Fine Tuning LRF Position
The final position of the LRF marker is impacted by several things, most significantly where the scope reticle position ends up after zeroing. If the location is too far off the reticle you might consider this approach.
NOTE - DNT does not suggest we do this as it adds complication to the scope mount.
Move the laser marker up......
If you have a "0" MOA base, you can move it up by going to a 20 or 35MOA base. A 20 MOA should work well for most crossbows and using the most suitable MOA base is the BEST option. If for some reason that's not an option, you can shim the existing base and add more MOA. I'd suggest adding that shim between the last two holes in the mount. What is pictured below is the 20 MOA mount I have on my setup, and I'll use it in these pictures for the shimming reference.
![Technology Machine Plastic Optical instrument Silver]( "Technology Machine Plastic Optical instrument Silver")
I use pop can or ??? can for the aluminum strip. A 5/16" strip cut with a common household scissors, then cut again to 1" length, folded in half twice (flatted with a hammer) and you will have about .015-.020 shim. That's a good starting point for an elevation change.
![Air gun Carbon fibers Gun barrel]( "Air gun Carbon fibers Gun barrel")
After installing this shim, you will need to go through the zero process again. POI will have changed so check at 10 or 20 yards then your zero yardage if it's more than 20.
![Image]( "Image")
Move the Laser marker/widget left or right.....
The LRF is mounter left of center of the optic. To move it in (to the right) you will have to turn the optic slightly to accomplish this. How to do that is the same approach as above: add a shim.
The DNT Scope base is long enough to safely accommodate this small shim IMO. Ya, were a rebel group here on CBN and like what we like to make our gear and setups "the best" so until there's an adjustable LRF or a mount, this is an approach that will work just fine if done well.
You can make a shim in the same manner as earlier noted and fold it so it's "V" shaped, then add it between the edge of the scope rail and the scope. The size of the shim is a bit smaller than the base spacer, about 3/16" square and folded into a "V" shape that fits your scope rail edge. A dab of glue to hold it in place will help your scope mounting process as well.
![Carbon fibers]( "Carbon fibers")
![Plastic Carbon fibers]( "Plastic Carbon fibers")
You will need to ID where the shim will go and possibly use a light adhesive to hold it in place while you mount the scope. I've also successfully slid these in place with the help of a long shim holder. I made that holder from a 10"L X 1/8"W round wooded stick. I split the end of the stick and slid the back edge of the spacer inside that and slipped it in between the mount base and the pic rail. Be VERY careful to visually confirm the ship position is when you want it. Just another approach to shim placement.
When the shim is in place correctly it pitches the scope base outward and points the front of the Zulus to the right and in turn the LRF as well.
![Image]( "Image")
You may have to experiment with how many layers of aluminum it will take to move it where you prefer.
![Image]()
I try to get my marker as close to the center (X) as possible. As you magnify it will move down and depending on your Zeroed image position, away from the reticle.
It's not hard to do, it just takes some time.
The final position of the LRF marker is impacted by several things, most significantly where the scope reticle position ends up after zeroing. If the location is too far off the reticle you might consider this approach.
NOTE - DNT does not suggest we do this as it adds complication to the scope mount.
Move the laser marker up......
If you have a "0" MOA base, you can move it up by going to a 20 or 35MOA base. A 20 MOA should work well for most crossbows and using the most suitable MOA base is the BEST option. If for some reason that's not an option, you can shim the existing base and add more MOA. I'd suggest adding that shim between the last two holes in the mount. What is pictured below is the 20 MOA mount I have on my setup, and I'll use it in these pictures for the shimming reference.
I use pop can or ??? can for the aluminum strip. A 5/16" strip cut with a common household scissors, then cut again to 1" length, folded in half twice (flatted with a hammer) and you will have about .015-.020 shim. That's a good starting point for an elevation change.
After installing this shim, you will need to go through the zero process again. POI will have changed so check at 10 or 20 yards then your zero yardage if it's more than 20.
Move the Laser marker/widget left or right.....
The LRF is mounter left of center of the optic. To move it in (to the right) you will have to turn the optic slightly to accomplish this. How to do that is the same approach as above: add a shim.
The DNT Scope base is long enough to safely accommodate this small shim IMO. Ya, were a rebel group here on CBN and like what we like to make our gear and setups "the best" so until there's an adjustable LRF or a mount, this is an approach that will work just fine if done well.
You can make a shim in the same manner as earlier noted and fold it so it's "V" shaped, then add it between the edge of the scope rail and the scope. The size of the shim is a bit smaller than the base spacer, about 3/16" square and folded into a "V" shape that fits your scope rail edge. A dab of glue to hold it in place will help your scope mounting process as well.
You will need to ID where the shim will go and possibly use a light adhesive to hold it in place while you mount the scope. I've also successfully slid these in place with the help of a long shim holder. I made that holder from a 10"L X 1/8"W round wooded stick. I split the end of the stick and slid the back edge of the spacer inside that and slipped it in between the mount base and the pic rail. Be VERY careful to visually confirm the ship position is when you want it. Just another approach to shim placement.
When the shim is in place correctly it pitches the scope base outward and points the front of the Zulus to the right and in turn the LRF as well.
You may have to experiment with how many layers of aluminum it will take to move it where you prefer.
- A rear left side shim will move the laser marker from left to right, toward the center of the reticle.
- A front left shim will move the move the laser marker from right to left an away from center.
I try to get my marker as close to the center (X) as possible. As you magnify it will move down and depending on your Zeroed image position, away from the reticle.
It's not hard to do, it just takes some time.
