Can I put the factory string on it with the 60x cables?

 

To answer your second post first, as it is much more clear cut. As long as 60X made the string to factory dimensions, and the cables likewise (as I am sure that they would), then there should be no problem in using the factory string with the custom cables.

With regards to the initial problem, I'll be honest - I'm not familiar with the trigger/safety mechanism of the 410, so the following is something of an 'educated guess'.

That said, if you had to move any other part of the trigger group, other than the safety catch itself, in order to make the bow shoot, then I would strongly suspect that you inadvertantly disabled the 'anti-dryfire' mechanism.

Basically, a lot of crossbows are equipped with automatic engaging safety catches, so the safety is activated as soon as you cock the crossbow. Following on from that, a lot of auto safeties incorporate an ADF mechanism. Different companies use different versions, but at the most basic level, an ADF is basically a hinged lever that blocks the safety catch, and prevents it from being switched off if an arrow hasn't been loaded, or isn't loaded correctly. Push an arrow all the way in to the trigger group and the lever pivots, the safety catch is unblocked, and you can switch it to fire.

I would have to guess that while you loaded an arrow, it wasn't fully seated back against the string, and so the ADF blocked the safety to prevent you firing the bow. The other part you moved to release the safety was the ADF, which you disengaged. That allowed the bow to fire with an arrow that wasn't seated correctly, causing a partial dryfire which broke the string.

In any event, whatever the cause may have been, you need to very closely inspect your limbs to ensure that there are no cracks, splinters, delamination, etc. before you find someone to re-install your factory string.

 

I would call Barnett.

 

Looks like the end loop on the right blew out. Did this happen when you shot, or before? If at the shot, then the arrow just falling off to the side would indicate a dry fire, the string jumping the nock. If that's what happened, it needs to get thoroughly checked for any damage that may have happened to it. I would take Stalker's advice.

 

What I have seen the odd time: the bow is properly cocked and an arrow is loaded. The arrow may shift forward a wee
bit due to the bottom vane a shade over size or not quite enough pressure on the finger that rides on top of the arrow. If this happens one cannot take the safety off to fire. I double check each time I load an arrow and if this situation happens, I'll try a different arrow. If the second arrow works properly, then I thoroughly check the first one for vane problem. I did have a lot of problems with this bow when I first got it but have got them solved. I am shooting the Barnett Ghost 410 with 60X string and cables with several thousand shots and have had absolutely no stretch, fraying or serving separation. I found once I properly tuned this bow: shoot an arrow and remove it. The second shot puts an arrow in the same hole. To do this I have the bow mounted in a shooting jig the same as used to properly sight in a rifle.
All the best with getting your bow repaired.

 

4nolz: here is a way to test to see if your safety is coming on when you would normally cock your bow. You can do this test regardless whether your bow string is broken or not. Take a round screw driver or other round object and push back on the claw section that your bow string would when cocking. Push back fairly hard. If your safety is functioning properly, you should not be able to move your trigger. Now slide an arrow in like you would if you were normally loading the bow. Watch from the side to see if the little bar piece lifts as the arrow reaches the fully loaded position. If this piece lifts properly and the arrow is fully back, you should now be able to take your safety off and pull the trigger as you normally would when shooting. Tilt your bow downward. If the arrow tends to slide forward, you do not have enough pressure on the retainer (the part that sits on top of the arrow). To adjust the pressure, your scope has to be removed and using the small allen wrench adjust the allen screw that is directly below where your scope sat. Now just remove your arrow.
For a bow that has the string in tact, just use a shorter arrow section so it fits behind the uncocked bow string.
All the best.

 

Not sure if it's the angle of your pic or not, but I thought the retention spring looked funny. It looks like the curved part at the end broke off, compared to this pic.

 

Yes, I didn't mention it (I was thinking along the lines of dealing with one issue at a time!), but it isn't the angle of the picture - I'm pretty certain that the arrow retainer is damaged. Not knowing at what point that occurred, it's hard to say whether that is a contributing factor to the partial dryfire, or occurred as a result.

If the tip had already broken off the retainer prior to the string breaking, it could well have been the cause of the dryfire.

 

Thanks for all the great replies all very helpful and I really appreciate it! I think the plastic retainer broke at the same time as the string and have to replace it also.I hope be shooting it again(pucker factor!) soon.

 

4nolz: if you look in the package that your crossbow came in, or the package with allen wrenches, lubricant etc. you should have a spare arrow retainer. How ever if you send the bow to Barnett or take it to a Barnett dealer, let then supply the arrow retainer and keep yours for a spare. Loading an arrow, one wants to be gentle as these retainers are very delicate. All the best.