In case some one might be interested I did some speed tests using the Barnett Ghost 410. I used the same stock Head Hunter Arrow (bolt) and just swapped points. For a chronograph, the Pro Chrony Digital Chronograph was used, set up approximately 5 feet in front of the crossbow. The crossbow was set at 20" axle to axles as per manufactures specification and cams were in time. The cables, string and rail were lubricated before each set of three shots. The results are as follows:
22" Barnett Head Hunter with 76.0 gr. point=total weight 408.6 grain--414, 414, 414 fps.
22" Barnett Head Hunter with Saunders field point 99.0 gr.=total weight 431.4 gr.--405, 406, 405 fps.
22" Barnett Head Hunter with 124.6 gr. field point=total weight 457.0 gr.--396, 395, 395 fps.
All the best

Should be even faster with the chrono closer to the bow.I usually set mine about 3 feet if not a little closer.As long as its more than a arrow length away from the bow.

 

Thanks for sharing.I was wondering how slow those 125gr's were flying.lol

 

Wow, smokin' fast, congrats!

 

How accurate are those headhunter arrows my buddy had grouping issues with his and he ordered the black eagle executioners and they solved his problem with the groupings he had like 3 out of a dozen head hunters shoot okay

 

How accurate are those headhunter arrows my buddy had grouping issues with his and he ordered the black eagle executioners and they solved his problem with the groupings he had like 3 out of a dozen head hunters shoot okay

So far I am having excellent results shooting the Barnett Head Hunter 22" arrows. I shoot about 1/2" apart on a horizontal line. I just keep moving over or change my elevation as any more then two shots in the same hole and I start going through my Bull Dog Plus crossbow target. I have a Morrel Yellow Jacket target bag behind for a security back up. I've been doing lots of testing with the crossbow set up in a bench style rest for sighting in a rifle. Using this system, I am not torqueing the crossbow. I also have levels mounted on the bench rest. The bench rest is set up on a solid bench. I shot several xx75 Easton Aluminum 2413 arrows cut down to 22". I modified the nocks but being the 2413 is a larger diameter shaft than the Barnett Head Hunter, the nocks did not line up at the same level and a few nocks blew off leaving the crossbow. The arrow still hit where I aimed at the target. I've been searching for the proper diameter 1/2 moon nock for that size of shaft, but so far no luck. I have found them for the 2219. All the best.

 

In case some one might be interested I did some speed tests using the Barnett Ghost 410. I used the same stock Head Hunter Arrow (bolt) and just swapped points. For a chronograph, the Pro Chrony Digital Chronograph was used, set up approximately 5 feet in front of the crossbow. The crossbow was set at 20" axle to axles as per manufactures specification and cams were in time. The cables, string and rail were lubricated before each set of three shots. The results are as follows:
22" Barnett Head Hunter with 76.0 gr. point=total weight 408.6 grain--414, 414, 414 fps.
22" Barnett Head Hunter with Saunders field point 99.0 gr.=total weight 431.4 gr.--405, 406, 405 fps.
22" Barnett Head Hunter with 124.6 gr. field point=total weight 457.0 gr.--396, 395, 395 fps.
All the best

Wow that's fast. my 410 is way slower. chrono a few inches from arrow and i get 370-340 fps with the head hunter (438g). very dissapointed in the spread and maximum. i've chron'd 3 times now and i have gotten 370, 350, 340 with 3 shot samples vertually every time. lubing string and rail. where the heck are your 400's comiing from.... good accuracy but certainly not your velocities.

 

sailor614: providing your axle to axle is 20" per the manual (in the uncocked position), your cams are timed and level, add equal twists to the cables, but not such that you start wrapping the "Y" section. You will need a bow press to make the cable adjustments.You want to maintain the "Y". When you do the chronograph test, pick one arrow and shoot it repeatedly. Using multiple arrows, their weight can vary + or - a few grains. I use the Pro Digital Chronograph and have even set it an arrows length from the stirrup to the first light bar of the chronograph and have not detected any speed difference. Being I shoot in my shop when using the chronograph, this is why I use the light system. Without the light system you tend to get in accurate readings. I'm set up using a gun type bench rest and shoot through the same area of the chronograph. Shooting a bit to the side or higher or lower than a previous shot will also give a difference in reading. Different brands of chronographs may vary a bit in readings but as long as you use the same one, you will get a consistant reading pattern. Keep the cables and string well lubricated and a light coat on the rail. As the coating on the rail starts to disappear, you will gradually see a drop in arrow speed. I lube the rail approximately every five shots and keeping the string and cable well lubricated every 5 to 10 shots. For every 10 grains of arrow-point combination over the basic 400 grain, you will loose 3 feet per second speed. For your arrow-point weight of 438 grains, at the most you would loose 10 to 12 feet per second from the advertised speed of 410 feet per second. All the best.

 

I really don't care how fast an arrow is traveling at the bow. To me the fps matters when the arrow strikes the deer/turkey/target down range. I set my ProChrono at the target. I shoot a Scorpyd Orion 160 and it is so accurate I have absolutely no fear of hitting the ProChrono. I shoot BEE's with a 100-gr field point. I made a video with the ProChrono at the target, from 10, 20, 30 and 40 yards.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yv9FRsqJaic

Bobby.

 

Like bltefft, at the target is the speed I want to know, so that's where my chrono is. But, I can see where having it just off the bow can help with checking your bows setup.

 

sailor614: providing your axle to axle is 20" per the manual (in the uncocked position), your cams are timed and level, add equal twists to the cables, but not such that you start wrapping the "Y" section. You will need a bow press to make the cable adjustments.You want to maintain the "Y". When you do the chronograph test, pick one arrow and shoot it repeatedly. Using multiple arrows, their weight can vary + or - a few grains. I use the Pro Digital Chronograph and have even set it an arrows length from the stirrup to the first light bar of the chronograph and have not detected any speed difference. Being I shoot in my shop when using the chronograph, this is why I use the light system. Without the light system you tend to get in accurate readings. I'm set up using a gun type bench rest and shoot through the same area of the chronograph. Shooting a bit to the side or higher or lower than a previous shot will also give a difference in reading. Different brands of chronographs may vary a bit in readings but as long as you use the same one, you will get a consistant reading pattern. Keep the cables and string well lubricated and a light coat on the rail. As the coating on the rail starts to disappear, you will gradually see a drop in arrow speed. I lube the rail approximately every five shots and keeping the string and cable well lubricated every 5 to 10 shots. For every 10 grains of arrow-point combination over the basic 400 grain, you will loose 3 feet per second speed. For your arrow-point weight of 438 grains, at the most you would loose 10 to 12 feet per second from the advertised speed of 410 feet per second. All the best.

Axles measure 20.31 and not the same position exactly.

 

Like bltefft, at the target is the speed I want to know, so that's where my chrono is. But, I can see where having it just off the bow can help with checking your bows setup.

I found this for you two tines or anybody else interested.http://www.bestcrossbowsource.com/crossbow-arrow-ballistics-calculator

 

sailor614: one limb may be a shade stronger or a shade weaker than the other one.

Stalker: thanks for the information regarding the calculator. Greatly appreciated.

 

Like bltefft, at the target is the speed I want to know, so that's where my chrono is. But, I can see where having it just off the bow can help with checking your bows setup.

True, I did set the ProChrono at the bow, just to get a starting fps, before I didi the 10, 20, 30, 40-yard test.

 

stalker, thanks for calculator info, was interesting

 

I found this for you two tines or anybody else interested.http://www.bestcrossbowsource.com/crossbow-arrow-ballistics-calculator

I call BS on their Raptor FX review, S! :bad:

 

I call BS on their Raptor FX review, S! :bad:

?????

 

I call BS on their Raptor FX review, S! :bad:

I never saw a Raptor FX review, did I miss something?

 

I never saw a Raptor FX review, did I miss something?

If you do a search for the crossbow "PHANTOM 309" mentions on Amazon there are lots of reviews there. The majority are 5 stars. What I did notice, a few had early string breakage. A few had the plastic part that puts slight pressure on the arrow in the loaded position broke. My thought on this part breaking: 1)improper setting, 2)not careful enough when cocking or inserting the arrow. Mention was also made of an enclosed spare one to the fact that some of the reviewers felt Barnett new of this as a weak spot. Both of my Barnett Ghost 410 came with spare ones. For all they are probably worth, I feel it is pretty nice to have a spare one on hand. As for the increase in speed in feet per second over the advertised speed, here are a few possibilities: 1)use of stronger limbs, 2)using slightly shorter cables or adding extra twists to the cables. If the crossbow is shooting below the advertised speed with proper axle to axle measurement, cams timed and leveled, one just has to add equal twists or 1/2 twists to each cable to increase the speed while using the same arrow-point combination based on the basic 400 grain formula. All the best.

 

This is what I have a hard time on, for added FPS you add twists to cables only? What are the benefits of adding twists to string only, what does that change?

 

This is what I have a hard time on, for added FPS you add twists to cables only? What are the benefits of adding twists to string only, what does that change?

I by no means am a pro on this twist the strings or cable for more speed thing. But would think the limbs and strings are made to be syncronized to work together, and any shortening of the strings would put stress on the strings, and the limbs for that matter. I understand if your doing it for tuning purposes, but to add speed seems like it may be harmful to the xbow, just thinking out loud.

 

I call BS on their Raptor FX review, S! :bad:

Duh! I get it now.Your talking about that sites review.I've never been there before.Just to look at the calculator.

 

I by no means am a pro on this twist the strings or cable for more speed thing. But would think the limbs and strings are made to be syncronized to work together, and any shortening of the strings would put stress on the strings, and the limbs for that matter. I understand if your doing it for tuning purposes, but to add speed seems like it may be harmful to the xbow, just thinking out loud.

If your crossbow is shooting less than what the advertised speed is and using the basic 400 formula, one has to add equal twists or 1/2 twists to each cable to bring it to spec. Just remember, for every 10 grain the arrow-point combination is over the basic 400, you lose 3 feet per second. Say for example I am shooting the 22" Barnett Head Hunter arrow with an arrow-point combination of 432 grain. I am 32 grains over the 400. Divide this by 10 = 3.2 x 3 (loss in speed for every 10 grain over the 400) = 9.6 feet per second. My cross bow is designed to shoot a 400 grain arrow at 410 feet per second. Take the 410 and subtract the 9.6 = 400.4 feet per second. Using a digital chronograph, set an arrow length in front of the crossbow stirrup your reading should be very close to what the formula calculation gave. All the best.

 

sorry about the hijack. Any of you guys with the 410 have any luck with the cross variable zoom speed control scope that came on the 410? Is it a nice scope or is it an instant swap out? I am thinking of picking one up on craigslist for $50 bucks. Guy says it's perfect and he already had a hawke xb so he's selling it.

 

radich: Both of my Barnett Ghost 410 cross bows came with the fixed 3x32. On one of the cross bows I swapped the scope and put on an Opitex 3-9 power x32. I had received this scope several years ago as a safety award. I enjoy using it for 40 yards and beyond and find it is much clearer than the stock cross scope. I am using the stick on targets with the red dot in the center. A dime will cover this dot so this is where the variable scope power is beneficial. All the best.

 

Do not twist cables or string purely to add speed ! This is a good way to damage your bow. Adding twists to the cables and or string are to bring the bow in to spec. By spec I mean proper axle to axle measurement and to bring the cams into matching positions "time".
Your string and cables should never be twisted below their specified length. For example a Razr should have 20" cables and a 41" string. This should leave the bow at its specified axle to axle and proper cam timing as well as cam orientation. Never go beyond manufacture specs ! If your bow is in spec and not shooting it's specified speed contact customer service.
Do not twist cables or string purely to add speed ! This is a good way to damage your bow. Adding twists to the cables and or string are to bring the bow in to spec. By spec I mean proper axle to axle measurement and to bring the cams into matching positions "time".
Your string and cables should never be twisted below their specified length. For example a Razr should have 20" cables and a 41" string. This should leave the bow at its specified axle to axle and proper cam timing as well as cam orientation. Never go beyond manufacture specs ! If your bow is in spec and not shooting it's specified speed contact customer service.