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Cam timing off on new bow, what to do?

7.2K views 20 replies 7 participants last post by  the Ranger  
#1 ·
My new Hori-zone penetrator which is the same bow as a PSE Fang 350 has a cam timing issue which you can feel while shooting. If you look at the pictures you'll see a 2mm difference uncocked, I haven't measured it while cocked yet. When the xbow came, it came in a kit and I had to bolt the limb module onto the barrel myself so unbolting it wouldn't void warranty if I send the module back under a warranty issue.
However, when I had vertical compound bows I did it myself by partially cocking the bow, placing a screw driver in the spokes, unhitching the offending cable and either winding it clockwise or counter clockwise.
My question is, can I do the same with this xbow? I know it's not a string issue but a cable issue and if I can do it myself it would avoid a hell of a lot of faffing about. I'd need a comprehensive guide to help me though.
Thanks.
186714

186715
 
#4 ·
The crossbow needs to be put in a press and add a 1/2 or possibly a full twist to
the cable in the top picture to match the cam setting in the bottom picture

If it was the string for a change out or adjustment, then one could partially cock the
cross bow and insert the screw drivers. The crossbow would have to be cocked enough
for the string loops to clear the limbs in order to remove them from the cam lobes.

Cam timing or cam levelling, the crossbow has to be put in a press.

Wishing you all the best.
Take care.
 
#8 ·
I had a full session yesterday, probably fired 24 bolts in total. I noticed a slight pulling to one side upon shooting the bow and a member on here said check your timing and sure enough it was about 1/8th of an inch out. I'll do another session probably mid week, we're having nightmare weather here at the moment and my shooting grounds are a mud bath.
 
#7 ·
Right, I've done it. Thanks to HunterThompson for reminding me its the single ended cable. This is how I did it:- Rather than twisting one cable tighter, I untwisted the left cam cable one full twist. I did this by cocking it to a third then my wife pushed a screw drive through the right cam spoke and laid it to rest against the limb, I then let the pressure off. The single ended cable on the left cam become loose enough to take it from the lobe and I untwisted it a full turn. The gap is now 2mm on both cams and it's the same while cocked although you have to use different parts of spoke alignment to establish that.
So the rule of thumb is, jamming the right cam loosens the single ended cable on the left cam and vice versa.
Thanks all, saved a lot of faffing about.
 
#10 ·
After reading "Hunterthompson" reply (Post #6) I did some thinking and then what
"Maff" just described in (Post #7) made it clear. Thanks to both of you. I have a press
but say in the field or some where when no press is available this would be a great help.

Thanks for sharing.
Take care.
Also something else I noticed Bunnyrabbit, jamming either cam on this model gives you enough slack on the main string to replace it. That's worth knowing. But....I'd jam both cams equally so that you have even weight distribution while replacing the main string.
 
#11 ·
Another interesting observation on this set of PSE fang 350 cams is that it has two sets of single ended cable lobes. One set it much less taught than the current setting. Therefore I'm assuming there are two main string sizes for this set up. This is the 350fps 175LB draw set up. I suspect there is a lower power setting of perhaps 150LB but because there is only one set of main string lobes you'd need a different size main string.