darts.
However, if your cam timing is off significantly when cocked, chances are you'll start to see the nock notch slowly relocate from center after 3 to 4 doz. shots. This is demonstrating that your cams are adjusting on their own to your limbs which are slightly mismatched in strength and reaching what I call equilibrium.
This most likely will settle out and remain the same soon afterwards. So to fix this, I merely look to see which way the nock notch has moved. If it shifted to the left, twist up you right cam cables a full twist while untwisting your left cam cables by the same amount. This will pull the string to the right.
Always remember twisting up the string rotates your cams Inward while twisting up you cables rotates your cam outward.
If 1 twist is not enough, try another half or even a full twist and you should see the nock notch now back in the center between the rail edges.
At that point, your cams are now timed to match your limbs. From then on, just remember or take a picture of your cam timing so when you have to change out strings, you know how to set cam timing for your limbs. If that nock notch stays dead center between the rails, your Ravin is capable of amazing accuracy even at long range.
Sorry for the long winded reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the long reply bigbird. Since they were barely off (<1/16" difference) when cocked I figured I'd at least get the sight better adjusted so I went and shot it maybe 20 times. I have visitors this weekend but may have time to finish sighting and tune more. I think I might do a twist on the right side as riflenut suggested and see what that looks like cocked. I'm not sure how it is on yours but my timing dots are right near the cables at full cock so I've been checking those and the orange wheels.
 

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I was out yesterday shooting broadheads into a target out to 40 yards and then moved it to 50 yards and hit a tad high but about 3 to 4 inches to the left. I was using a field pod to shoot off of so felt good about my aim point. I then stuck another arrow on the uncocked string and barely wiggled the nock right and left and sure enough it slid about 1/8" to the side. So this morning I pulled out my original string which recently came back from being reserved by Marty and swapped the strings out and mailed the one I took off back to Archery Shack to be reserved by them as it is their string. I shot a few FPs and it is hitting dead on so tomorrow I will make certain with a few broadheads.
The left side of my timing dots are advanced a little more than my right ones but when I am cocking the bow watching the orange wheels they look to be lined up perfectly and touching orange at the same time.
 

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I'm considering getting Dorges 2 cable system for the R26. I think it will definatly be a good upgrade. Wish I would have looked onto it before jumping and ordering the Gas set. Next time I need to replace the cables or string I'll be ordering Dorges pulley system.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Besides not having to twist 2 cables on each side, what's the advantage of the pulley?
 

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Besides not having to twist 2 cables on each side, what's the advantage of the pulley?
This is a cut n paste from the Firenock web page:
There are many fantastic benefits to this dual US patented design. Most significantly, the upper and lower cables are self-timed. This means that cam lean is virtually eliminated as cable length differences are the main culprit of cable stretch. Additionally, the stress from working to sync up and keep all four cables from twisting is significantly reduced. Note finally that as cable length increases, shock absorption does also, leading to an ultimately quieter bow.
 

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Besides not having to twist 2 cables on each side, what's the advantage of the pulley?
I think it would be more reliable and easier to keep in time. Why have 4 cables to worry about and possible cam lean if you can get away with using 2 cables and eliminate cam lean issues all together.
 

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Question.
Are all cam bearings created equal?
Likely not.
So using oem cable setup one can dial out cam lean.
With this aftermarket system you can’t.
You are stuck with what you have.

With the aftermarket system you’ll still have to adjust cable system to offset(retard) strongest limb.

Just my opinion.
Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The shock absorption seems nice. The rest I could leave behind. Wonder what the actual shock absorption difference is.
 

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Question.
Are all cam bearings created equal?
Likely not.
So using oem cable setup one can dial out cam lean.
With this aftermarket system you can’t.
You are stuck with what you have.

With the aftermarket system you’ll still have to adjust cable system to offset(retard) strongest limb.

Just my opinion.
Cheers.
I did give it more thought after posting and I agree. I'm not so sure it's the better choice now.
 
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