Honestly man I have no idea. I have just recently noticed similar lines on my Parker's right limb (not as bad) butI took a closer look with a magnifying glass and I can't tell if it's just an imperfection in the paint job, because it really doesn't look like the limb is cracking at all. I just chronographed my challenger at 315fps so I have not seen a problem due to the lines on the limb. I'm going to keep shooting.

Good luck

 

Hi 240m3srt,
From everything I can know and can see in the pictures you've supplied, this is a classic case of what is known as stress fractures in the cosmetic finish. Don't know if you've seen or looked closely at an older corvette. Something like a 1969 or 1970 sting ray. If you were to look closely at areas like across the top of the tail or around the top of the front fenders, you'd likely have seen a similar pattern of stress marks in the paint or the appearance of lifting peels.

In no way has this ever weakened the subsurface or resulted in any type of diminished performance in the materials. The paint job is a cosmetic, baked on finish. Technically, I can be stripped and redone with no harm or impact to the limb materials.

Since it is a defect in the cosmetic finish, I'm sure it's covered as part of the product warranty, if you'd like it replaced. I'd suggest calling Rex and discussing it with him or their customer support personnel.

Last, when you have talked about minor changes in POI and similar inconsistencies, as you know it's often hard to pin point the reasons for this when hearing for the first time these descriptions. I'd like to offer a few possibilities that should be considered before suspecting the crossbow itself.

• It might be worth checking the consistency of ones "Zero" setting on your scope? I have no idea what scope make or model you're using, so it's somewhat difficult to say how likely the issues you're describing are related to a scope zero beginning to go. We've seen and had this happen numerous times in the past four years and the symptoms are a match to what you've described in your thread. Just a thought.
• Not sure if you've numbered each of your arrows or not? I suggest using "Arrow Number Decals" and labeling each arrow shaft. I always shoot my arrows in a specific numerical sequence and always use the same arrows each time I shoot. When I arrive at my target, I also record each shot by it's numerical position in the target. This allows me to always know exactly which arrow was shot an where it placed in the target. If a flier occurs, I can easily focus in on just that shaft and re-shoot it until I'm able to determine if there's a problem or the problem was located between the chair and the trigger!
• Next idea, look carefully for nock fatigue. As nocks age and are heavily used there are two things that can occur. The first is hairline fractures that will eventually cause a break or chip, which will eventually lead to an arrow flier during the shot. The second is material breakdown due to UV Ray Deterioration. Sunlight is the enemy of all synthetic materials. As nocks are exposed to the UV Rays from the sun, it causes the internal materials to slowly deteriorate. This eventually leads to nock failures and fractures. Our carbon shafts were designed to outlast our nocks, if they're exposed to a frequent amount of direct sunlight. If any problems are detected replace those nocks right away. Even when you can't see any problems with the naked eye, if you find that one given arrow in your shooting group is consistently performing differently, I would check the spine to insure nothing has changes in that area and then automatically change the nock as a precaution. New Nocks are cheap at the going price compared to good carbon shafts.
• Last Idea, In the event none of these resolutions address the problem with any effectiveness, I would begin to consider the possibility that under certain circumstances one of my vanes are being disrupted during the launch cycle. I can't tell you if it might be clipping a cable, a string or one or the other side of the rail. i don't know if you're shooting an offset on you vanes or shooting a straight fletch? I also don't know how low a profile you're using or how long a vane you use. All of these factors can play into an occasional arrow being off its mark.

My apology for being somewhat vague, but under the circumstances all I can do is offer you some of the areas that would need to be verified and checked in order to isolate a transient problem such as the one you're experiencing.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Xbow755

 

240,

Don't know the answer to your question. My limbs do not have any flaws in them. I guess I'll cross that bridge if/when I come to it.

I have only seen these cracks in pictures, but your left one is the worst I have seen next to the one pigfoot posted. His was a cross section pic of something entirely different.

I would get those replaced this winter if it were my bow.

 

It looks to me like they need to use a more flexible finish on there limbs. Maybe they went with a different finish for 2014. The limbs on my Vent have been fine so far since they were replaced but I don't have that many shots through it. I haven't seen problems with the Velocity's limbs yet but will keep an eye out.

 

These maybe just cracks in the paint but lets all don't get to complacence and over look a real problem and someone gets hurt just saying........

 

That first pic looks to me like the camo wrap is junk. Do us all a favor and send some pics to Scorpyd. They need to do something different with that camo finish....

 

I have a flaw/cosmetic issue with my left limb on my Vent 150 and when I see all these pic I notice that there all in pretty much the same spot... The finish (in my opinion) is in the finish its got to be something else. Why would the hairline crack be in the same spot on most pics I've seen including mine. 3" down from the limb pocket on the outside.
I absolutely love Scorpyd and I can't imagine shooting anything else. I think the thing that worries me is the amount I have invested. I will tell you that I have personally talked to Jim at Scorpyd and he said without a doubt its covered under warranty. He says its all cosmetic but has had shooters continue to shoot over 1,000 arrows after seeing the crack and no difference in speed or POI.
I have to say this as well. I love the input.. good or bad. It make me more aware and in return makes me safer with my investment!! Trust me I live in a area that crossbows have invaded every house hold. All brands have these issues. Jim stated that all brands have a 3~5% limb failure rate. Other than a guy on here that hit a limb while shooting and another one finding his in parts in the back of hus truck I haven't seen pics of a busted limb since I started this forum a year ago.

 

Here's one
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Smart Im telling you as a dealer. I dont think I would quit shooting the bow, but I would replace the limbs. If they are too busy you can send it to me and I will put new ones on and set the timing and anything else. The one is no worry but the other is a little more extreme than normal.

 

Here's one




Welp, thats the first one like that I've seen. I will just keep that in the back of my mind to watch out for. Thanks for the pic

 

Welp, thats the first one like that I've seen. I will just keep that in the back of my mind to watch out for. Thanks for the pic

Water under the bridge my friend, both limbs have been replaced and all is good, so good I just purchased a Vent 100 to keep my 150 company. The 100 is one of Scorpyd's best kept secrets.

 

In regards to changes in velocity & perhaps even point of impact, have you considered how the weather in your area has changed over the time you've noted these changes in speed & accuracy?

I was out a shot my bow a bit 3 days ago, we had a really warm day for this time of year @ 49F, still shot the same as during Nov. deer season. But had I gone out and shot this morning in 14F weather I'd bet you'd see a drop in the bows speed. Real cold stiffens almost any material that is required to flex & store energy, not just bows, fishing rods and other items are also impacted in much the same manor. Your arrows are also going to be impacted by deep cold as well (archers paradox), which could also change your point of impact.

Really any time to have a big swing in temps it's going to impact the bow & how it performs.

Yours are the first pics I've seen of limbs showing the "blistering" or bubbling that your one limb shows. I'd have zero concern in regards to shooting the bow if it were mine, but I'd also be sending it in for replacement limbs. I take good care of my gear & try to keep it looking as near to new as I can for years, so would not want to keep the limbs if they are pealing like yours are clealy starting to do.

I've no doubts that JIm & Rex would be very willing to exchange your limbs for a new set. They understand about pride of ownership & I"m sure have no desire to have a customer who's spent well over grand on a Scorpyd bow be left with a bow who's appearance is going down the tubes through no fault of the owner.

Wish you the best in dealing with this.

Edit:

Another very good reason to exchange the limbs is future resale value of the bow. Blistering like yours shows is going to cause you a major hit on resale value if you don't exchange the limbs.

I suspect Jim & Rex are having "conversations" with who ever does the camo jobs on their bows. I know if I were in their place I'd be very unhappy about this. A issue like this impacts a companies reputation for good durable gear. In Jim's place I'd be looking for another provider of this service.

 

I have a flaw/cosmetic issue with my left limb on my Vent 150 and when I see all these pic I notice that there all in pretty much the same spot... The finish (in my opinion) is in the finish its got to be something else. Why would the hairline crack be in the same spot on most pics I've seen including mine. 3" down from the limb pocket on the outside.

The reason for this showing in the same area in one bow after another is that is a area of the limbs that are flexing the most when the bow is cocked & ready to fire. It's also of course the area that then undergoes the very fast spring back when the bow fires. This is expected really with this kind of issue with the finish, I would be very surprised if this was happening in random areas from one bow to another.

 

I appreciate the responses. I consider myself quite meticulous, but comments regarding weather and changing the nocks out got my mind going about some variables i had not been thoroughly tracking on my notes, thanks for keeping me sharp.

FWIW the scope i settled with for this season is the Excalibur Tact Zone. I am shooting Aerobolt 2's with Aerovane 2's straight fletched for a total of 465gr arrow @ 362fps(scope setting is 350fps and the subtension points are on from 20-50yd). Qnocks with dummy circuits. All arrows are numbered and when they fail to group they are either recockvaned(is that a word lol) or refletched 60 degrees over, this usually works. I dont have a spine tester and since my arrows that were spine matched by the two major suppliers on this website yet still dont always group that tells me there is much more involved then what current "affordable" spine testers can tell us. So i just continue to refletch every few hundred shots. Interesting to note i started the season shooting the heavier arrows with 1" cut 2 blades but had serious issues tracking a few dear due to tiny blood trails after the arrows blew through them. Got my hands one some NAP Killzone and Grim Reapers to finish the season with and then ill have these limbs covered under warranty.

Still havent found a bow that has kept me loyal like the Vent. Wish i could get some hydroshocks CT And Yelpy or Kochie sorry i always get yall confused in my head but whomever suggested the half insulation for a cheek weld-genious, i love it! We keep putting our minds together and the results show it! Happy 2014 Scorpyd brothers, and to all crossbow enthusiasts.

 

Hi 240m3srt,
I guess when it comes to arrows and the tuning aspects associated with them, this is probably one of my strongest knowledge and experience areas, since I've been doing it for over thirty years.

From what you've expressed above I would have some concerns in a couple of different areas that are all related to consistent arrow performance. The fact that over time you've done a number of fletching changes by rotating the arrow shaft to a number of different positions without any knowledge as to weather your rotating toward the Neutral Plain or how far off the Stiff Side your deviating, so you might not be anywhere near the actual Dynamic Plain of these shafts. Next, Each time you do a refletching on any given arrow, your also not using a Grain Scale to closely match the weight of all other shafts in the dozen. This would create some further imbalance in the weight factor of these shafts. The more variables and changes that take place, the greater the level of deviation that gets built into the consistency equation.

I'm not talking to just sound like I know what I'm talking about. I'm stating this as a part of an offer that I don't usually make unless i feel that it's warranted. I have no doubt what-so-ever that if Jerry at South Shore or Dorge puts their minds to build a perfectly matched set of arrows, they can do so as easily as i can. The main difference is they have many more dozens they need to get out the door than I do. I have the ability to really take my time and match everything as closely as possible since I'm only building one set at a time.

I use the exact same Level 3 Frequency Analyzer that South Shore uses. I have the exact same clamping system for FLO Testing and Frequency testing, that Jerry uses as well. My Fletching jigs are a step above what anybody except for Dorge and one other individual in the country has, since it's a highly customized version of the Aerojig. I use Easton's Advanced Arrow Scales for weight balancing.

If you'd like me to tune and match your arrow shafts I'd be willing to do so at no charge, if you'd cover the postage for the shipping. The labor would be mine at no expense. If during the testing, I find out that any of the shafts within the group are not closely enough spine matched to perform perfectly as the others, I'll let you know and it's your choice as to how you want to handle this. I can't change the spines to make them match, I can only identify how closely matched they are from both a static and a dynamic level.

For every set of shafts I test and build, I create a technical spreadsheet to keep track of all specifications related to Stiff and Neutral Plane readings for the Spine data, Shaft Weight at each stage of the build and final weight in tenths of a grain (I use a maximum deviation between the heaviest and lightest shaft with a given dozen of 3/10's of one grain).

I've not experienced the issues of having arrow shafts well matched and then finding one that doesn't conform to the others within a given group. I've heard of this from other members, but have never experienced it with any of the arrows I build. I start the process by sorting arrows by spine into specific groups, so unless the arrows are closely spine matched to begin with, I won't waist my time building a set to start with.

That's as good an offer as I can provide you with, so if the problems your chasing are not caused by the crossbow, then the arrows are the only other possibility. Even the slightest alignment between ones nock position and cock vane alignment can cause deviations in flight due to a vane making contact with the crossbows rail during launch.

I use a tool known as: N-Align, made by Tepper Innovations Inc., out of Shaddy Grove, OR., to precisely align my nocks to the cock vane position. I believe Dorge uses a laser alignment tool to do his. When re-fletching you're probably eyeballing the alignments which are not as precise as it should be.

If interested, let me know?
Either way, I'll lend you as much help and support as I can until you're able to isolate and correct the problems you're having.

Regards,

Xbow755

 

Yepper 240, That insulation is cheap and works great!!! It makes a comfy cheek weld. That Tact Zone is a nice scope for what they were selling for in the classifieds as used or take offs. It helps with having the yardages marked in the scope. I like that a lot!! It makes it less confusing and easier to use for the beginner and when its time to settle in on the shot you just look in the scope and don't have to count the lines because they are clearly marked.