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I'm thinking ... unless you're using flat nocks, could be the string too low, grabbing the moon nock pulling the rear of the arrow down into the slot and lifting the broadhead end? This would be particularly possible with snap on nocks, or nocks that were tapered and/or smaller in diameter than the arrow shaft. I saw it on my old Bowtech Stryleforce.
 
Just my findings on the two brands I own.

On the Barnett Brotherhood Bone Collector the arrow sits up off the composite rail a little toward the front of the bow. This Xbow will keep its arrows in a golf ball size group at 40 yards, when I do my part.

On my Ten-Point Turbo GT the arrows lay flat down against the composite rail, and it also shoots golf ball size groups at 40 yards.

My take is as long as the arrow sits the same every time on either of my bows, it will shoot great.
 
Remember the drop-away rests on the verticles?!? Does it matter if the arrow isn't perfectly flush on the rail as long as it's hitting consistly at bow-range yardages?!? Something to consider........
 
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Just my findings on the two brands I own.

On the Barnett Brotherhood Bone Collector the arrow sits up off the composite rail a little toward the front of the bow. This Xbow will keep its arrows in a golf ball size group at 40 yards, when I do my part.

On my Ten-Point Turbo GT the arrows lay flat down against the composite rail, and it also shoots golf ball size groups at 40 yards.

My take is as long as the arrow sits the same every time on either of my bows, it will shoot great.
Thats just it. It doesn't set the same every time I load it. At least nothing I can set my scope for ? I can load it several times before it lays flat. Thats the way my scope it set, and it groups great. Not so good when it up or up and right. I hunted and played with it today. As long as I don't have to take a quick 2nd shot, I can tinker with it and get it to lay flat. I need a back up xbow. Kinda waiting for after Christmas sales. Not so sure Barnett will get my money this time ?
 
Bowanalee: If you have not done this, take a straight edge and lay on the rail near where the arrow rests. If the stock is warped, it will show up as the rail fastens to the stock. Some front ends of Barnett stocks were warped from new and Barnett claimed this was still acceptable. This is the area where some owners claimed there was a space. Does the arrow lay flat just before it is completely loaded? If it does something is wrong when the arrow is loaded. Another check is take a straight edge and lay along the arrow between two vanes. Check the others as well. By holding the arrow and straight edge toward a light, one is looking for a small gap which will show a warped or poor quality arrow.
All the best.
 
Bowanalee: If you have not done this, take a straight edge and lay on the rail near where the arrow rests. If the stock is warped, it will show up as the rail fastens to the stock. Some front ends of Barnett stocks were warped from new and Barnett claimed this was still acceptable. This is the area where some owners claimed there was a space. Does the arrow lay flat just before it is completely loaded? If it does something is wrong when the arrow is loaded. Another check is take a straight edge and lay along the arrow between two vanes. Check the others as well. By holding the arrow and straight edge toward a light, one is looking for a small gap which will show a warped or poor quality arrow.
All the best.
Yes, and I can get it to lay flat when loaded. I just have to play with it. I'm sure the rail is good with the exception of being short at the trigger end. I think it needs a rail extension that will hold the knock end of the arrow up or less down pressure on ADF. Considering how much these things cost and the trouble its been causing, shouldn't be that hard to design ?
 
Ok, did a little more testing. The rails not deformed. If I hold up the ADF with a screw driver and load an arrow it works perfect and lays flat on the rail every time. I tried several arrows. It only tips up when I load it normally going under the ADF and forcing it up. I noticed something else too, after oiling it and shooting it for a while. Its not doing it as bad. I guess the oil had to work in ? Its better but not fixed. I'll shoot it a while longer. Maybe the oil will ease some of the down pressure ?
 
The biggest problem with Barnett is pore nock to string alignment , i have owned 2 of them and both have had the same issue ,The string latch is a string over latch type system , when cocked the string actually sets lower in the rail then it does when relaxed or uncocked , so when you shove that half moon nock in there it pushes the tail end of the arrow down thus moving the front end up , The new tallon nocks are supposed to fix this . when i reworked my barnett rdx ,i made the arrow ride lower in the barrel ,no more problems .
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The biggest problem with Barnett is pore nock to string alignment , i have owned 2 of them and both have had the same issue ,The string latch is a string over latch type system , when cocked the string actually sets lower in the rail then it does when relaxed or uncocked , so when you shove that half moon nock in there it pushes the tail end of the arrow down thus moving the front end up , The new tallon nocks are supposed to fix this . when i reworked my barnett rdx ,i made the arrow ride lower in the barrel ,no more problems .
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X2 Sometimes on Barnetts the adf can stick and cause the arrow to lift off of the front. I modified moon nocks to work basically like the new talon nocks. It stopped all the down force at the back of the shafts that cause grooves and wear issues.
 
The biggest thing i look at when buying a crossbow or when i build a barrel for one is lift up the string and lay an arrow on the flight deck ,look across the flight deck and make sure the bottom round part of the nock (half moon ,Q nock )
Is flat across the barrel ,most companies use a flat nock which cures nock alignment , But then you have to look at what type of latch system is being used ,a string over latch system need a nock for the string to grab on to , i know this the hard way . For example do not shoot flat nocks in a Barnett the string will jump on top of the arrow ,lol blew one up that way .
Tenpoint Excaliber use a string latch that flips up ward thus not having a ramp like barnett and other string over latch systems , they can use flat or omni type nocks because the string stays on the barrel as the latch moves upward .
In a perfect world the bow with snap on nock capability's has the advantage 10 fold as they have the best nock to string alignment . Moon nocks if set right in the barrel would be second ,IMO
Remember there is one constant variable , the string always rides tight to the barrel , proper nock alignment is key in a crossbows accuracy unless it can duplicate a flaw every time ,(consistancy ).
 
I recently had an arrow acting up that sometimes it laid flat on the rail (Barnett Ghost 410) then it would fail (raise up a bit). This would happen off and on, but not necessarily repeating it self. I checked the arrow with a straight edge, laid between two vanes and along the shaft, while holding it toward a light source. I then checked the other vane areas the same way. No problem. Checking the rail, it was good. I lubricated the trigger box assembly in case something was sticking a bit. Vane height had sufficient clearance. I pulled the 1/2 moon nock and checked. No problem. I then rotated the nock a half a turn. The same problem would show up once in a while. This was a refletched arrow. Carefully checking the vane area with a light, I found a very tiny spot of glue near the downward (cock vane) side of the arrow shaft. I carefully scraped this off with a dull edge part of a knife. Retesting, the arrow is back to shooting 100%. In this instance that was all it took to cause the arrow to lift off the front of the rail. The tiny glue spot acted like a pivot.
All the best.
 
I recently had an arrow acting up that sometimes it laid flat on the rail (Barnett Ghost 410) then it would fail (raise up a bit). This would happen off and on, but not necessarily repeating it self. I checked the arrow with a straight edge, laid between two vanes and along the shaft, while holding it toward a light source. I then checked the other vane areas the same way. No problem. Checking the rail, it was good. I lubricated the trigger box assembly in case something was sticking a bit. Vane height had sufficient clearance. I pulled the 1/2 moon nock and checked. No problem. I then rotated the nock a half a turn. The same problem would show up once in a while. This was a refletched arrow. Carefully checking the vane area with a light, I found a very tiny spot of glue near the downward (cock vane) side of the arrow shaft. I carefully scraped this off with a dull edge part of a knife. Retesting, the arrow is back to shooting 100%. In this instance that was all it took to cause the arrow to lift off the front of the rail. The tiny glue spot acted like a pivot.
All the best.
Now you got me scraping all my arrows. :D
 
Now you got me scraping all my arrows. :D
Done ! ...These were refletched and had a little extra on the shaft. Just one more thing eliminated. :D
Mine rubbed enough under the rail to fray my cables. I kept it greased up good with Barnetts stuff ?
From opinions /posts here, I ordered a 60x string set. Thanks for the info !
 
a good quality straight edge will tell if the rail is junk, all rails are supposed to be flat period. i worked on a barnett quad edge for a friend and told him to sell it. rail has 5/16 warp. it always had one or two fliers out of six. You can give me every excuse in the world but that fact is all rails are supposed to be flat. it does affect accuracy, some a lot some very little.
 
I hunted today. Let loose a few confidence shots before I left. Even when I loaded up in the tree, arrows are still off the rail. So, I loaded, released the safety, reloaded then put the safety back on. Arrows were perfect on the rail and shoots like a dream. I guess thats my new routine ?
 
I hunted today. Let loose a few confidence shots before I left. Even when I loaded up in the tree, arrows are still off the rail. So, I loaded, released the safety, reloaded then put the safety back on. Arrows were perfect on the rail and shoots like a dream. I guess thats my new routine ?
Being you checked everything and it appears good, put say a 25 grain heavier point on one of the arrows that raises off the rail to see what it does. I realize you do not want to shoot the extra weight. I do not know what else one could try being it uses 1/2 moon nocks.
It sounds like that is a one person bow that has a very qualified shooter using it.
All the best.
 
I hunted today. Let loose a few confidence shots before I left. Even when I loaded up in the tree, arrows are still off the rail. So, I loaded, released the safety, reloaded then put the safety back on. Arrows were perfect on the rail and shoots like a dream. I guess thats my new routine ?
I would call Barnett and see if they can sell ya some talon nocks .
I know all there new arrows come with them .
 
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