Crossbow Nation banner
21 - 38 of 38 Posts
Hi All,
As always Highlander raises some good points in his threads, so let me please explain a couple of things we need to clarify.

First of all the Silicone used in the manufacturing process for Bowstring Wax does not contain Naphtha Solvent, which makes it safe for all bowstring use.

Next, as Highlander correctly pointed out, adding any type of wax, chemicals, cleaners or virtually anything at all to ones cables and string is not recommended since it becomes a magnet for dirt or small particles that are likely to build up and cake over time. If we take a look at our crossbows you'll notice that it's your servings that ride over top of your crossbows rail. Servings are not waxed!!!

We should be waxing the non served portions of our cables and string with a good Silicone based bow wax. Everything else should remain clean and new. If you have moving parts that require a minimal amount of lubrication then I'd recommend using a Dry Teflon spray. Use it, then move the parts that you are lubricating, then wipe off any excess with a fine, clean cloth. The idea is to keep all parts on your crossbow looking the way they did when you removed it from its original box.

So, the string being waxed means only the string fibers and not the servings. Where your limbs pivot or move should only receive a good Dry Teflon spay once or twice a year and then work in the dry lube and remove all excess. Everything else only should need to be wiped down with a clean cloth periodically.

For those who use a product like Rail Snot or similar, this should be periodically cleaned down well to remove any buildup or dirt binding to this lubricant. Then re-apply a clean thin coat.

Hope this helps.

Xbow755
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Wow. The reason why I love this place, is that anything can be worked out with some thought. I thought there might be a way or home remedy. I do this to everything. Dishwashing liquid, clothes detergent, and all I make on own.
 
Hi Krealitygroup,
Being creative and self reliant is often a good trait and admirable.

These traits can often save some money when they make good sense.

Sometimes they become penny wise and pound foolish, so the key is to learn and understand the difference. :)

Regards,

Xbow755
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
I totally understand... I'm not offended in the least :) Just learning :)
 
Hi Krealitygroup,
Your original question was very well thought out and a good question.

We all learn by watching and asking questions, At one time or another
every one of us on these forums were "Newbies" that learned in the same manner as you.

In a short amount of time you'll be in the same position as many of the experienced members
and you'll be answering the same questions you find yourself asking now. That's actually what
makes this site both unique and worth while. The more experienced members have always freely
shared their knowledge with the newer members, so the correct information keeps passing hands
and bad information or rumors get put to rest quickly.

Regards,

Xbow755
 
So from what I see actually sold FOR string lube/ wax BY PRO SHOPS 90% is soft and greasy and potentially collects grit and dirt and does not dry but remains a soft waxy/ greasy substance even those rail lubes,the best lube I can see for the purpose is a silicone dry lube carefully selected as to it's carrier.i have not yet tried " railsnot" as it seems to be quick to leave the shelves here and while I can't vouch for vaseline,it is a petroleum product ,however it has been claimed by many labs, medical and proffesional organizations to be unique and free of many of the harmful constituents of nearly all other petroleum based products,including many waxes which may find their way into string wax,however even if harmless chemically it is as we all know soft and greasy and holds grit From what I see offered there may be NO perfect string wax or rail lube,just as there is no perfect gun lube ,just good ones. If I said graphite many would find big problems with it though it exhibits great lubricity a dries with no grease to hold dirt.AND it does have a carrier.a perfect lube may not exist just one that does the least harm in conjunction with regular cleaning.i am new at crossbows though.
 
Hey There All
I was looking at rail lube/string wax. When I first started shooting vertical, I saw Dave Cantebury use beeswax to wax his strings.. He also has a crossbow video (Vintage Barnett) where he talks about using tallow to lube certain parts of the bow. I use a hair product call Murrays Beeswax. It's part petroleum jelly, part bees wax, and it really works well on strings/servings. It's $2 or less a container, and you get hundreds of application per container.. You can find it at any Walgreens, Walmart, CVS
There is a good reason to use only what I d recommended. I have used soft string and cable synthetic wax. One in particular stands out as my best. Allen makes a wax which has a high melting point which requires heat to apply it to cables and string but once worked in it stays without slinging off during firing. This means it forms a great barrier to resist wear.
 
This thread was started around 6 years ago and I personally went through a few different lubes since. The only one that I have stuck with is Scorpion Venom. One tube lasted me almost 3 years.
 
There is really no magic to finding a substitute ,ask yourself , does it lube?, Is it dry,does it attract grit? And. Does any of it's constituent ingredients harm crossbow materials ,especially Dacron ?(finishes are also a consideration but not so much a safety one) otherwise a crossbow is just another machine that needs to be clean and lubed and inspected for wear..
 
Practically all modern strings and cables are made with either Dyneema or Spectra, both a UHMwPE gel-spun thermoplastic synthetic fiber and which are virtually identical. Even though the product information says that it's resistant to many chemicals, I would be hesitant to using something not specifically designed for synthetic fibers.

Perhaps there are products out there that are not marketed as bowstring wax that could be used, but a tube of XYZ bowstring wax would last for several years.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the update on materials perhaps I seemed dated however I am playing catch up as I have not messed with bows in nearly 10 years much of my equipment reflects this but still seems to work quite well .my crossbow is new though.
 
Hey There All
I was looking at rail lube/string wax. When I first started shooting vertical, I saw Dave Cantebury use beeswax to wax his strings.. He also has a crossbow video (Vintage Barnett) where he talks about using tallow to lube certain parts of the bow. I use a hair product call Murrays Beeswax. It's part petroleum jelly, part bees wax, and it really works well on strings/servings. It's $2 or less a container, and you get hundreds of application per container.. You can find it at any Walgreens, Walmart, CVS
This is my VERY FIRST bow! I know NOTHING ABOUT IT! So I just got it yesterday and last night found out about “string care”. NEVER knew about waxing the string! I bought some online but in the meantime do u think this would work on my mini cobra crossbow
 
This is my VERY FIRST bow! I know NOTHING ABOUT IT! So I just got it yesterday and last night found out about “string care”. NEVER knew about waxing the string! I bought some online but in the meantime do u think this would work on my mini cobra crossbow
Hello Sorcutt1212 and welcome to the site. I see by your post that you are NEW. Please allow me to help on a few things:
1. First; You were snagged into an old, old, message post as well as a few others. When you are researching information please try and avoid this by looking above the individuals name starting the message in the upper left corner. It will show a number and a date. Your post is #36 but the #1 post was January 17, 2014. This tends to happen with new members anxious to find answers and everyone understands their excitement.
2. Second; You mentioned you went "online" and you are here which indicates you have internet access. You will find lots of answers to your question by reading threads and I also recommend using YouTube for watching various videos while learning.
3. Third; If you want some specific instructions on your string care, let me recommend visiting boocustomstrings.com and select the tab "Important Stuff". Scroll down the page to "String Care". Read what is said in the application of wax to a string. (Incidentally, Boo is actually a member on this site). If you still have questions just ask and several members can give you advice.
4. Fourth; By all means, until you are more familiar with your crossbow and its maintenance, use simple bow string wax which you can pick up at any of the department stores that have sporting goods section, ie: WalMart, Target, etc.
It will most likely resemble a large stick of chap-stick and will be relatively inexpensive. Welcome again and good luck.
 
You can mix a wax with olive oil or Crisco. For the wax use bee's wax/soy been wax or parafin. The latter I don't like because it really isn't friendly to he human body. You want it to the consistency where it melts almost immediately when rubbed in with your finger. I no longer use my mixture of bee's wax and olive oil. The strings I make now get a silicone oil treatment. I use a 100% silicone oil that is used for acrylic molding and lubricating treadmills. There is no odor, it isn't big money like some fancy string lubes and so very little is needed.
Whatever you use, always treat your strings when your done shooting. Allow the treatment to soak in at overnight at minimum.
 
  • Like
Reactions: robertyb
21 - 38 of 38 Posts