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FD
Is there a way to reset the elevation to zero?
I fired at 40 and lost an arrow


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Discussion Starter #84
FD
Is there a way to reset the elevation to zero?
I fired at 40 and lost an arrow


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The only thing I could suggest is to rotate the turret CW then CCW counting the turns, then half that # of turns. That will put you turret zero which should be reticle zero.
FD
 

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FD.. have you shot your Center Punch arrows with100 Gr. tips and lighted nocks through a chrono with your Viper? Just curious what speeds you showed. I don't have a chrono, so I'm only guesstimating my speed when I'm dialing in my Evo X using the speed ring. My one and only shot at 20 yards was pretty high and I believe I conservatively had the speed ring set on 370 fps, which obviously means it needed to be dialed up to a faster speed. Thanks for any information you can provide FD!
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Good evening,
Are you golden at 40 yards as your zero? Everything else is based off a dead on zero at 40 yards.
Mine with EVO X arrows/100 gr. is set for 375.
Be positive that you are on at 40, then shoot out to 60. If you are low then slow the dial. If you are high then increase the speed dial. The speed dial value is a reference, not actual fps. It's close but not perfect. Your target practice is the real speed dial position once the POA and POI is the same
here to help,
George
 

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(y) Thanks George! No 40 yard attempt yet. I got the one shot off at 20 yards and then either flipped my safety on after the shot, (too many years of rifle shooting) or I just didn't seat the block far enough on to the string before I re-cocked it. Either way, I was stuck on the DFI and that ended my range outing. Had to go home and investigate my options, being as I couldn't get it to de-cock in order to get the string off the DFI. Turns out I just didn't crank it up tight enough to release the pressure, as I feared busting the crank by winching on it. I should be okay once I get back out there though.(y)
 

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Discussion Starter #88
(y) Thanks George! No 40 yard attempt yet. I got the one shot off at 20 yards and then either flipped my safety on after the shot, (too many years of rifle shooting) or I just didn't seat the block far enough on to the string before I re-cocked it. Either way, I was stuck on the DFI and that ended my range outing. Had to go home and investigate my options, being as I couldn't get it to de-cock in order to get the string off the DFI. Turns out I just didn't crank it up tight enough to release the pressure, as I feared busting the crank by winching on it. I should be okay once I get back out there though.(y)
When I slide my trigger box down the rail I always make sure I push the box so that the string deflects forward. This insures I pass the DFI and set the trigger gate. I also don't let the trigger box drop by itself, I hold the thumb knob on the trigger box and guide it down the rail after pressing the catch release. I too had to uncock after only setting the DFI but this only happened once.

Once you get 40 zeroed, the rest is a piece of cake. Just remember, dead 40 is the most critical part of the setup. Your elevation turret is the most important at 40. Once your 40 is perfect on elevation, cap the elevation turret so you don't make further adjustments at other yardages. The other yardages are determined by the speed dial with regards to elevation.

Now, shoot at 60 or 80 is you have the space. Here you want to make two adjustments: 1) correct any windage to get you centered FIRST. Then, adjust the speed dial by 5 FPS to now set the speed dial to get you on bulls eye relative to actual bow FPS. The speed dial has NO affect on the 40 yard reticle, only all others based on actual FPS.

After that, have a great time shooting at distances you never thought you could. It is a very rewarding accomplishment to shoot at extended distances. You'll find your marksmanship skills increase to a point that you never thought possible. Then, when season comes around and that 16 pointer walks out at 40, you'll be like superman looking through the scope. It's all about confidence!
Good luck to you.
FD
 

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A 16 pointer? o_O Not where I will be hunting. LOL! I'd be lucky to see an 8 pointer. That is the reality of hunting upstate deer. But it's okay...antler's don't taste good anyway! :p Thanks again FD. Hopefully I will get a chance to finish the process of sighting in on Sunday.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Everybody get sighted in A-Okay?
Had to replace my string today. After 500 shots it began to tater just a bit so, for 29.00 she is all ready to go again.
Anyone that does their own string or desires too, it's a very easy task with two aluminum pins rather buying a press or having a shop do it. Let me know and I'll post a pic on the process.
Hope everyone is safe and healthy in this crazy time!
FD
 

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Everybody get sighted in A-Okay?
Had to replace my string today. After 500 shots it began to tater just a bit so, for 29.00 she is all ready to go again.
Anyone that does their own string or desires too, it's a very easy task with two aluminum pins rather buying a press or having a shop do it. Let me know and I'll post a pic on the process.
Hope everyone is safe and healthy in this crazy time!
FD
That’s cool! Yes sir sighted in and ready! Good luck to you


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Discussion Starter #93
Hey Viper Clan,
I have some tech notes to share that may aid in the maintenance and understanding of our bows that is not mentioned in the manuals. I'll post them as discovered, So, here's the first one.

Cam Lean: The Viper requires positive cam lean for two reasons. One, limiting string to rail pressure that reduces wear and two, increases speed slightly. This is easily checked with this simple method. Cams out of lean can cause accuracy issues.

Lay a known perfect arrow, .001" grade, with a field point on the top of the cam as shown and pinch with your finger to hold flat on the cam. Slide the field point end toward the riser/limb bolt until it lines up with the bolt head as shown. IF the point lines up at center of the bolt then you have neutral cam lean. You do not want the point to be below center of the bolt. Optimal cam lean is as shown, point at the top edge of the bolt head. Check both sides and compare. Optimal cams will be identical point position.
The lower cable can be adjusted by adding twist if you are not positive enough. However, only adjust adding 1/2 turn at a time. Test shoot and recheck. If you have a shop make adjustments, "Tune", your bow be sure they adjust your cams to this angle to insure you get all the benefits of proper cam lean.
Hope this helps!

More to come, ASMS
FD
 

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Discussion Starter #95
An item that can and will happen if not followed correctly is that the cocking strap can be damaged by the internal Accuslide gear.
When cocking is complete setting the trigger box into the catch, reverse winding on a Viper requires at minimum 2 revolutions. After the firing the bow, care must be taken when releasing the catch lever not to let the trigger box free fall OR slide the trigger down the rail extremely fast with the thumb knob. What can happen is that the strap spool can spin very fast and "unspool" the strap leaving slack inside the crank box that is now able to find its way between the gear set damaging the strap. This is similar to a bait casting fishing reel where it "Bird nests" if allowed to free spool to fast.

So, to eliminate this possibility be sure to guide the trigger box down the rail in a controlled slower speed that allows the strap to maintain minimal slack/back lash due to free spooling.
Have a great day!
FD
 

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Discussion Starter #96
A 16 pointer? o_O Not where I will be hunting. LOL! I'd be lucky to see an 8 pointer. That is the reality of hunting upstate deer. But it's okay...antler's don't taste good anyway! :p Thanks again FD. Hopefully I will get a chance to finish the process of sighting in on Sunday.
Bull Dog,
Been seeing that bruiser now for the past week like clock work. Weather here has cooled down into the 50's at night and the activity is getting hot. Lot's of does 30-45 minutes before sun set on the clover and apples.
Getting closer every day! Can't wait.
FD
 

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Discussion Starter #97
I can share positively that IF you dry fire the bow and the DFI does its job then you will bend the 3/32" catch lever pivot pin for the catch claws that hold the trigger box at the full retracted, cocked, position. This damage will cause the catch claws to not turn down enough and allow clearance of the trigger box 1/8" retention pin. One DF will now cause the trigger box pin to be pushed over the claws due to the bent catch lever pin. A second DF you will not be able to advance the trigger box at all and the 3/32" pin will need replacement.
Having to "bump" the trigger box over the catch release is evidence of a DF. No if ands or buts about it.

Yesterday I replaced this pin for a gent that seemed to remember dry firing the bow after I showed him the bent pin.:whistle: So, dry fires do happen at times. When they do, this pin will bend and needs replaced.
Good luck,
FD
 

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Hey Viper Clan,
I have some tech notes to share that may aid in the maintenance and understanding of our bows that is not mentioned in the manuals. I'll post them as discovered, So, here's the first one.

Cam Lean: The Viper requires positive cam lean for two reasons. One, limiting string to rail pressure that reduces wear and two, increases speed slightly. This is easily checked with this simple method. Cams out of lean can cause accuracy issues.

Lay a known perfect arrow, .001" grade, with a field point on the top of the cam as shown and pinch with your finger to hold flat on the cam. Slide the field point end toward the riser/limb bolt until it lines up with the bolt head as shown. IF the point lines up at center of the bolt then you have neutral cam lean. You do not want the point to be below center of the bolt. Optimal cam lean is as shown, point at the top edge of the bolt head. Check both sides and compare. Optimal cams will be identical point position.
The lower cable can be adjusted by adding twist if you are not positive enough. However, only adjust adding 1/2 turn at a time. Test shoot and recheck. If you have a shop make adjustments, "Tune", your bow be sure they adjust your cams to this angle to insure you get all the benefits of proper cam lean.
Hope this helps!

More to come, ASMS
FD
How critical is it that they have the exact same point position left to right? Mine only has 5 shots through it and they aren't the same so I have to assume that it came from the factory like that
 

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Discussion Starter #99
How critical is it that they have the exact same point position left to right? Mine only has 5 shots through it and they aren't the same so I have to assume that it came from the factory like that
How much are you referring too? Are they both positive as shown in the pics? Post some pics of the L and R.
FD
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Another item to check for maintenance is the screws that hold the center cable yoke. Two screws come up from the bottom of the rail and only accessible with the stock off. On the right side of the trigger box is a set screw toward the rear of the box, remove the set screw . This releases the strap. Stock has three screws to remove and then slide the front of the stock down then forward. Flip the bow over and check the two screws for tightness. Mine were loose. HOWEVER, I have over 500 shots through my bow. Mine being loose created a knock while cocking the bow.
Permatex makes a orange loctite that I really like. It's between blue and red but service removable. Keeps screws tight better than the blue. I highly recommend to using loctite on fasteners on this bow, like any other bow, or screws will come loose
Keep on shooting!
FD
 
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