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Got a question, does it matter if you can read the yardage in the RF. Doesn't it transfer the info to the scope and the proper aiming dot lights up. Talking about the Sig
I would imagine so. I guess if the RF cannot "see" the target, then neither can you to aim ethically.
 

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Got a question, does it matter if you can read the yardage in the RF. Doesn't it transfer the info to the scope and the proper aiming dot lights up. Talking about the Sig
If you have it set up to do so yes you can see the yardage in the scope when using the RF. We are talking about our scopes set on a Ballistic hold which is basically the same as you will see using a speed dial scope.
 

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Good point Joe - I would think you’d need to be on target though.
 

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I double checked the Vendetta on the R10 again today and it’s still a bit off, I’ll have to send it to Leupold to get the beam and laser collimated.

I put my other VendettaI on the R10 and sighted it in with the laser. This time I stapled the 12” cutout onto a stick and set it at the end of the driveway which was 35 yards. Instead of scanning, I just kept pressing the thumb switch and panning left to right on the 12’ circle. I was able to go the full distance from the crosshair center to past the horizontal crosshair plus about another half of that subtend - in each direction.

At 5x the Z3’s subtend is 5” so another half gives me about 7 1/2” in each direction plus the original 12” for a total of about 27” total. When I was scanning yesterday, I figured the beam divergence was about 8” at 10 yards. If I extrapolate that out to 35 yards I get 28” so the 2 seem to verify each other.

Nice to know that I can pick up a deer in fairly open terrain but maybe not so much in the woods between trees which RT2 was concerned about a few years ago.

(I’m still waiting on a hunter version reticle for the Crossfire II). (y)


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fullsizeoutput_d7a.jpeg
 

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Never had to look at that issue Tim. On my property both of my stands look out over soybean/corn field or hay field. I have not experienced "interference" of other objects because my aim points are wide open. Interesting DOE you have conducted. Good work!
FD
 

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I purchased the Crossfire 2 scope for my Swat XP. Is a Caldwell Field Pod going to be acceptable to sight my Crossbow in or am I going to need sand bags and a bench?
Thank you for your thoughts !
 

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I had the standard Fieldpod and it was a tad shaky, so I epoxied some nylon in the bottom of the center shaft, taped it 1/4”-20, screwed in a hook, and hung weights on it to hold it steady.

I sold it and bought the Fieldpod MAX - much sturdier on it own. Good luck.
 

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I had the standard Fieldpod and it was a tad shaky, so I epoxied some nylon in the bottom of the center shaft, taped it 1/4”-20, screwed in a hook, and hung weights on it to hold it steady.

I sold it and bought the Fieldpod MAX - much sturdier on it own. Good luck.
Thanks for your response Tim. I do have a Calwell Field Pod Max. Is that sufficient to take an 80 yard shot? I sight in at my County Park Archery Range and the Range goes out to 100 yards. I would prefer not to move a Picnic Table and use sand bags.
Thanks for your help!
 

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The will test your skills more the the Fieldpod Max imo.

Have a nice chair to relax in behind the max and you should be fine.

However i like to cheat - I use the Caldwell DRT bench rest off the tailgate on my truck for as stable a rest I can get.
 
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Follow the video on YouTube and you'll be pounding bullseye's in no time. Sight turrets in at 40 dead zero, then shoot at 80 and adjust speed ring only to bring up or down your poi.
Good luck
The manual that came with the scope stated you should set the speed ring at 60 yards. Is that correct? I called Vortex and they didn't know.
Thanks Don
 

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If you have no experience with speed scopes, do this:
Bench shoot at 40 yard zero and adjust your turrets W&E to get zero. Be sure you are spot on with one arrow.
Once you are perfect at 40, CAP THE TURRETS AND DO NOT ALTER FOR THE REMAING SETUP. You do not make any further turret adjustments once 40 yard zero is completed.
Set the speed ring to an appropriate speed for your bow and arrow weight.
Shoot at 60: IF you are LOW, adjust speed ring slightly slower speed until your POI is spot on. IF you are HIGH, adjust the speed ring slightly higher.
Shoot at 80: Complete the same process at 80.
Shoot at 100: this will fine tune the speed dial from 20-100.

DO NOT use multiple arrows unless they are proven match grade quality or you will chase your tail due to inconsistent arrow performance.
The biggest mistake I see folks make is that they adjust the turrets for other yardages rather altering the speed ring. AGAIN, once your 40 yard zero is perfect, CAP the turrets.

The CF2 has some of the best glass and low light conditions. It also has the best and most accurate ballistics from 20-100 yards. IMHO after testing a great many "speed" scopes.
Good luck,
FD
 

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If you have no experience with speed scopes, do this:
Bench shoot at 40 yard zero and adjust your turrets W&E to get zero. Be sure you are spot on with one arrow.
Once you are perfect at 40, CAP THE TURRETS AND DO NOT ALTER FOR THE REMAING SETUP. You do not make any further turret adjustments once 40 yard zero is completed.
Set the speed ring to an appropriate speed for your bow and arrow weight.
Shoot at 60: IF you are LOW, adjust speed ring slightly slower speed until your POI is spot on. IF you are HIGH, adjust the speed ring slightly higher.
Shoot at 80: Complete the same process at 80.
Shoot at 100: this will fine tune the speed dial from 20-100.

DO NOT use multiple arrows unless they are proven match grade quality or you will chase your tail due to inconsistent arrow performance.
The biggest mistake I see folks make is that they adjust the turrets for other yardages rather altering the speed ring. AGAIN, once your 40 yard zero is perfect, CAP the turrets.

The CF2 has some of the best glass and low light conditions. It also has the best and most accurate ballistics from 20-100 yards. IMHO after testing a great many "speed" scopes.
Good luck,
FD
The glass is really good!!
If you have no experience with speed scopes, do this:
Bench shoot at 40 yard zero and adjust your turrets W&E to get zero. Be sure you are spot on with one arrow.
Once you are perfect at 40, CAP THE TURRETS AND DO NOT ALTER FOR THE REMAING SETUP. You do not make any further turret adjustments once 40 yard zero is completed.
Set the speed ring to an appropriate speed for your bow and arrow weight.
Shoot at 60: IF you are LOW, adjust speed ring slightly slower speed until your POI is spot on. IF you are HIGH, adjust the speed ring slightly higher.
Shoot at 80: Complete the same process at 80.
Shoot at 100: this will fine tune the speed dial from 20-100.

DO NOT use multiple arrows unless they are proven match grade quality or you will chase your tail due to inconsistent arrow performance.
The biggest mistake I see folks make is that they adjust the turrets for other yardages rather altering the speed ring. AGAIN, once your 40 yard zero is perfect, CAP the turrets.

The CF2 has some of the best glass and low light conditions. It also has the best and most accurate ballistics from 20-100 yards. IMHO after testing a great many "speed" scopes.
Good luck,
FD
Thank you Farm Deer for your help!! Would it be wise to shoot at 20 yards too and adjust the speed ring and zero at 40 yards? I know I am to start at 6 yards. I also have Spinal Tap arrows from South East Archery.
Thanks!!
 

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20 will follow the ballistics as I explained the tuning process. Complete the above noted process and your 20 will be spot on also.
 

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I always shoot a brand new scope on my crossbow at 10 yards just to make sure it is on target. Make any needed adjustments then shoot at 20 to make certain it is pretty much on and then go to 40 yards with the scope you have and do what FD posted. Other than making certain you aren't going to miss the target completely on your 1st shot I totally agree with FD's post.
 

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I always shoot a brand new scope on my crossbow at 10 yards just to make sure it is on target. Make any needed adjustments then shoot at 20 to make certain it is pretty much on and then go to 40 yards with the scope you have and do what FD posted. Other than making certain you aren't going to miss the target completely on your 1st shot I totally agree with FD's post
I always shoot a brand new scope on my crossbow at 10 yards just to make sure it is on target. Make any needed adjustments then shoot at 20 to make certain it is pretty much on and then go to 40 yards with the scope you have and do what FD posted. Other than making certain you aren't going to miss the target completely on your 1st shot I totally agree with FD's post.
Missing my target at 40 yards was my concern! The scope manual states "Sight in at 6 yards and then zero in at 40 yards" I wanted to take a 20 yard shot to make sure I close before moving to 40 yards to zero .
 

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20 will follow the ballistics as I explained the tuning process. Complete the above noted process and your 20 will be spot on also.
Thanks Farm Deer. I thought it maybe a good idea to dial in at 6 yards verify at 20 yards and zero at 40 yards.
Going from 6 yards to 40 yards is foreign to me, but thats what the instructions states to do. Thanks you for your help on this and the testing you have done on this as well.
 

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Thanks Farm Deer. I thought it maybe a good idea to dial in at 6 yards verify at 20 yards and zero at 40 yards.
Going from 6 yards to 40 yards is foreign to me, but thats what the instructions states to do. Thanks you for your help on this and the testing you have done on this as well.
Yes, getting on paper first is the initial step for any scope. I misunderstood and thought you were asking about the speed ring setting procedure for the ballistics.;) I would think you will be around 360/365 fps on the dial with your setup. A chrono makes it a bit easier to setup but not as fun as sending many arrows down range to tune the scope to your bow/arrow setup.

I've been spoiled since Robert convinced me to try the SIG BDX. I have a CF2 but have fallen in love with the BDX with all the testing I do. However my next choice of non electro-optics is indeed the CF2.

Good Luck and enjoy the scope.
FD
 
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