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Adapting the Jack Pine press to yer bow.

8.1K views 16 replies 7 participants last post by  smong2000  
#1 · (Edited)
Anyone interested in a great press most can build yerself, I invite ya to consider the Jack Pine press. You can read about it here to help ya decide if ya wanta tackle it...

Altho this press is built for the Swat X1 an Fatal X, the principles an methods for other bows are the same in most cases, just the measurements change. From the KI thread you'll see 2 uprights, 4 limb blocks, 2 threadrods with a simple chain drive that collapses or relaxes the limbs together at the same rate, plus some small hardware items. Some of the stuff can be sourced locally, savin shipping an supportin yer local economy. I've included sources for most parts.
I used 1/2" Acme threadrod, but I think 1/2" SAE will work, I just happen ta like Acme thread, but you can get 1/2" threadrods an nuts locally in many cases. You'll need a 2x4x8 spf with enough clear section to cut 2 18" uprights from, an enough for 4 - 6 limb blocks in case ya mess a couple up.
If ya find the dimensions don't work for yer bow, change em! For example, I started with 10" rod spacing, but when I added a taller optic, I had to change to 12" spacing, an move the limb blocks 1" ta eqalize top an bottom spacing.

After ya read the KI thread, the first step to adapt to yer bow is ta measure the distance between yer limb tips at the wheels.
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In my case it was a little less than 1 inch, but ya don't to be too tight, so add a little room for free movement. I increased the gap measurement ta 1". This measurement is important because that's how far apart yer limb blocks will need ta be ta clear yer wheel width
to be continued....
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Well I made a pretty outrageous statement when I said I thought my little stubby press could press a vert bow. So that prompts the question "How in the world can that be done without using 6' rods that would ruin the portability of the press?".
Good question. I'll answer by saying I haven't had a vert bow in my hands for over 15 years, an I haven't pressed a vert bow, but I'm 100% confident I could easily do it with this press.
Assuming you already built the press for a crossbow, you would need an additional 3' section of threadrod the same thread (acme or SAE) as you used to build the press.
Cut the threadrod into 2 equal pieces, and cut a notch a little less than 3/16" wide 1/2" deep in the center of each threadrod.
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I don't know how long yer vert bow is, so you would need to buy enough chain to add to the threadrod to provide enough space between uprights to press yer vert bow. You'll need 2 pieces, 1 for each threadrod. Weld 1 end of the chain into the slotted end of the threadrod and thread both into the holes in yer uprights. Thread a nut or sprocket onto the end of each threadrod, and pin the free end of the chain at the right length to press yer bow.
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I sourced this small but strong welded chain at Ace Hardware in Cadillac, MI. I'm sure they have it other places. It was in a bucket marked "#2 machine" and they'll cut the length ya need. It is small enough to fit into the copper pipe bushing yer rod goes through.
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Thread it through the bushing an pin it with a bolt at the proper length, an press yer bow.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
How to press the R18 grasshopper
Another outrageous claim I made was that I'm 100% sure the Jack Pine press could press the R18 grasshopper! Crazy right? Especially since I don't own one, haven't shot one an haven't even seen one except in pix.
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From pix tho, it looks to me that the R18 limbs move in a vertical direction instead of horizontal like other "crossbows".
If I owned an R18, I'd turn the press 90⁰ so that the press would press downward instead of sideways.
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I'd make "uprights" to be the top an bottom an I'd fab a "cradle" for it to lay in an fab limb blocks to attach to the top that would press downward. Again, I'm 100% positive this works, but since I don't have an R18, an since nobody I know has even SEEN an R18 press, I can only offer a direction for R18 owners to start in, but I don't think it would take much imagination or skill ta make it work. 😛
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Got it done! Tomorrow is testing day after the epoxy cures locking the offside screw end in place. Glued and screwed so it won't twist or wobble. I used 2 3/4" x View attachment 279321 View attachment 279319
View attachment 279320

1 3/4 poplar
Thinking about getting a couple long springs to put over the⁸ rods so it opens up when the chain is turned.
Well done! What an awesome job ya did. Lovin yer blocks. Can't tell from yer pix, are ya usin a wrench on sprocket nuts or just movin the chain by hand to operate it?
You probly don't need it but here's some info on cable routing ifya do.
😃
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
I am in process of building a press. I bought a pair of 1/2" ID needle thrust bearing w/washers from AMAZON for $6. They were cheaper per bearing if you bought more.
What draw weight is the bow you are pressing?
How far are you having to press?
Just wondering about the need for thrust bearings and your need for a wrench.
The Swat X1 draw weight is 200 pounds M/L. The press will do much more than that if properly built usin 1/2" or larger Acme thread rod an CLEAR sections of SPF or stronger wood or metal. Most bows will only need to be pressed enuf to relax the S&C enuf to get the loops off the lugs but typically need pressed slightly more to install a new set.
IMO, thrust bearings aren't a 100% requirement, but will make operation smoother an easier. Plan to use a wrench to press/relax.
Altho a press that will get little
use might possibly get away with regular SAE thread for a few times, there ain't any economic advantage to not usin Acme thread rod; a 1/2" 6 foot Acme thread costs less than $20. My safety is worth more than $20, you'll hafta decide if yers is.
Anyone not competent or confident enuf to build this project, should spend the money to buy one o the comercially built presses. 😀