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Nockturnal Lighted Nocks Warning

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20K views 38 replies 23 participants last post by  Dangerous Dan  
#1 ·
Everyone: I was a firm believer that Nockturnals were the way to go until today, I based my believe on the consistency of the Nockturnals my friends and I used for Vertical Bows, they were awesome and worked fine and repetetively. Well not the Nockturnlas for a Crossbow Arrow, my friend and I shot one this afternoon about six times to check arrow flight and accuracy. On the sixth shot the light came on momentarily and we didn't see it light again til it hit the target and it was very dim. The nock broke indicating the system is weak and should NOT be used , these were half moon nocks, however, I was a firm propenent of the Nockturnal system until today. Everyone using these or contemplating their use be aware they are not safe. See attached photos. Cactus
 

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#3 ·
Bobby : Yes , both my friend and I did (he has a 320 as well) it broke on his shot, no it launched and hit the target and didn't do any damage to his Bow. That's the upside but again DO NOT use moon nock Nockturnals . I will send an email to the company along with pictures as they are selling a very unreliable product , a dangerous one to boot. We'll be trying the lighted Omninocks when they become available. Cactus
 
#6 ·
Thanks Tom, I guess I will have to order a 1/2 dozen and try them. I am just a little confused on what I will need so all my arrows have them and 3 have them lighted and 3 for now are not lighted, but weigh the same. I will have to go to Dorges' web site to see if I can figure out what to order.
 
#9 ·
Try LUMENOCKS Cactus been testing them all summer.Bought 6 of them to try out Feb.2013 with the lumenok extinguisher tool after 150 to 180 shots they still worked lost 2 shooting groups also used them hunting woodchuck and coyotes.Cannot swear you get the same results but have them on every arrow I hunt with vertical or crossbow.Shot them again before reply into my yellowjacket bag target and yep they still worked.
 
#11 ·
Yes, they offered to replace them after we send them the packages we have. So we said No Thank You, as we don't want to end up with the same problem. The company needs to beef up their Moon Nocks and when they do we may try again. In the meantime both FireNock J Nocks are available or even Luminock in a pinch. Nockturnal is not admitting to the problem, we'll wait and see, in meantime stay away from their Moon Nocks, they're not safe. Cactus
 
#13 ·
Cactus, check your string. Same thing happened to me a few nights ago [12-11-13] using Nocturnal flats. 6 degree temperature made it brittle and it just disintegrated. Luckily got a good launch and got the deer anyway. Last night I spinal tapped and dropped another buck about 30 yards out, and when it was taking longer to die than I liked, cocked my bow and fired a finisher, only the string broke; I'm sure because the top of the battery damaged the serving and string without my knowing it. Amazing the first shot was OK, but the 2nd shot broke the string! No more Nockturnals for me, even if they're free!

Jack >
 

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#14 ·
"...one nock broke after six shots. Therefore, your sample size isn't exactly enough to label their entire lineup lineup as "not safe", is it?
I don't hang out on the Nation much, I posted a review of the Rage Nockturnal back in July on another forum, so I missed Cactus' post until today. Back in July, the weather was warm and there was no hint whatsoever of any problem with the Nockturnal, and I gave them an honest review that was favorable overall. Since hunting conditions are not always favorable, and since your next shot could be the shot of a lifetime, I have tested and used all the Nocturnal nocks I need to use to determine that I will not use them ever again. They could have easily cost me 2 deer, and worse, could have crippled and wasted those deer. I don't need to make any more samples to determine that for me at least, Nockturnal flat nocks are not worth the risk.
Jack >
 
#15 ·
Just a technical perspective. All lighted nocks are made and mode out of polycarbonate. As all polycarbonate that are translucent, ultra violet will eventually degrade it. There is also a VERY IMPORTANT PART, you never drill, sand, or scratch a polycarbonate nock if you plan to hunt in cold weather. Polycarbonate nock went through a curing process which means, after it is cured, it sort of behave like glass. Any modification on it will cause score marks which can lead to cracking. In case of some lighted nock, which you will have to use a sharp object to shut it off, which may cause scoring on the polycarbonate nock when doing so. In some cases, when one reheat the polycarbonate nock, it also change the chemical configuration of the nock, and when temperature drops, the nock will break at the curing zone differential point. Which I believe is what happen to Jack Pine.

There is a cheap way and the worry proof but expensive way to do thing. Most cheaper way will work in some conditions, but not ALL conditions. Case in point, if I design Firenock with the nock NOT able to be field change. As time goes on, when the nock degrade, the entire unit will be wasted. With the electronics in Firenock, it is design to be fire and be punished no less 30,000 shots into a multi-foam-layer target and keep going. As matter of fact, the US made G-switch are rated for 12,000,000 cycles at 600G. BUT it cost a lot more money and technology to make a nock field changeable. As the technical requirement will be much higher. AFAIK, only Bayer® virgin Makelon® cured in the perfect condition can last and not degrade as temperature drop to as low as -55F. As there is no movement of any part of Firenock, and the nock is not enduring any pressure when shot with the install of extreme shock end cap. So, you need to ask yourself, how important your lighted nock is for you and how much you are willing to do to make sure it works not just some time, but every time. Last is there is way to service what you have or it is just a throw away. Some of my customer would like to use their for a life time and I make sure they do as all Firenock comes with a life time unconditional refresh policy.
 
#16 ·
Jackpine: Thanks for the info, I checked the string and don't see any damage to be worried about. DCup: I did not advise about Nockturnals total line up just their Moon Nock, would you advise I keep testing to break more and maybe break the string or damage my crossbow. I'm the one that pushed Nockturnals based on my experience with them on the Vertical Bows, these never failed and never broke,was the one we shot six times defective? A definite possibility but this time I'm not going to take a chance to damage my Bow or myself by trying more that should be done by Nockturnal themselves. Dorge: Your explanation makes sense, thanks very much for that. Cheers Cactus
 
#17 ·
I use [SIZE=12.727272033691406px]LUMENOCKS. I use my bow at temps of -10F to -20F and I have not one break on me as shown above. But I have had them fly out of the arrow when the arrow hit the target. I have lost 3 LUMENOCTS this way. You can't find the nock as the light goes out as soon as it flies away from the carbon arrow. If you have to pull and twist the [/SIZE][SIZE=12.727272033691406px]LUMENOCK really hard to get the light to go out, then that one should be OK for cold temp shooting. [/SIZE]
 
#18 ·
Check out this method for extinguishing a Lumenok.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoyuLpC9qw4

Lumenoks are brighter than any other crossbow nock on the market. They are simpler and made in the USA. Parker offers the Burt Coyote Lumenok designed for their crossbows requiring Capture nocks and The Burt Coyote Co. Offers Lumen-Arrow bolts with Capture nocks installed. If you really want to light up your bolts, get serious. Get Lumenok.
 
#20 ·
I have not tried the luminock because of the price, but I have tried the carbon express nocks and they flew apart, I think the problem with them is they will not tighten up in the shaft. Some of them will not turn off very easy. I have to insert a knife blade into the gap. I think that the gap open when shooting slams the nock into the shaft breaking it. My knockturnals have held up good but they don't seem to have a long burn time. Out of 9 lazer eyes I have one left working, not broken. they sent me 6 at no charge, no questions asked. I don't think I will call them again because they just won't work. maybe if you put some glue on them they will stay in?
 
#21 ·
I have not tried the luminock because of the price, but I have tried the carbon express nocks and they flew apart, I think the problem with them is they will not tighten up in the shaft. Some of them will not turn off very easy. I have to insert a knife blade into the gap. I think that the gap open when shooting slams the nock into the shaft breaking it. My knockturnals have held up good but they don't seem to have a long burn time. Out of 9 lazer eyes I have one left working, not broken. they sent me 6 at no charge, no questions asked. I don't think I will call them again because they just won't work. maybe if you put some glue on them they will stay in?
OM, the nockturnals I bought had a low temp hot melt glue on them, supposed to fit just about any shaft, did you try heating it up a little? That won't change my decision to not use them again though; they're just not safe or dependable enough for me to chance it again.

Jack >
 
#22 ·
firenock said:
Just a technical perspective. All lighted nocks are made and mode out of polycarbonate. As all polycarbonate that are translucent, ultra violet will eventually degrade it. There is also a VERY IMPORTANT PART, you never drill, sand, or scratch a polycarbonate nock if you plan to hunt in cold weather. Polycarbonate nock went through a curing process which means, after it is cured, it sort of behave like glass. Any modification on it will cause score marks which can lead to cracking. In case of some lighted nock, which you will have to use a sharp object to shut it off, which may cause scoring on the polycarbonate nock when doing so. In some cases, when one reheat the polycarbonate nock, it also change the chemical configuration of the nock, and when temperature drops, the nock will break at the curing zone differential point. Which I believe is what happen to Jack Pine.

There is a cheap way and the worry proof but expensive way to do thing. Most cheaper way will work in some conditions, but not ALL conditions. Case in point, if I design Firenock with the nock NOT able to be field change. As time goes on, when the nock degrade, the entire unit will be wasted. With the electronics in Firenock, it is design to be fire and be punished no less 30,000 shots into a multi-foam-layer target and keep going. As matter of fact, the US made G-switch are rated for 12,000,000 cycles at 600G. BUT it cost a lot more money and technology to make a nock field changeable. As the technical requirement will be much higher. AFAIK, only Bayer® virgin Makelon® cured in the perfect condition can last and not degrade as temperature drop to as low as -55F. As there is no movement of any part of Firenock, and the nock is not enduring any pressure when shot with the install of extreme shock end cap. So, you need to ask yourself, how important your lighted nock is for you and how much you are willing to do to make sure it works not just some time, but every time. Last is there is way to service what you have or it is just a throw away. Some of my customer would like to use their for a life time and I make sure they do as all Firenock comes with a life time unconditional refresh policy.
Dorge, you almost have me talked into spending the extra money to try out your nocks. Never had good luck with lumenoks, and my brother has had loads of trouble with cx lighted nocks with his crossbow. After what I read in this thread about the nockturnals, I'm not too sure about them either :/

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
#26 ·
maad said:
I've never had a problem with Lumenok they make a great product!
X2 My Barnett bow is hard on nocks leaving grooves in them and I have never had any problems with the Luminoks breaking or cracking even with deep grooves in them.I have not shot them below 20 degrees however.I turn them off easily with pliers with heat shrink on the jaws.