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I have not tried the luminock because of the price, but I have tried the carbon express nocks and they flew apart, I think the problem with them is they will not tighten up in the shaft. Some of them will not turn off very easy. I have to insert a knife blade into the gap. I think that the gap open when shooting slams the nock into the shaft breaking it. My knockturnals have held up good but they don't seem to have a long burn time. Out of 9 lazer eyes I have one left working, not broken. they sent me 6 at no charge, no questions asked. I don't think I will call them again because they just won't work. maybe if you put some glue on them they will stay in?
OM, the nockturnals I bought had a low temp hot melt glue on them, supposed to fit just about any shaft, did you try heating it up a little? That won't change my decision to not use them again though; they're just not safe or dependable enough for me to chance it again.

Jack >
 
firenock said:
Just a technical perspective. All lighted nocks are made and mode out of polycarbonate. As all polycarbonate that are translucent, ultra violet will eventually degrade it. There is also a VERY IMPORTANT PART, you never drill, sand, or scratch a polycarbonate nock if you plan to hunt in cold weather. Polycarbonate nock went through a curing process which means, after it is cured, it sort of behave like glass. Any modification on it will cause score marks which can lead to cracking. In case of some lighted nock, which you will have to use a sharp object to shut it off, which may cause scoring on the polycarbonate nock when doing so. In some cases, when one reheat the polycarbonate nock, it also change the chemical configuration of the nock, and when temperature drops, the nock will break at the curing zone differential point. Which I believe is what happen to Jack Pine.

There is a cheap way and the worry proof but expensive way to do thing. Most cheaper way will work in some conditions, but not ALL conditions. Case in point, if I design Firenock with the nock NOT able to be field change. As time goes on, when the nock degrade, the entire unit will be wasted. With the electronics in Firenock, it is design to be fire and be punished no less 30,000 shots into a multi-foam-layer target and keep going. As matter of fact, the US made G-switch are rated for 12,000,000 cycles at 600G. BUT it cost a lot more money and technology to make a nock field changeable. As the technical requirement will be much higher. AFAIK, only Bayer® virgin Makelon® cured in the perfect condition can last and not degrade as temperature drop to as low as -55F. As there is no movement of any part of Firenock, and the nock is not enduring any pressure when shot with the install of extreme shock end cap. So, you need to ask yourself, how important your lighted nock is for you and how much you are willing to do to make sure it works not just some time, but every time. Last is there is way to service what you have or it is just a throw away. Some of my customer would like to use their for a life time and I make sure they do as all Firenock comes with a life time unconditional refresh policy.
Dorge, you almost have me talked into spending the extra money to try out your nocks. Never had good luck with lumenoks, and my brother has had loads of trouble with cx lighted nocks with his crossbow. After what I read in this thread about the nockturnals, I'm not too sure about them either :/

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
maad said:
I've never had a problem with Lumenok they make a great product!
X2 My Barnett bow is hard on nocks leaving grooves in them and I have never had any problems with the Luminoks breaking or cracking even with deep grooves in them.I have not shot them below 20 degrees however.I turn them off easily with pliers with heat shrink on the jaws.
 
Luminoks are definitely the way to go, you get what you pay for They are an Excellent product !
 
OLD MAN said:
I have not tried the luminock because of the price, but I have tried the carbon express nocks and they flew apart, I think the problem with them is they will not tighten up in the shaft. Some of them will not turn off very easy. I have to insert a knife blade into the gap. I think that the gap open when shooting slams the nock into the shaft breaking it. My knockturnals have held up good but they don't seem to have a long burn time. Out of 9 lazer eyes I have one left working, not broken. they sent me 6 at no charge, no questions asked. I don't think I will call them again because they just won't work. maybe if you put some glue on them they will stay in?
Same problem here. Also when you try to increase the swedge of the nock and force it into the shaft it splits the end!! Not to mention several time I when I pulled to trun them off they came out. After reinserting many times the POI would change. Until I can afford Firenocks I'm done with lighted nocks all together.
 
I give anything to have a nock that lights on a pass thru shot. Used Tenpoint this year. 1st pass thru nock light was so weak we only found the arrow because i had reflective wrap. 2nd pass thru nock came almost completely out and light was blinking like it was shorted. Spoke to Randy from TP and mention to him how loose the nocks fit. And YES i tried the two other most popular nocks and 1 out of 6 pass thru shots with both makers of these nock fail to light. And please stop all this tech stuff talk. I think the manufacturers need more r& d.
 
If you want a nock that WILL NOT SHUT OFF on pass through, I can guarantee that Firenock will not. And for your TP, our J nock works fine. It does not look like a Omni nock, but it works. Or you have 30days to confirm that yourself. TP has patent pending on Omni nock so no one would make them, and Firenock patent the J,D, Q nock and no other people can make it without a license. That is the long and short of it. Which one is better? I think that you will have to try both and make that call. If I say we are better, everyone would say sure, you make Firenock, and if I said anything different, I would be lying. So i offer you 30 days to make up your mind.
 
Luminoks light up when you pull the trigger which is awesome for tracking the arrow in flight, I read somewhere that someone mentioned that you need a pair of pliers to extinguish Luminoks, there is no tool needed to turn them off just use your thumb or grab the Luminoks between your thumb and index finger and shake it easily.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yaytfbZ76ao
 
It is not difficult to design a lighted nock to light up when you pull the trigger with which I agree is awesome for tracking the arrow in flight. The real trick is how many actually stay light and able to shut off shot after shot! Just an FYI, any nock movement when shot is a guarantee that the nock is no longer consistent on sight after shot. Unless the shooter is not able or care about nock tuning. As little as 5 degree of nock misalignment is enough to be consider unacceptable to those who enjoy 100+ yards shooting. If your idea is to shot short distance and as long as it light up, there are quiet a few choices and some are actually quite affordable and really low tech (which require no reading of any instruction).

Not everyone need a 100% reliable lighted nock that is made for 30,000 shots. Firenock is hunting circuit is design with Fuzzy logic chip set, 15 degree motion sensor, 6 second time delay, ground fault sub-system, and a static drain sub-system, just to ensure the light is light and shut off as you wish.[/background] Nor most would need to be able to change batteries, nock color, nock shape, and lighted function too. But for those who does, I offer them Firenock. On last count, we made over 11,000 combinations of it.
 
I have had great success with my Luminoks staying lit on shots out to 70 yards and pass through shots, I bought 9 of the flat version about a year ago and they are all working well except the one that got hit from another arrow
 
They are expensive, but when you care enough to "send" the best, Firenocks are the way to go...
 
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Cactus I have the new Predator crossbow nocks from Nockturnal which are half moon nocks are these the one's you are talking about. Shot them from my new Barnett Raptor seem ok so far! They have improved them with a metal housing built into them.
 
Everyone: I was a firm believer that Nockturnals were the way to go until today, I based my believe on the consistency of the Nockturnals my friends and I used for Vertical Bows, they were awesome and worked fine and repetetively. Well not the Nockturnlas for a Crossbow Arrow, my friend and I shot one this afternoon about six times to check arrow flight and accuracy. On the sixth shot the light came on momentarily and we didn't see it light again til it hit the target and it was very dim. The nock broke indicating the system is weak and should NOT be used , these were half moon nocks, however, I was a firm propenent of the Nockturnal system until today. Everyone using these or contemplating their use be aware they are not safe. See attached photos. Cactus
Everyone: I was a firm believer that Nockturnals were the way to go until today, I based my believe on the consistency of the Nockturnals my friends and I used for Vertical Bows, they were awesome and worked fine and repetetively. Well not the Nockturnlas for a Crossbow Arrow, my friend and I shot one this afternoon about six times to check arrow flight and accuracy. On the sixth shot the light came on momentarily and we didn't see it light again til it hit the target and it was very dim. The nock broke indicating the system is weak and should NOT be used , these were half moon nocks, however, I was a firm propenent of the Nockturnal system until today. Everyone using these or contemplating their use be aware they are not safe. See attached photos. Cactus
Having the same issue. One blew apart, and all I found was the light and battery. Second one flew out of the bolt on release, and I never found it. Shooting Carbon Express Hunters at 370 FPS. They were almost $50 for three.
 
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