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Discussion Starter #1
So I'll start by saying I've had this bow for 2 weeks and tonight was the first night I've shot it because I wanted to make sure I watched all the videos on how to operate it properly and I watched them all at least twice. So when I hit the release for the trigger to go down the slide it doesn't go down the rail all the way. I have watched the video addressing this issue and after playing with it some I can get to go about half way down the rail consistently. After cranking I'm doing the 2 turns and 1 turn with the black button pressed. Seems like the braking system inside the stock isn't adjusted right or something. Anybody else have this issue?! I have video but I can't figure out how to post it here. Any help would be appreciated!
 

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Rmax,
are you letting it down with the knob on the left side in a controlled fashion or letting it free fall?
 

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So I'll start by saying I've had this bow for 2 weeks and tonight was the first night I've shot it because I wanted to make sure I watched all the videos on how to operate it properly and I watched them all at least twice. So when I hit the release for the trigger to go down the slide it doesn't go down the rail all the way. I have watched the video addressing this issue and after playing with it some I can get to go about half way down the rail consistently. After cranking I'm doing the 2 turns and 1 turn with the black button pressed. Seems like the braking system inside the stock isn't adjusted right or something. Anybody else have this issue?! I have video but I can't figure out how to post it here. Any help would be appreciated!
This video may help you.

 

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A couple Q's that would help diagnose:
Is the strap prohibiting the trigger box from advancing or is the trigger box "stuck" in the track?
If you rotate the knurled crank knob CCW when this happens , does it allow the trigger box to advance?

My cadence when cocking is to rapid crank until the trigger box is 1-1/2" - 2" from full cocked position and then I transition to a much slower speed until I just hear the "click" of the lock latch.
Some I have spoken with that did have Accuslide issues stemmed from them "over cranking" once the lock latch is set. This may come from seeing a Ravin cocking procedure where a slip clutch allows for over cranking. However, to have a true cocking/decocking capability, as with the Accuslide, a slip clutch would not be conducive.

I have over 500 shots through my Viper and have not had any issues. Just be sure to not over crank and to reverse crank 2-1/2 - 3 turns after the bow is cocked.

Hope this helps!
FD
 

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If I remember correctly, it seems that when the bow was new that the trigger box dropped down with no issues for the first two times. Now I have to assist the unit by turning by hand the crank knob with my fingers to allow the box to drop down to the serving, than I push to latch. I don't think its a big deal that it doesn't drop down on it's own and I have no clue as to why it needs a little assistance.
 
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Only my opinion based on my experience. After cocking if you do not reverse crank, CCW, 2-1/2 - 3 turns the strap will not have enough "slack" to allow the trigger box to advance to the string on the next cocking. Again, this is on a Viper.
FD
 

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Discussion Starter #9
A couple Q's that would help diagnose:
Is the strap prohibiting the trigger box from advancing or is the trigger box "stuck" in the track?
If you rotate the knurled crank knob CCW when this happens , does it allow the trigger box to advance?

My cadence when cocking is to rapid crank until the trigger box is 1-1/2" - 2" from full cocked position and then I transition to a much slower speed until I just hear the "click" of the lock latch.
Some I have spoken with that did have Accuslide issues stemmed from them "over cranking" once the lock latch is set. This may come from seeing a Ravin cocking procedure where a slip clutch allows for over cranking. However, to have a true cocking/decocking capability, as with the Accuslide, a slip clutch would not be conducive.

I have over 500 shots through my Viper and have not had any issues. Just be sure to not over crank and to reverse crank 2-1/2 - 3 turns after the bow is cocked.

Hope this helps!
FD
I've only got 6 shots through this bow so everything is brand new condition. If I twist that knurled knob it does advance down the rail. If I hold the trigger mech in place and twist that knob when I let go it with drop a few inches and stop. If I don't hold the trigger in place I have to wind it all the way down the rail. I've noticed that the knob retracts in and out depending on where it's at in the twists/revolutions. I can get videos of what's going on but I can't figure out how to post them on here hahaha
 

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That said, sounds to me like you need an extra CCW turn after cocking and the trigger box would advance all the way without additional assistance.
Good luck!
FD
 

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Set down with the bow and play with running the trigger slide in and out. Watch the video while doing this. I had the exact issue you talk about. The 3 reverse cranks are imperitive first, and then turn the knurled knob out all the way. When letting the trigger out, hold the black button down while releasing the trigger latch, as soon as the trigger starts to slide let off the black button, the slide will go to the bottom and latch.

This is what worked for me, the 3 reverse turns disengages the brake and backing off the knurled spindle allows the internal drum to free wheel.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Rmax,
are you letting it down with the knob on the left side in a controlled fashion or letting it free fall?
Do after playing with it some it does go down smoothly in a controlled fashion. In the TenPoint promotional videos they let it free fall. Does it not work doing that anymore?
 

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Do after playing with it some it does go down smoothly in a controlled fashion. In the TenPoint promotional videos they let it free fall. Does it not work doing that anymore?
We do not let the Trigger Box "free fall".
We hold the Trigger Box Assist Knob and Release Lever at the same time so it slides down in a controlled manner and doesn't slam against the center serving.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
We do not let the Trigger Box "free fall".
We hold the Trigger Box Assist Knob and Release Lever at the same time so it slides down in a controlled manner and doesn't slam against the center serving.
That sucks. That's how they depicted it to work in all their original videos
 

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Have you ever noticed what happens on a bait caster reel if no pressure is applied to the spool when a cast is made? Now think about the spool inside your bow when it free falls. If you don't then apply pressure to it while taking up the slack bad things can happen. Thus it is best to lower it by hand so the reel does not free spool. That is probably why they are seeing so many folks that can't get them to drop properly. JMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Have you ever noticed what happens on a bait caster reel if no pressure is applied to the spool when a cast is made? Now think about the spool inside your bow when it free falls. If you don't then apply pressure to it while taking up the slack bad things can happen. Thus it is best to lower it by hand so the reel does not free spool. That is probably why they are seeing so many folks that can't get them to drop properly. JMO.
They shouldn't show it doing that in their advertising videos then...
 

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That sucks. That's how they depicted it to work in all their original videos
I mean you can let it slide down if you want to, but why let it go zooming down, it is not a race, right?
I guess if you are trying to get a quick second shot off, maybe?
Anyway, when you let it slide down fast, more of the strap comes out meaning more cranks required to fully cock it.
I have had to crank up to 30 times to fully cock it when I let it free-fall.
More like 20 -23 cranks when I let it down controlled.
Less cranking, for me, means more shots before I tire out.

Have you ever noticed what happens on a bait caster reel if no pressure is applied to the spool when a cast is made? Now think about the spool inside your bow when it free falls. If you don't then apply pressure to it while taking up the slack bad things can happen. Thus it is best to lower it by hand so the reel does not free spool. That is probably why they are seeing so many folks that can't get them to drop properly. JMO.
Exactly.

They shouldn't show it doing that in their advertising videos then...
Good point...
 

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I have let my R20 free fall a time or two by accident and I grab the slack and pull it tight when I start cranking until all the slack is gone then crank the string back. I saw a pic the other day where a crank cord had been chewed up by the crank. That probably happened when it doubled over on itself cranking in slack.
 
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