This shows how to change a string but same principle to change brace height also - just take one side off and put the appropriate amount of twists in the string to get it 1/4” - 3/8” off the bumpers. Best to keep it there too - prevents damage to the REDS.

 

Thank you Bowhunter, i will do as soon as my stringing aid comes in..

and since we are on the subject of brace height- can i increase it by some more to get the speed up? i suggest it because i just read the post from big bear- he did it and got more speed according to him..

i already posted my question to him but so far got no answer and still waiting on his answer..

but i thought i ask others too..

 

I'd suggest getting a flemish string too...if not...I'd take that rubber off the string. I have flemish strings on all of my Excaliburs and I wouldn't go back.

 

why go flemish? what difference does it make, i know nothing about it...

 

Just put a bunch of twists in the string that is on it in the meantime. Set it about 10mm off the bumpers.

No you can't get any appreciable speed by increasing the brace height. Yes it pulls the limbs a little harder, but it also shortens the power stroke.

 

👆👆👆This👆👆👆

 

Lots of bow string center servings do not cover the string stops completely. I have never seen one cause any problems. I have two Excaliburs strung up with Flemish strings made by Don (Boo strings) and neither completely cover the string stops. Don is the best Flemish strings twister I know of. I think he knows a little more about Excalibur strings that BR does.

 

Got it Robert.. i will ask Don or Danny if excalibur would like to send me a new, correctly served string (i am in germany) or if its ok the way it is now according to their knowledge.

 

But what you were telling him was incorrect so I told him it was incorrect info. End of story!

Oh, I think the original string from 2010 is still in a drawer and still usable if needed and yes it could be reserved but there are several new strings waiting for their turn also in that drawer.

 

When you get your stringing aid, you will put it on and then crank it up with your crank. Be very careful as it approaches the arrow retention spring.

I cranked mine on a previous crossbow, and it trashed my spring because the stringing aid cord did not go under the spring. Still not quite sure how I did that.

I have read that others have done the same thing. It is not common I believe, but just something to be aware of as a possibility to avoid.

 

i was under impression that i dont need to crank so far that the sliding trigger (and stringing aid) under retention spring goes but only maybe half way between uncocked and fully cocked?

my bad, the retention spring is part of the sliding trigger, sorry.. got it now

 

It is the flat metal “spring” that holds the arrow down to the rail when you are cocked and loaded with an arrow. I probably shouldn’t have even mentioned this possibility. I had an Excalibur where the spring was real low. And the restringing aid has a cord that is quite thick. When I cranked it up, the cord smashed the spring instead of going under it and staying on the rail. Just crank it up just like you would crank your bowstring, and be sure it goes under the arrow retention spring. You are basically cocking it with the restringing aid instead of your bowstring.

 

i was under impression that i dont need to crank so far that the sliding trigger (and stringing aid) under retention spring goes but only maybe half way between uncocked and fully cocked?

my bad, the retention spring is part of the sliding trigger, sorry.. got it now

You

i was under impression that i dont need to crank so far that the sliding trigger (and stringing aid) under retention spring goes but only maybe half way between uncocked and fully cocked?

my bad, the retention spring is part of the sliding trigger, sorry.. got it now

i suspect you will need to crank it way past half way in order to get a loop of your string off.

Those who have a crossbow using a rope cocker instead of a crank will pull it back all the way and cock it with the restringing aid cord instead of the bowstring.

Also it will help if the restringing aid cord is adjusted to be as short as possible and still get it on.

 

You

i suspect you will need to crank it way past half way in order to get a loop of your string off.

Those who have a crossbow using a rope cocker instead of a crank will pull it back all the way and cock it with the restringing aid cord instead of the bowstring.

Also it will help if the restringing aid cord is adjusted to be as short as possible and still get it on.

ok, got it.. i will do it and let you know how it went..

 

Referring to the picture in Post #40 if that crossbow could be viewed in slow motion when it is
shot the unserved strands of that bowstring will hit the rubber stops. This is where the added
serving is required to protect the bowstring strands.
The pictures in Post #37, part of the serving hits the rubber stops when the crossbow is shot but
still an unserved area is not protected.
Who ever is building the bowstring is either building for a different crossbow or not realizing that
the serving is not done properly.
Different parts of crossbows are sub contracted out and if quality control does not check, this
is where the customer gets the faulty product.
Wishing you all the best.
Take care.

 

Referring to the picture in Post #40 if that crossbow could be viewed in slow motion when it is
shot the unserved strands of that bowstring will hit the rubber stops. This is where the added
serving is required to protect the bowstring strands.
The pictures in Post #37, part of the serving hits the rubber stops when the crossbow is shot but
still an unserved area is not protected.
Who ever is building the bowstring is either building for a different crossbow or not realizing that
the serving is not done properly.
Different parts of crossbows are sub contracted out and if customer control does not check, this
is where the customer gets the faulty product.
Wishing you all the best.
Take care.

Do a little more research into materials used in today's bow strings.
It's not faulty, and it's manufacturer has made more bow strings in a day than you'll make in a decade.
Yes, servings used to cover strings, but show me a bow from the last 5 years with a fuzzed up factory string. There are reasons why they use the materials that they do.
The only thing it hurts to serve the extra 2 inches is a bit of speed. But if it's not causing any issues, there is no need to make one where it doesn't exist.

@grzech2005 your string is perfectly fine and completely Normal. Shoot it until it needs to be reserved, and then serve until your hearts content.

 

Looking at the bow string where is makes contact with the string stop rubbers,
the bow string is not served wide enough. The serving should cover the rubbers
and not have the bare threads of the bowstring contacting them. The last picture
clearly shows this.
Wishing you all the best.
Take care.

 

Looking at the bow string where is makes contact with the string stop rubbers,
the bow string is not served wide enough. The serving should cover the rubbers
and not have the bare threads of the bowstring contacting them. The last picture
clearly shows this.
Wishing you all the best.
Take care.

Ok, but i bought in brand new like this.. what does it say about excalibur QC process? or did i cause it somehow?

 

As for the area of the bowstring not served, you did not cause that.
Who ever built the bowstring may not have known it should have a
wider serving or the wrong bow string was installed.
Wishing you all the best.
Take care.

 

As for the area of the bowstring not served, you did not cause that.
Who ever built the bowstring may not have known it should have a
wider serving or the wrong bow string was installed.
Wishing you all the best.
Take care.

ouch... i might have to contact the german dealer that sells these excals and request a new, correct string? sure we make mistakes but then correct them, i hope..

 

Brand new factory string. 1 shot. Serving doesn't touch the bumpers at all. New string materials do not react like strings material if the past. They don't fuz up nearly as bad.

Keep shooting and don't worry about it.

 

i removed the string stars and put it through my chrony...

to my surprise i still got only 376fps with my 400gr arrow which is similar to what i was getting when the rubber stars were on the string.. i thought i would get around 390fps but noo

so, where is the saving of 15-20fps that i was hoping to get by removing them rubber stars from my string.. that sucks..

 

i removed the string stars and put it through my chrony...

to my surprise i still got only 376fps with my 400gr arrow which is similar to what i was getting when the rubber stars were on the string.. i thought i would get around 390fps but noo

so, where is the saving of 15-20fps that i was hoping to get by removing them rubber stars from my string.. that sucks..

The 20 some odd feet of speed loss you are seeing is from the extra 50 grains of arrow weight. Your RevX is good for 400fps at 350grn arrow

The entire sound suppression system, Takes about 12 feet if you use all of it.

The string stars deduct whatever their weight is on top of a factory string. It's basically the equivalent of Flemish string over a factory string.