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Discussion Starter #1
I pulled out the MXB and started checking distances to see how comfortable I can get prior to the season kicking off in a few weeks.
I'm shooting an MXB 360 and using a Trophy Ridge SpeedComp XV530IR. The process calls for you to sight it in at 20, move to 30 and adjust the speed ring to get it on and, theoretically, it will be "on" at the further distances.

Take a look at these pics. I'm good at 30 and 40, but 50 is higher than I think it should be. My plan is to shoot at 60 and see where it is.
Is it possible that it shoots REALLY FLAT from 40 to 50 and I should use the 40 mark when shooting out to 50? That's the only thing I can guess for now.
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Discussion Starter #3
There's a blurb in the manual that mentions xbows with speeds over 430 fps (not mine) and lighter bolt combos may require zeroing at 30 then speed ring adjustment at 40.
Would you recommend that method or sticking with the 20 zero then 40? I know I can tweak this thing to death with trial and error...
 

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I have always sighted in at 20 then gone direct to 40 yards with the standard speed scopes. If you have to use the turrets to fine tune at 40 the changes will not be very noticeable at 20 and 30 yards at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Roger that. I'll try tuning the ring at 40 and see where it's hitting and work backwards from there.
 

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No offense but I think you need different shafts, you should be able to group better than that at those distances unless you’re shooting off hand. Good luck.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
My Spynal Taps group almost on top of each other until 50 yards. I'm using these bolts as "general" guides to get close then I use my game day bolts to ensure I'm zeroed. Once I re-work my zero this weekend, I should be able to see them tighten up.
 

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Even though the instructions tell one zero at 20 then set speed ring then shoot at 30 doesn't mean you are finished. At 40 or 50 yards you will need to farther adjust the speed ring until dead on. Then check back.
Speed rings aren't very accurate but guides.
Since you are high at 40 increase speed on dail. Increase by 50 fps to see change.
Use same arrow only until the speed dial is set. Then adjust for groupings with turrets.
 
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I have always sighted in at 20 then gone direct to 40 yards with the standard speed scopes. If you have to use the turrets to fine tune at 40 the changes will not be very noticeable at 20 and 30 yards at all.
Robert saved me tons of grief when I first started using speed scopes. What he has shared works for majority of speed scopes that start with sighting in at 20 yards. His info is so spot on and easy to process. Thanks for sharing Robert!
 
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I used to have one but forgot what the reticle looks like. What ever the yardage is for the center crosshair - that is the only yardage that the elevation turret is used to set. The speed ring governs the rest of the yardages (and hopefully the algorithms are correct).

What is the center crosshair yardage showing on the Trophy Ridge reticle - 20, 30, or 40 yards?
 

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I found this in my photos but I don’t know what reticle it is for. If it is, then the turret would be used to set the 20 yard center crosshair, and the speed ring to set the rest.

I’d pick whichever you think would b your maximum shooting distance (40 for 50 yards) and use the speed ring to get that yardage dead nuts. It should not affect the initial 20 yards though. Good luck.

fullsizeoutput_c5b.jpeg
 

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I have that same scope. I set 20 then adjust the ring at 30. 40 is dead on. I've only shot at 50 a handful of times and it is real close as well. I think a lot of your problem is the arrows. Use just 1 single arrow and see what you get. The slightest twitch at longer distances along with canting the bow really shows up at longer distances. I'd start over with the Tapps and see if things improve.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I spent the last hour shooting one Tapp but also adjusted my speed ring up about 20-25 fps which seems to have been the ticket. I’ve got to work on some fine tuning from here but I think I’ve got it generally “good” and can now focus on the little adjustments.
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(y) The farther back you shoot you can get the windage set better for all of the other yardages.
 

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As far as sighting some bows in at 30, it can be necessary with bows as slow as 380 FPS, on the Darton 150 with the scope mount the center line of the scope was almost 3 in above the rail. This creates enough Arch to bring the arrow up to meet the Centerline of the scope and not drop quick enough to catch 30 yards when zeroed at 20, but me and others found by zeroing at 30, you could retain 40 and Beyond for zero at 10 yard intervals, or extremely close to it. Just a heads up as scope height above the rail will affect the trajectory of you arrow as you start out with a more extreme arch the higher the scope is mounted to reach you first zero point!

As for sighting in at 20, then going to 40 is the way I zero scopes, or zero at 30 and adjust speed ring at 50. As this usually only takes three or four shots. But if I want aiming points beyond closer, then I go to 60 on that scope, or any scope that uses the center of the scope for it closest aiming point, fine adjusting the speed ring at 60 yards, this effects everything less the closer you get to your main zero.


Just remember what you do at forty effects 30 and 50 very very little, but if you sight in 30 and adjust at 60, you still have made very minut adjustments the closer you get to your main zero. It is all minute of angle, and field of view, controlled by magnification, to accommodate any speed.
 

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Great shooting Stalker! That set are keepers.
 
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