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Discussion starter · #41 ·
Here you go. Actually the 1/4” bushings are actually threaded for 10-24 and there’s a washer on both sides of the bearings so they’ll roll.

I have a left and right bracket and they screw into the arms of my EZ Press extensions.

I can press limbs, serve strings, and use as a spine/deflection checker with the added dial indicator. I just slide the different attachments on and off for whatever I need to do.

But some guys just make a stand alone spine/deflection checker. Good luck.

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Gosh, been looking at this a couple of days now and it just dawned on me to have a bow press, string tensioner and spine tester all in one package, would be so sweet.
Is that what we have here?
 
Gosh, been looking at this a couple of days now and it just dawned on me to have a bow press, string tensioner and spine tester all in one package, would be so sweet.
Is that what we have here?
Yes. When I get back home after New Years I’ll take some pics with it set up in different ways.
 
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I just gigle when others think some don't apreciate a rounder wheel! I mean it's ok, if you don't want it to be better than you can buy, or pleasing to use, some don't figure its worth doing, function is priority, but some have pride in what they put their time in and want it look as good as it works, pride also can be appreciated in smooth and precise, more than just saying , but it works as good as his,,, really?

I do things for myself, because I want it my way knowing others can have the same thing, just not like mine, I never wanted to spend my time knowing it will work but won't work as well or look as good as others. I would rather have smoother, quicker less jumpy as well as know that it looks as good and works as good as you can buy.

When I super tune a baitcast reel, it don't make it catch more fish, but it sure puts a bigger smile on my face when I turn the handle and feel a difference, the more I spin it. The factory bearings were smooth on the $300.00 reel, at least to me they were,,,, till I flushed, relubed, and replaced them with better bearings,,, now I know the difference, and why the bigger smile.

When I spin my concentricity gauge checking ammo I prefer the dial indicator to stay on the 10,000th mark its on when I spin it till their is a change, it does on bearings. On v blocks it's more jumpy and takes longer to get them same results, the cost of going to bearings were well worth the pleasure using it though,,,, at least to me.
You still haven't proven me wrong. If you can't roll something in V blocks without being jumpy, practice might help. I understand the use of bearings but pointed out they weren't needed for the average guy who wants to spin a couple of dozen shafts every few years. That is my opinion but the results are the same.
Didn't know you rebuilt fishing reels and checked concentricity of bullets but I have built my own bullet press, chambering reamers, dies and if it really matters machined my own receivers from 4340 barstock but what does have to do with spinning arrow shafts?
 
I am in the process of putting an indexer together. I printed this last night. I have a bunch of lead laying around, I’ll use some of that for the weight
I use rock cod weights, they are lead and cheap to get I think $19.95 shipped and that was for a 4 lb
I mill a flat in them and bolt on my cage , then paint the lead weight .
 
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You still haven't proven me wrong. If you can't roll something in V blocks without being jumpy, practice might help. I understand the use of bearings but pointed out they weren't needed for the average guy who wants to spin a couple of dozen shafts every few years. That is my opinion but the results are the same.
Didn't know you rebuilt fishing reels and checked concentricity of bullets but I have built my own bullet press, chambering reamers, dies and if it really matters machined my own receivers from 4340 barstock but what does have to do with spinning arrow shafts?
You don't pay much attention to what was posted. I not only don't try and prove you wrong, in fact I stated that you had pointed out what works! You seem to be struggling though with my point! It is not just what works, but what some are willing to settle for!

As for 300 dollar reels and bearings, I would have thought a man of your expertise would have picked up that if reels that cost that much, they obviously don't come with the cheapest Chinese nock offs, but if an inexpensive bearing can make a noticeable change on them,,,,, they can make anything smoother than NO BEARINGS!

the rifle action and chamber reamers should prove my point, as well as the ammo produced, I'm sure they work,,,, I have my doubt's any would make the grade on the platforms I use a concentricity gauge to produce. But I'm basing that on what you have told us you are willing to accept with your home brews!

But please read post #40 where I stated your way will work,,, nobody is trying to prove you wrong!! But you continue to make my point. My apologize if you though I was insinuating anything you said was wrong!

But trust me, I do understand without giggling why some are not willing to settle for good enough!
 
I just giggle about all the trouble Y'all go to using bearings. V blocks or improvised V blocks with smooth rounded surface so not to score the shaft and will accomplish the same results for the home builder. Yes I do understand a quality built fixture for the professional builder not wanting possible score marks for aesthetic selling point. If the shafts are truly round V blocks will give the same results as the best abec bering. I am a trained machinist since 1974. Prove me wrong.
I appreciate the fact that you are a trained machinist

But I'm an end user of things machinist make and been a professional arrow builder for over 20 years. I owned a shop that sold almost a million arrows during that 20 year period and I most likely built half if not more

Every single machinist build tool I used in the shop was modified so they would work better

The reason wasn't that the design wasn't good it was that in the real world things are different than on the design table and in a controlled environment test lab.

My arrow saw is a prime example, it is the best part of a Easton saw and the best part of an Apple saw.

So to answer your question about V blocks VS bearings. V blocks don't hold a candle to bearings and I will say there are arrows that are impossible to test on a V block
 
I appreciate the fact that you are a trained machinist

But I'm an end user of things machinist make and been a professional arrow builder for over 20 years. I owned a shop that sold almost a million arrows during that 20 year period and I most likely built half if not more

Every single machinist build tool I used in the shop was modified so they would work better

The reason wasn't that the design wasn't good it was that in the real world things are different than on the design table and in a controlled environment test lab.

My arrow saw is a prime example, it is the best part of a Easton saw and the best part of an Apple saw.

So to answer your question about V blocks VS bearings. V blocks don't hold a candle to bearings and I will say there are arrows that are impossible to test on a V block
The following is the exact quote " I understand the use of bearings but pointed out they weren't needed for the average guy whose wants to spin a couple of dozen shafts every few years."
I stand behind it. I understand why you don't use V blocks and have a total understanding of what works for production and do not discredit your ability in any way.
If the arrow shafts are round a v block or v surface can check concentricity. If concentricity can be checked, deflection can be checked.
You mentioned your saw. Wouldn't precision ground ends produce a better shaft? Or are you just settling?
 
I appreciate the fact that you are a trained machinist

But I'm an end user of things machinist make and been a professional arrow builder for over 20 years. I owned a shop that sold almost a million arrows during that 20 year period and I most likely built half if not more

Every single machinist build tool I used in the shop was modified so they would work better

The reason wasn't that the design wasn't good it was that in the real world things are different than on the design table and in a controlled environment test lab.

My arrow saw is a prime example, it is the best part of a Easton saw and the best part of an Apple saw.

So to answer your question about V blocks VS bearings. V blocks don't hold a candle to bearings and I will say there are arrows that are impossible to test on a V block
Jerry?
The pictures of the Arms and Roller Bearing sets that Bob Bowers (Super 91) had on display from back in 2015 for direct replacement of the Ram QC Synthetic Arms were made by the same machinist who’s contact information I gave you for the Firenock Jig Nock Receivers. I just have no reference to what he may have called the parts.
 
have my doubt's any would make the grade on the platforms I use a concentricity gauge to produce. But I'm basing that on what you have told us you are willing to accept with your home brews!
PLEASE tell me about you ultra platforms? Are you the next David Tubb, Jerry Miculek or Anne Oakley's cousin?
If you still want to run off topic let's go Brandon! Joe says it and 👍 agrees
 
PLEASE tell me about you ultra platforms? Are you the next David Tubb, Jerry Miculek or Anne Oakley's cousin?
If you still want to run off topic let's go Brandon! Joe says it and 👍 agrees
Do you drink a lot?
 
Jerry?
The pictures of the Arms and Roller Bearing sets that Bob Bowers (Super 91) had on display from back in 2015 for direct replacement of the Ram QC Synthetic Arms were made by the same machinist who’s contact information I gave you for the Firenock Jig Nock Receivers. I just have no reference to what he may have called the parts.
Bob and I have talked on a regular basis for many years. I have his hooks and nock receivers on most of the firenock receivers in the shop. I gave Bob oldtoads number so he could get bearing blocks

I was just addressing an inaccurate statement.

Why would a home archer not need bearings over V blocks. Accuracy is accuracy no matter if it's two dz or 10,000 dz
 
The following is the exact quote " I understand the use of bearings but pointed out they weren't needed for the average guy whose wants to spin a couple of dozen shafts every few years."
I stand behind it. I understand why you don't use V blocks and have a total understanding of what works for production and do not discredit your ability in any way.
Again why should a home archer go through the trouble of setting up a spine tester and not spend a few bucks to make it work as accurately as possible,, the number of arrows being tested does not matter..

If the arrow shafts are round a v block or v surface can check concentricity. If concentricity can be checked, deflection can be checked.
Arrows are ground after the mandrel is pulled to get them to the spine they need to be. They are not ground to produces a really slick, uniform surface

V blocks induce a Jerky result as arrows are rolled. There are arrows that you can't just roll, there must be a light touch technique used. Black Eagle crossbows arrows are so uniform I would bet you money most would be impossible to identify the stiff side on V blocks

You mentioned your saw. Wouldn't precision ground ends produce a better shaft? Or are you just settling?
I'm not settling the saw is just fine because I invented a powered arrow square, that uses bearing blocks to rest the arrows on so the shaft would be square within +/- .0005

I use this tool that burky made me to test for squareness.
The first one of these I owned was made for me by one of the owners of lumenok. It used V blocks and was very difficult to use

All I'm saying is why limit the home archer to an inferior product

The phrase good enough causes more issues in archery than any other statement

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Before the flange bearings I have on my setup now, I had the regular roller bearings. I read a tip long ago to soak them in alcohol to dissolve any grease inside the bearings which I did. When they dried out I could feel that they would spin easier.

But my current flange bearings seem to be “sealed” - I don’t recall if I tried to soak them or not but I do feel tiny bit of drag with these, but the shaft riding on a narrower surface - including the hanging weight - give me the optimum sensitivity imo.

My hanging weight is exactly 1.94# and I use Jerry’s mltiplier formula for deflection based on the shaft length I’m checking. (y)
 
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Jerry?
The pictures of the Arms and Roller Bearing sets that Bob Bowers (Super 91) had on display from back in 2015 for direct replacement of the Ram QC Synthetic Arms were made by the same machinist who’s contact information I gave you for the Firenock Jig Nock Receivers. I just have no reference to what he may have called the parts.
Hey Jon, hope you are doing well, and Happy New Year. I designed the Firenock jig nock receivers (Three versions for different nock throat thicknesses) as well as the roller bearing arms. The machine shop you refer to did the work for me.
 
Bob and I have talked on a regular basis for many years. I have his hooks and nock receivers on most of the firenock receivers in the shop. I gave Bob oldtoads number so he could get bearing blocks

I was just addressing an inaccurate statement.

Why would a home archer not need bearings over V blocks. Accuracy is accuracy no matter if it's two dz or 10,000 dz
I’m in total agreement with you on this fact. I was trying to be helpful by providing the information I did. My intention was get anyone interested close to the source, but I couldn’t get them any closer than I did.

As for Bob he’s been off these forums for numerous years now and has moved on to other hobbies.
 
Mr JerryR,
So I used the V block method described on over three dozen Carbon Express arrows a couple of years ago. Then re-fleched those arrows according the indicator readings with said tungsten weight. There was a vast improvement in accuracy. Guess I am just lucky and there is no merit in the V block method. Went from 4 out of dozen acceptable to 10 out of dozen acceptable. Just blind luck. Ordered a dozen Dragon Claw shafts and used the same method. The rebranded BEE were measured at better than +/- .001 static testing. With said tungsten weight deflection was checked and marked and fletched. All shot well. Are they as good as you make, probably not but in my opinion they are better than non-indexed BEE arrows. Heck I am sure you would reject just about everything I do from gluing inserts to my fletching technique. You do this for a living and have probably forgot more than I know about arrows. I am a hunter not a target competition shooter and my shots are typically less than 30yds and I practice to 50yds. My methods work for me and would for vast percentage of hunters on this forum. In the real world the vast majority of crossbow hunter owners shoot factory non indexed arrows and at best pick the better shooters for hunting.
This is a SIMPLE YES or NO question. So in your opinion are off the shelf factory non indexed arrows better than mine?
 
Hey Jon, hope you are doing well, and Happy New Year. I designed the Firenock jig nock receivers (Three versions for different nock throat thicknesses) as well as the roller bearing arms. The machine shop you refer to did the work for me.
Hey Bob,
Long time no see and Happy New Year to you and the rest of the family. I pray everybody is well and stays that way.

Over the years you've certainly come up with a number of great innovations and designs to take products that were just okay and improve them significantly.
It's nice to have you back on the forum with us!
 
Hey Bob,
Long time no see and Happy New Year to you and the rest of the family. I pray everybody is well and stays that way.

Over the years you've certainly come up with a number of great innovations and designs to take products that were just okay and improve them significantly.
It's nice to have you back on the forum with us!
Bob,
As long as you're on the forum and I have your attention I want to check and see if you still have any of the arm and bearing sets you made for the Ram QC that you'd be interested in selling?

I could have a set made up easily enough, but as we both know machine shops generally want quantity orders to justify their prices. I'm only looking for a single set to change out my original synthetic arms.
 
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