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HORTON NEW and OLD

24K views 48 replies 9 participants last post by  Grimmy  
Grimmy... I owned and shot Horton crossbows for probably over 38 years now. I have owned several of each model of their reverse limb models. I have also worked on many of them and I was pals with the head of customer service at Horton for a couple of tears b4 they went belly up. My honest advice to you would hinge on two things: how much money do you want to spend and what are you going to do with your bow, hunt or just target shoot? Let me be very frank with you: altho there are some Fury owners who are rather happy with their bows, I would not recommend that anyone, unless they have money to burn or just like to experiment, buy a Fury or sink money into a Fury to keep it going. This crossbow was just fraught with too many major problems unless you got one built in the few months right before Horton folded up shop. I loved my Fury deeply... I owned 5 different ones and got rid of them all, even my "perfected" ones because they were too finnicky and had warped barrels, warped down in the center, which could lead to a dry fire situation. They are notorious for blowing strings, cam failures, etc. If you are in the market to replace the Fury, and you intend to hunt, AND you like the reverse limb technology, AND you want to keep cost down, I would suggest looking around (ebay, craigslist, etc.) for a like new or new old stock Horton Vision 175 or Horton Havoc 175. I have seen them recently for around $400.00. Just make sure you get the cocking sled with it as they are about $75.00 if you have to buy one separately. These 2 xbows are not quite as "fast" as the Fury but they are solid, proven xbows with great track records and still PLENTY fast enough to kill deer, elk, etc. (Remember, the higher poundage or 'faster' crossbows are, by nature, harder on strings, cables, cams and limbs. I opt for less speedy but less wear and tear overall.)
I honestly think it is a mistake to sink alot of money into any Fury when a good solid replacement bow can be bought at reasonable prices. If you want to spend a little more money I would highly suggest checking out the new Horton Innovations STORM RDX. It is about $1200.00 for the package WITH Acudraw, which is a crank cocker and a great advantage over hand cocking a crossbow. You can also get the STORM RDX without the Acudraw for around $900.00. If you buy from Wyvern Creations the owner, David, will toss in free arrows which can normally cost upwards of $100.00 or more. The STORM RDX is an AMAZING piece of modern crossbow technology.
Naturally, there are other brands and models of crossbow out there and I am giving you info about Hortons because you are asking questions in this Horton forum. Most experienced crossbow owners / shooters will tell you what I am about to: go out and look at different brands and different models of crossbows before you buy. Hold them, research them, shoot them if you can. Then, if you decide to buy one, research the internet for best prices first. Ebay has alot of crossbows and crossbow supplies, etc. Most of the accessories you want or need are easily found online and often much cheaper than in retail stores. Companies like Bowjax have websites listing their products and will often sell to you directly from their websites at M.S.R.P.. I almost always find better prices if I shop around tho. Good luck on your quest... if you have other questions feel free to ask.
 
Allchokedup... I know all the old Horton reverse draw xbows inside and out. I also have many customers and buddies who have owned them. Over many years of use and experience with these things you can pretty much figure out what is good and what is bad. I have a personal measure of whether or not I would recommend a certain bow to someone or not and that is this: would I recommend it to one of my own sons? That is the metric I use in recommending a crossbow to ANYBODY. If it ain't good enough for the people I care about most in this world, then by God I am not going to offer it up to anybody else. The reCon, Vision and Havoc 175 were / are very solid bows and great performers. I hardly ever saw one fail and usually the only thing they needed was a string / cable change. They utilize beefy one-piece limbs and simple mechanics. Sure, there occasional problems back in their heyday but every bow made has a certain amount of glitches. My main point in recommending them is based on price and platform. IF a person doesn't have $1000.00 or more to spend on a bow but still wants to stay with the reverse draw platform these bows, if in good condition, can be a great buy in the sub $500.00 range. Naturally, if money is no object I would recommend the Storm RDX in a heartbeat. And if a person isn't hooked on the Reverse Draw platform there are numerous "conventional draw" xbows out there in the sub $500.00 to $3000.00 range. And again, in my opinion EVERYONE should avoid the Fury and the Havoc 150. (The Havoc 175 is good... the 150, not so much due to mismatched limb issues etc.) And finally I don’t have a dog in this race, nothing to gain by
recommending any xbow. I CAN tell you this tho: if I was at a swap meet or a yard sale and someone was selling a Vision or Havoc 175 in good shape for under $425.00 I would buy them in a heartbeat. If nothing else they are GREAT backup bows or loaners if you don't want one as your main weapon.
 
Ok... Grimmy, you are 100% right about only shooting it on a limited basis. It might get you thru another hunting season or two if you don't shoot it alot. As far as limb silencers / dampening, you can buy Limbsavers, etc., but if you go on ebay you can find a pack of 4 HORTON LIMB TUNERZ for about 10 bucks shipped. That's like 15 bucks off of what they used to cost. In my opinion, because the Fury is a solid limb bow, if you put two on each limb they will work just as good as the fancier looking Limbsavers. Slap them on and that's all you need. (Coincidentally, we did chrono testing with two Limb Tunerz on each limb on the Fury, Vision and Havoc and found no loss of speed when using them.)
I wouldn't feel too bad about buying that Fury... you got it for basically half price and it was worth the gamble... so no need to beat yourself up much. If it fails on you again you may be able to part it out or sell it whole for parts. There are a few guys out there who love that bow and will continue to spend money on them.
A word on replacement strings for crossbows. I don't know what sort of quality your local shop puts into it's strings but for many years we have been buying replacement strings from a company called ViperX. They make a "Premium" string that is far better than the OEM strings most crossbows come with and they usually cost about $40.00 shipped, give or take 5 bucks. You can also choose colors and combine 2 colors on one string.
Like I said in the previous post, since you are indicating that you like the RDT platform, be sure to check out the Horton STORM RDX before you buy. It should be in the 1 grand price range and it is pretty sweet, a little smaller than the Fury but made like a tank and has a great company behind it. (Ten Point.) Good luck!
 
Allchokedup... you are too nice. I am just telling things like I see them. As you well know, this whole crossbow thing is a huge "if," no matter what crossbow you buy. "IF" you get a 10 Point, new, it might have issues, "IF" you buy a new Excaliber you might get a split limb. "IF" you buy a $1500.00 xbow it might blow up on the first shot... "IF" you buy a $399.00 or cheaper model it might work great for years... "IF" you buy a used crossbow it may perform flawlessly for you ... or not. "IF" you buy a crossbow you may not have much of a learning curve with it, just wax tne strongs, lube it and site it in... or you might get one that confounds you... it might take special arrows or have very specific requirements...like the Tac Elite, for example. I have been doing this "crossbow" thing for almost 4 decades and it really IS a game of "IFs." If you are lucky you will buy your xbow and only have normal wear and tear issues with it. But even the best companies still have occasional issues with their xbows. The BEST bows can split a limb or snap a string...
That's just the way it is. So... we walk that line because we are... extreme crossbow masochists. Ha.
 
Grimmy, Horton recommended 100 gr. MECHANICAL broadheads for the Horton Bone Collector Carbon arrows or the blue 17" Horton Savage Carbon arrows. I never had accuracy issues with the carbon Bone Collectors. I did find that about one in every 6 of the blue Savage arrows was a flyer. I was told by the head of Customer Service at Horton that the BEST choice of arrows for consistent accuracy with Horton's RDT bows are the 2 arrows mentioned above WITH 100 grain field point or 100 grain mech. broadhead. I used those particular arrow combinations and basically got one hole accuracy at 35 yards shooting from a rest with the reCon, Vision, Havoc and Fury.
Horton recommended that you use their Rail Lube like every 20 shots. Do not shoot any pre-10 Point Horton bow without properly lubing the rail. The "finish" on ther RDTs requires lubing. Just don't overdo it, a VERY tiny amount goes a long way, you don't want so much on the rail that it gets pushed into the trigger box, etc., and gums things up. Here is a hint for your arrows if you don't already do it: WAX your shafts. Use bowstring wax, coat the entire shaft and then use your fingers to burnish the wax into the surface of the arrow. If you look at a carbon arrow up close you will notice that many of them do not have a 100% smooth surface. Waxing them reduces friction between them and the barrel / rail and helps in pulling them from your target.
TARGETS: maybe someone else here has better advice for you on targets. I use a BLOB target now. I don't think they are available anymore. I don't understand why you are having issues with your bag targets. I have always recommended the Morrell Yellow Jacket bags rated for 400 fps or more and never got any bad feedback, nor did any of the ones I ever used fail. If you are using cheap bags try to upgrade to a better one and make sure you suspend it from above as hanging them aids in them absorbing energy better, etc., which will often translate to less penetration, easier pulls. If you are still having issues after that you may want to look into some of the more expensive targets out there, Bulldog, Spyderweb, etc.
The one thing I never did was attempt repairs to the limbs or cams on any Fury. That bow was so finnicky I just sent them back to Horton for repairs. I suspect you cannot press the limbs with a regular bow press. I have heard of guys successfully using a field press on the Fury, but that idea scares the crap outta me.
Replacing strings and cables: that depends on bad your Fury eats them. Some Furys were HORRIBLE about consuming strings and cables. Others... not so bad. I ALWAYS replaced my OEM strings with ViperX Premium strings before I ever shot the bow. They last alot longer than the OEMs. Horton officially recommended that you replace them once a year. On the Fury that is probably a great idea, UNLESS it is showing alot of wear before that time. Obviously, if it is showing premature wear change them then.
Naturally, everything I said here is based on my experience, if someone else has more or different info they will hopefully chime in.
 
Jmmaek... when you said "dedication" did you mean "ADDICTION?" Lol... big love, Mike, big love.

Grimmy: Honestly, as far as I am concerned the Havoc 175 (NOT THE HAVOC 150, AVOID THOSE) is just the Vision 175 2.0, meaning it is just an "improved" Vision. The main difference is that the Vision has a "metal finger" that holds the rear of the arrow down while the Havoc has a "ball detent," which is essentially a spring loaded ball bearing that puts downward pressure on the rear of the arrow. Which is better? In theory the ball detent is quiter and less prone to breakage. The "metal retaining finger" on the Vision supposedly vibrates creating some small amount of noise. (Although I never noticed that noise, the Vision is probably the most silent crossbow I have ever seen, next to the Havoc.)
I have heard of a few ball detent failures, but nothing to get excited about. Bottom line here tho is that the finger MAY be a bit louder and can break if you yank that cocking sled up the wrong way too fast, that finger is very easy to replace while the ball detent is a bit more difficult.

So, if those are the main functional differences how do you decide which one to buy? The fingers can break but the rare failure of the ball is harder to fix... that is a personal call. You have the info, so factor in your mechanical abilities and personal philosophy in that area.

Once you decide on that matter then it would come down to a matter of overall condition. Which bow is in better shape and which bow comes with more goodies. By date of manufacture the Havocs are at least a year newer than the Visions, EXCEPT for the fact that when Horton went under the liquidators had bowtechs assemble alot of the remaing parts stock into complete xbows and sold them, SO, there ARE some "newer" Visions out there, but most of them are at least a year older than the Havocs. Does age matter on one of these bows? A little... some folks believe those fiberglass limbs have a finite lifespan... me, not so much... the limbs on these 2 bows are built like a tank. Age matters on the strings and cables tho... they stretch out after time so you may want to factor that in.

Other than that, look for dents on the outer egdes of the cams or cams off center or wobbly. Do check the limbs for chips or splinters. On the Havoc make sure the number of spacers (nylon washers) is the same below and above each cam. It may not sound like a big deal but I saw a couple Havocs with missing or misplaced washers / spacers there and that worried me.

If the condition of both bows is relatively identical I would probably opt for the Havoc 175 just because it is a newer model and you can find different replaceable butt pads for the rear of the stock if you need to add or subtract an inch or so on the back end. You do not have that option on the Vision. HOWEVER, a good, classic Vision 175 with the bronze colored furniture and cams is nothing to dismiss lightly. The quality and appearance of the metalwork is a little better on the Vision, in my opinion, but functionally the 2 bows are basically the same. So if looks don't matter then I would go Havoc 175, but if I bought a Havoc I would go on ebay and try to find a replacement kit for the ball detent just to have on hand and I would order a ViperX Premium string for it, install it right away and save the OEM for a spare.

Hope that helped, tried to give you as much info as I could so you can make an informed decision. You have the tools, now it's up to you... ;+)

One final note: we have seen a few "Frankenstein" Hortons on ebay lately. There was a reCon 175 with Vision 175 limbs on it and we have seen a couple "Vision 175s" built on Havoc stocks. Not sure who built those, and in theory there is nothing wrong with Vision limbs on a Havoc stock, but that stuff is a red flag to me. Try to stick with Horton factory originals.
 
Ignore the pictures. The 175s and 150s both have round cams. The pics you saw of the more radical cams were printed up before Horton actually released the bow. It was SUPPOSED to have those "scorpyd" looking cams but something happened and they went with round cams. My guess is that either the engineering dept. couldn't get those cam to work consistently or Horton couldn't or wouldn't pay the licensing fees to Scorpyd to use those cams. The cams on both the 175 and 150 were black but there may be some bronze colored ones out there, they would still be round tho. About the Havoc 150: I could be wrong but I was told the only reason Horton even produced the Havoc 150 was because they got a bad load of limbs that were not up to the Havoc 175 lb. standard. So rather than trash the entire load of limbs they tried to match them up and make 150s out of them. I don't know, that story sounds crazy but I was told it by someone who worked at Horton at the time...
So how do you tell if you are looking at a Havoc 175 or a 150? If the limbs aren't marked that's a good question. You could chronograph it... the 175 should shoot somewhere between 318-330ish fps with the 17" blue Savage arrows and the 150 will be around 298-305ish. Or maybe find a bowshop with a pound gauge?
I don't know any other way to tell. I have heard there are alot of happy Havoc 150 owners out there but I have also heard complete horror stories about the 150... stories about mismatched limbs and never being able to get the bow to shoot center no matter what the owner does. Your Havoc should be able to shoot pretty much SAME HOLE groups at 35 yards when shooting from a rest. Ask the owner what sort of groups he / she gets at 35 yards. If it is shooting one-hole groups or even 1" groups at 35 yards you will probably have a good bow even if it is a 150... it will just be a little slower.
Also, if the owner is the original purchaser you would think they would still have the box or some paperwork? And finally, if no one chimes in here with better info you might try going over to AT and asking there but don't be surprised if some of the jerks there try to derride you for buying a Havoc. There is a group of arrogant elitists over there who think anyone buying anything other than a $1700.00 Scorpyd is a moron. Just ignore them don't even try to explain your rationale or situation to them, they will just feed on you. Anyway, sorry I couldn't help more. I have one more source to tap on this issue and if I can get you an answer I will be back.
 
Nope. That means nothing. The 17" arrows were designed to shoot from the Vision Havoc and maybe Fury. They were mainly designed to give speed freaks a few more fps and to provide complaining hunters with an arrow that did not stick out past the end of the foot stirrup like the 20"ers did when equipped with a broadhead. Some Havoc 175 and 150 packages were shipped with either arrow, so, again, that tells you nothing. Sometimes it was just a matter of which arrow they had in inventory that day when they were shipping Havoc packages. And again, who KNOWS what is floating around out there that was put together in the end times by the guys hired by the liquidators... you could have a Havoc with Vision limbs, an old style 3 arrow quiver, older Carbon Bone Collector arrows and a nice camo lighted scope or you could have a Havoc 175 with a rubberized ALL BLACK stock supplied with a 5 Arrow Arachnid quiver, all black lighted scope and 17" Savage arrows. There was alot of inconsistency in the end in their packages.

A word on those two arrows commonly shipped with Havocs and Visions before the end times: the 20" Carbon Bone Collector was, in my experience with all the Horton RDT xbows, the most accurate of the two arrows. It was / is, just a pain in the butt because, as stated above, the arrow juts out past the end of the foot stirrup. The blue Savage 17" arrows were almost as accurate except out of about every 5 arrows you would get a flyer. It might be as far as 2" off of the other arrows but it would be consistently off in the same spot. There was also a batch or two of the blue Savages that were plagued with loose nock issues, so loose that some of them would actually fall out of the shaft under their own weight. That is an easy fix but only if you are aware of the issue. Real problems could arise if you have that nock turned the WRONG way... you could get a dry fire. And that... is a bad thing.
 
No worries, no question you have asked is ignorant. Simply put, every crossbow maker recommends a certain weight, length, etc., arrow for their particular crossbow. If you stay within those parameters you should get many hundreds of shots with your arrows. Now, there are many shooters out there who do use different arrows than what is recommended for their bows but they still need to stay within the weight and length recommendations UNLESS they really know what they are doing or they have done their due diligence / research. I have found that if I want the best info on using a NON-OEM arrow in any particular crossbow I can contact David at Wyvern Creations, Dorge at Firenock or Jerry at Southshore Archery and they all pretty much know what kind of aftermarket arrows I can safely use in a crossbow.
I do not believe there are any "cumulative" dry-fire type issues shooting shorter arrows over time, it just doesn't work that way in my experience.
There are also a few very knowledgeable "arrow" guys here and over at AT... sometimes you can get help from them. Like I said tho, I almost never fluctuate from the factory specs with arrows and have never had any real problems.
 
Ok... my two cents worth on the use of scents / attractants: it is great if those attractants are working for you. Personally, I stopped using all commercial attractant and scents years ago. Too often I found that the minute I used any brand of attractant around live scrapes those scrapes would go dead overnight. And nothing sucks more than killing a couple very promising scrapes near a prime treestand. My deer harvest results went way up when I started concentrating on complete scent control of myself... smelling as much like NOTHING as possible. If I opt to use any cover scent it is a plant or nut native to the area I am hunting in. I never wear my hunting boots ANYWHERE other than in the woods, then they go right back into a sealed plastic bag with 3 socks full of baking soda.

I know using those deer glands / legs can work, I'm 57 years-old and when I was a kid the old timers did that alot, and I used to do it too in my younger years. It's just that for me, again, the percentage of shoot-able bucks went way up when I stopped using all scent and / or metartasal glands. I used to drag around those deer legs behind me (or often just the glands,) but if you accidentally touch them yourself or touch them against your clothes, etc., it can be a problem. Where I hunt the LAST thing you want to do is smell like a deer whilst sneaking out to your ladder stand at 3:30 am... or when you are walking 3/4 of a mile back to your truck in the dark at the end of the day. The big bucks out there have charged me many times in the past, in the dark... they either wanted to fight me or "f" me... so again, I just concentrate on smelling as much like NOTHING as possible. Now, when I encounter a big buck in the dark it studies me but hardly ever charges me like it did when I smelked like a deer. The other thing you need to do if you are going to drag those glands behind you is make sure your boots are 100% de-scented and take those glands off at least 20 yards from your tree stand. Otherwise the bigger, smarter bucks will simply trail YOU to your hunting spot and watch you from out of range. I found that, over the years, using commercial scents or actual glands off of a deer, all I was doing was creating some amount of excitement with a few does and some smaller bucks. It seemed like I wasn't getting any big bucks coming in. When I stopped using all scents (except for natural cover scents) I started getting bigger bucks in close again.
For me, where I hunt, it seems like anything that alerts deer to a human presence overrides any possible advantage afforded by commercial cover scents and attractants. After killing many live scrapes with commercial scents I came to the conclusion that no matter how expensive or highly recommended those things are - there might be just the slightest bit of contaminant in the bottle or can from the factory... whether that is just a few molecules of cleaning agent used in the bottles or some sort of preservative or antifreeze agent, I am not sure... but the deer ARE... they smell things we can't. I know that doing everything else right and seeing active scrapes go dead was a real problem UNTIL I stopped using those commercial scents. Most scrapes where I hunt don't go dead overnight anymore and the ones that do go dead just more or less get normally phased out by the deer using them. With many of the commercial scents my scrapes were literally going dead overnight. I even experimented one year, using commercial scent along a 100 yard scrape line but only using it in every other scrape. The scrapes I didn't touch with scent stayed active, the ones I used scent in died overnight. Same boots worn near all the scrapes, everything else equal, just no scent in every other live scrape. Now, one caveat: in years gone by I HAVE had occasional positive results with Tinks, etc., but the problem was this: I'd never KNOW which particular scent would or would not kill scrapes, or when, BEFORE I used them. So it got to the point with me that it just wasn't even worth taking the chance that my newly purchased $25.00 bottle of the "best scent available" MIGHT kill a scrape when I knew if I just left those same scrapes alone they would probably be live the next day.
So that's what works for me as of now. If using commercial scents works for you, then great. Just keep your eyes peeled... if you start noticing scrapes going dead overnight, it might be your scent. If you are only seeing small bucks... it might very well be your choice of attractants.

Also, in my decades of hunting I have seen some scrapes that only appear to me made and used by does, and I later read some articles by wildlife biologists that confirm it, so it is something you might want to factor into your use of mock scrapes and scents, etc., you may only be attracting does.

I used to also make mock scrapes, and again, after a few years I found that my best overall results came about when I left nature alone and just tried to be an invisible, odorless part of it. Blending in, observing the natural ebb and flow of things, then putting yourself where the most or best activity is seems to work far better for me than trying to lure bucks to me. And really, the times when I had lure out and the bucks came in... I was never sure that they might have come anyway without the gimmicks.

As I said, this is what works for me, but it is all relative: relative to your hunting area, the deer IN that area, relative to your personal hunting style and your hunting / camo / scent control techniques. I only offer these words so you can factor them into your overall toolbag... I thought for years that my Tinks, etc., was working miracles until it dawned on me one day that I was only drawing in the smaller bucks and does and when I did see the big bucks they were always a couple of hundred yards away, already wise to me. More knowledge is always a good thing... so good luck on your journey and good luck with your choice of techniques...
 
Grimmy... I lump calling for deer into the same category as "rattling" for deer. I have found that with deer calls and rattling, again, for ME, in my hunting situation, less is better. I only use a deer call if a buck is a bit out of range and looks like he is thinking about leaving. A couple puffs on and that's it. If it's going to work you will know it soon after the initial blow or two on it. Then you play it by ear... if he hears it and reacts without being spooked you can blow it again maybe once or twice. But you have to be careful, they can triangulate your position from the sound if you use it too much or when he is looking in your direction.
The same concept with rattling: I hardly ever use antlers to try and lure bucks in from a distance. I might use them if a buck is slightly out of range and I want to try to draw him in closer. The one time it seems relatively safe for me to rattle is if I can see or hear a couple of bucks fighting. Rattling in the midst of a battle might draw them both to you, but you must be careful.
Having said that, I hardly ever use a call or rattle for deer except in the limited scenarios above. I have found over the decades that if you are going to call / rattle you had better an EXPERT at it or you are going to scare away more venison product than you call in. And I am the first to admit that I am no expert in calling or rattling. Yeah, I have had a few positive results doing both over the years but if I had to be 100% honest, I can't prove those deer wouldn't have come into shooting range at some point anyway...
As with cutting out my use of commercial cover scents, etc., I have found that in NOT using calls and rattling my results have been somewhat better. There are hunters and writers who SWEAR by rattling and calling and I assume they have a long, educated background in those techniques. But, like I keep saying, be honest with yourself... can you really PROVE your calling or rattling activities actually DREW IN those deer? I would guess maybe yes, occasionally, it might be very obvious that a buck came prancing or charging in because of your call or rattle but did you SEE the BIGGER buck you might have scared off? Scared off because he saw you before you saw him because your hands were moving around and you can't see BEHIND your head? I can't count the number of times I was being... well, a little too liberal with my use of rattling antlers or a call only to hear a BIG deer crashing off AWAY from me in the brush BEHIND me, and I'd catch a glance of his big rump bounding away. So... even if I had managed to call that buck in from a long distance, was it worth it? Those big bucks don't get big being stupid... so the fact that he SAW me up in my tree stand means I may never see him again. Yeah, younger bucks sometimes come back around your stand once they make you, but not many of the BIG BOYS. They remember danger zones...
So where does that leave the average guy who can admit he / she is not an expert at calling and rattling? You control your scent first and foremost. Do the things mentioned above in my scent post AND... when walking into the woods try to never touch trees, brush, etc., with your bare hands. If you are using a treestand (which is great for elevating your scent above the ground) do not grab the steps with your bare hands... you will leave scent on them. I always reach up over my head and grab a step the deer can't easily sniff and I try to wear de-scented gloves unless.the temp. is just too high. Never urinate in the woods, deer are programmed by thousands of years of evolution to detect the SCENT of PREDATORS and your urine contains amino acids and purines that only MEAT EATERS excrete so every time you urinate in or near your hunting are you hanging out a hugh sign that says "Hey! Big Predator In Your Front Room Deer!" So, once scent control has bern given all necessary forethought and action we now factor in calling and rattling... as I said, use it sparingly. Try this: instead of concentrating your hunting efforts on calling and rattling and use of attractants just BLEND IN with your surroundings and WATCH. Read the signs as you scout or hunt and adjust accordingly. If you continually see a big buck or signs of him in another part of the woods then instead of trying to call him to you, just move your stand closer to him. Be wary to control all of your scent in that process tho. And don't slap a stand right in the middle of where he lives or regularly scrapes, but place it near a choke point or an entrance trail several yards away.
If you watch the woods and read the signs AND you smell like nothing, you should be able to watch the normal ebb and flow of the deer on your property without ever letting them know you are there and then you ADJUST your hunting strategy based on what you SEE... by all means, if you ARE an expert caller or rattler then ply the tools of your trade, but rest assured, if you know you are NOT an expert you can still bag the big ones by being observant and flexible in your techniques.
One final concept: over the years my available hunting ground has gotten squeezed down to a fraction of my former area, but back when I had access to thousands of acres of hunting ground there would be times when it just seemed I couldn't find a decent buck no matter what. Everything I normally did wouldn't work. After a few years of that happening it occurred to me that I needed to do SOMETHING different... so I decided to do the radically opposite of what normally worked. If I normally sat in a 22' treestand deep in the woods and that usually worked but had been NOT working for a few weeks... then I would literally go to the one place on the property I would never, ever normally hunt and set up there for a day or two. You'd be amazed what you can see from a perspective you'd never normally take. I often got decent bucks this way or SAW places where I could move a stand to and bag one from there. One year I decided the most ridiculous spot I would never normally hunt from was the corner of a ditch surrouding our property. This particular spot was right out in the open with no real cover for a hundred yards all the way around. I sat there with my back against a 3" tree stump left years ago and just watched. No less than an hour later a BIG 10 pointer came right up behind me, walked past me and when he got about 30 yards out I dropped him. He came out of nowhere but if I had not "mixed things up" that day I may have never even seen him in the woods.

So, if things get stagnant for you, then mix it up, go the FARTHEST, most ridiculous spot on your property that you'd NEVER normally hunt from and try that for awhile. You might be surprised.
 
Mike... I wish you the best. Remember the little things: your breath. The native Americans would not eat onions or garlic a week before a hunt because that smell comes out of your pores and is on your breath. Even if wild onions and garlic grow in your area, they doesn't smell the same combined with your body acids, hormones, etc. So brush your teeth with baking soda b4 the hunt. Sometimes I will chew a native plant like mint or catnip. Don't smoke in the woods or while wearing your hunting garb. DO NOT WEAR YOUR HUNTING CLOTHES IN YOUR HOUSE OR IN YOUR VEHICLE. They will pick up any number of odors from your kitchen, etc. Keep your hunting garb sealed in a garbage bag or de-scented, airtight tote until you get to your hunting spot. I get really good laughs every year when I go to the gas station before the morning hunt and see fellow hunters trapsing around in their hunting clothes and wearing their $125.00 rubber boots while pumping gas into their trucks. Do they not realize they are coating the floor of their hunting areas with the smell of gasolune, motor oil, etc.? De-scent your hair and / or beard, they both hold foreign odors like crazy. Do not spit in the woods. Do not $hit in the woods. Do not spill pop or coffee in the woods or near your stand. Make sure your backpack is de-scented. Elevate your scent when possible: use treestands, set up on hilltops where you can look down on deer movement, etc. It is impossible to control your scent completely but you CAN choose your degree of dedication to that process... the more effort you put into it the better your results will be.

One more note on calling and rattling: we have all probably watched those hunting shows on TV where the celebrity hunter expertly rattles or calls up a GIANT buck every time he touches two antlers together. Come on guys, we all know how these things work... either these guys are hunting in those very rare areas that are EXTREMELY overpopulated by small, medium and bigger, aggressive bucks, or the producers are exhibiting 1 of TWO HUNDRED attempts to draw in a big one. Those TV situations are not realistic for most of us, so don't let some TV hunter's SKEWED, produced and edited results talk you into doing things that you may not be ready or capable of doing. A life lesson I had to learn long ago after being smashed into by a drunk going over 70 mph was this: "every man must learn to admit his limitations and then learn how to live within those limitations." This applies very aptly to the use of calls and rattling antlers... know and be realistic about your limitations and then work within them.