That’s a lot imo. I use a 24” metal scale and can easily detect any amount of gap.

I just put new cables on my R10 and the cams came out dead nuts level. I couldn’t even get a .002”/.003” feeler gauge in at the edges. I’m really happy how they turned out.

 

Put a half twist on the top cable and take a half twist off the bottom cable on that cam. Repeat if necessary but I doubt that it will need it.

 

My compliments Robert, you’ve certainly learned well and your advice is spot on. There’s usually only two things that attribute to cam lean. The first and easiest to notice is when either of the axle retainer clips are lost on the end of the cam axles.

The other is when there’s an imbalance in the number of cable twists between the upper and lower cable connection points. You cover the twist issue, so I’m just throwing the cam axle clips out to cover the bases.

 

If you have 30 or so shots on it do what Robertyb said if not I would wait so you don't have to do it twice. Let everything get stretched out.

 

cam lean is a can of worms.. you're going to get a lot of well-meaning answers on this cam lean subject. From what Ravin told me is it's not such a big deal even if there is a little bit of Cam lean. With their type of system it doesn't affect it as much as one would think. I suggest you call Ravin and they will explain in detail what they consider cam lean and how to resove the issue if warranted.

 

I would think if you had enough cam lean where the cable touched that cam peg - that would be a helluva lot more lean than you'd want imo.

 

I'm with Bowmanmt all the way on the subject of Ravin cam lean.
I too used to use a .001 arrow laid across the cams to inspect for cam lean. But when you think about it in a little more depth, split limbs most likely can rarely be matched perfectly throughout their flex cycle. Sure, laying a straight edge across the cams with the bow uncocked can help with balancing your limbs in a more static mode.

But cock the crossbow and your slightly mismatched split limbs can still introduce a vertical force component to the arrow upon launch. Hence Ravin engineers have a great suggestion here. Why not cock the crossbow and look at each cam from the end looking straight down the string. Now visually center the string in the cam groove and observe if the cam lobes or cam pulleys are centered between the cables.
In my opinion, this provides a more dynamic solution to the cam lean issue and I greatly appreciate Bowmanmt pursuing this further by contacting Ravin.

 

I'm with Bowmanmt all the way on the subject of Ravin cam lean.
I too used to use a .001 arrow laid across the cams to inspect for cam lean. But when you think about it in a little more depth, split limbs most likely can rarely be matched perfectly throughout their flex cycle. Sure, laying a straight edge across the cams with the bow uncocked can help with balancing your limbs in a more static mode.

But cock the crossbow and your slightly mismatched split limbs can still introduce a vertical force component to the arrow upon launch. Hence Ravin engineers have a great suggestion here. Why not cock the crossbow and look at each cam from the end looking straight down the string. Now visually center the string in the cam groove and observe if the cam lobes or cam pulleys are centered between the cables.
In my opinion, this provides a more dynamic solution to the cam lean issue and I greatly appreciate Bowmanmt pursuing this further by contacting Ravin.

Thanks Bill. We are fortunate to have guys like you and WWB that continue to raise the bar for excellence with the Ravin brand .

 

Thanks for all the detailed feedback. I only have about 8 shots on it after the last adjustment cycle (each with wait periods of 10-60 mins), so will get closer to 30 shots and inspect again. Will also inspect as BB1 mentioned. Thanks again. I'll report back.

 

Oh, and just to add since it may be relevant: I'm not at all concerned about chasing 1" groups at 100 yds. I enjoy occasional target shooting out to 60 yds (the limit of my backyard), but this bow is primarily just for hunting. I want it to be consistent and accurate out to about 60yds just for good measure, but I'm not entering any competitions here. My main concern is always just the long term health of the bow and the string/cables. Not sure if cam lean may introduce some uneven wear to the string/cables or potentially even the limbs or cam bearings/axles.

 

I've shot several more times now and still no change to the lean. I think I'm going to get it back in the press to put a half twist in that upper left cable just to see what it does. I still intend to call ravin to chat about it, but thinking they are closed today. All the cables are currently at zero twist, so taking a twist out of the bottom left cable isn't an option at this point. Where do you guys put the twist in the cables? At the served end or the unserved end??

Oh, and this is the third time I've had to remove the scope rail after diligently loctiting those screws. You'd think I would have learned by now to not loctite until knowing I was done for sure. I guess I was being too much of an optimist.

 

Where do you guys put the twist in the cables? At the served end or the unserved end??

As “fragile” as the unserved loops are, I don’t think it’s a good idea to twist it.

If I have to add a twist - I think I’d lift the served loop off the brass pulley - push it as far forward as I can towards the heli-coil, cam notch and orange pulley, add 1/2 twist, massage it a bit, and then pull it back thru and install it over the brass pulley.

I would think that might put that 1/2 twist throughout most of the entire cable. If just the loop removed and twisted it place , I’m not sure the twist would affect the cable beyond the heli-coil or cam notch and orange pulley. But maybe it does, it just seems like it’s a pinch point that could inhibit it.

 

I just pull the end beside the bow and put a twist in or take a twist out. Never had any problems doing so. I don't twist the loop itself but grab the cable at the edge of the loop and put the twist in the cable.

 

Alright! That half twist did the trick. Cams are nice and flat now after several shots on it. Old girl is all tuned up with her new strings and ready to rock. Slick as a whistle, and about 10 FPS hot.

Thanks again to all for all the help and advice. I think I'm finally ready for the final application of loctite 😂

 

The R26 in my opinion needs to have as less lean as possible if any because of its narrow ata.

 

Remember you can only twist cables in half turn increments. Will doing this get cam lean perfect all the time? Doubt it.
I check cable tension with small amount of press pressure on bow.
My bows seem to shoot well enough.
A half turn off (one of the cables) comparing a pair of cables on bow with slight press pressure shows up too (can be felt).
Cheers.

PS
Reckon this outfit I am using has any cam lean?
Here i am in the wild not that long ago.
Enjoy

 

Or the bearing goes bad, which I have had happen a couple times now.....🍩

 

Agreed Wapster! Rare but definitely worth mentioning to cover all the bases.