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Venom X, The Real Deal

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#41 ·
Same here. I ordered mine this morning from Mainstreet. Was going to replace the RevX I just sold with a Siege RS425, but then decided I would save some money and try out the Venom X.
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
Just hit 500 shots with the Venom. Original strings and cables. Serving is about 50% life. Cables like new. Impressed to say the least.
Shot 10.4, 11.3, 11.7 and 9.2 GPI plain carbons out of her and shot everything extremely well. From 423 gr on the 9.2 to 480 gr on the 11.7 woven, the bow just shoots them all very well.

Tenpoint sure did hit a homerun with this bow. This is a great performing bow for a thousand bucks. I think they call that value!
FD
 
#44 ·
Farm Deer said:
Just hit 500 shots with the Venom. Original strings and cables. Serving is about 50% life. Cables like new. Impressed to say the least.
Shot 10.4, 11.3, 11.7 and 9.2 GPI plain carbons out of her and shot everything extremely well. From 423 gr on the 9.2 to 480 gr on the 11.7 woven, the bow just shoots them all very well.

Tenpoint sure did hit a homerun with this bow. This is a great performing bow for a thousand bucks. I think they call that value!
FD
Click to expand...
It sounded like people with serving wear issues on a few Venom Xs was from a tag on the cable serving and not a problem with the bow. So after 500 shots, cocking still working with no clicking or clacking? I shouldered one yesterday and it does fit nicely!
 
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Discussion starter · #47 ·
Around 600 shots I began to have some gritty feel come from the crank unit. Removed the side of the stock, cleaned a little debris from the large bushing, applied some silicone grease and back to a smooth operation. Took about 15-20 minutes. No complaints here, that's a lot of cranking. The bow just shoots like butter!
 
#48 ·
Farm Deer said:
Around 600 shots I began to have some gritty feel come from the crank unit. Removed the side of the stock, cleaned a little debris from the large bushing, applied some silicone grease and back to a smooth operation. Took about 15-20 minutes. No complaints here, that's a lot of cranking. The bow just shoots like butter!
Click to expand...
What was the "debris" you removed, happen to take any pics???
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
No Pics, just bushing material, like a powder. Measured bearing was concentric, no real wear.
Works like brand new again. Impressed it went this many cranking cycles before needing lube. Maybe I'll do pics next 600 shots!
 
#50 ·
Farm Deer said:
No Pics, just bushing material, like a powder. Measured bearing was concentric, no real wear.
Works like brand new again. Impressed it went this many cranking cycles before needing lube. Maybe I'll do pics next 600 shots!
Click to expand...
How difficult was it to access inside the stock into the crank ?
 
#51 ·
Farm Deer said:
Around 600 shots I began to have some gritty feel come from the crank unit. Removed the side of the stock, cleaned a little debris from the large bushing, applied some silicone grease and back to a smooth operation. Took about 15-20 minutes. No complaints here, that's a lot of cranking. The bow just shoots like butter!
Click to expand...
I'm feeling that same CCD grind after my western dusty hunt. Hmmm...... How difficult is it to do this? I'm so worn out from my Colorado hunt I have not taken either xbow out of my soft case.

Note: I started to experience the CCD gritty crank before going west.

How are the strings and cables holding up after 600 shots?
 
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Discussion starter · #53 ·
TomOnTheRun said:
Farm Deer, what type of silicone grease did you use. Trident?
Click to expand...
Here's a quick synopses:
  • Remove the three hex head screws from the bottom of the stock.
  • Remove the strap pin from the trigger. This releases the strap.
  • Slide off the stock.
  • Remove two torx/star screws from the right side of the stock along with all the hex head screws.
  • Separate the stock.
  • Top center torx/star screw retains the crank assembly in the stock while the other screws hold together the crank cases.
  • Once in your hand remove the remaining torx/start screws.
  • Remove the right side cover, one with the crank arm socket.
  • Clean the debris off the gear face with a Q-tip and wipe out the bushing with alcohol.
  • Apply a small amount of silicone grease inside the bushing and on the face of the gear. Doesn't really matter what type. Trident is fine.
  • Reassemble as you removed.
**** all screws are the same length for the stock and crank case so no numbering required.
**** be sure to apply some BLUE loc-tite to the three screws securing the stock to the barrel. All other screws are self locking.
 
#54 ·
Farm Deer said:
Here's a quick synopses:
  • Remove the three hex head screws from the bottom of the stock.
  • Remove the strap pin from the trigger. This releases the strap.
  • Slide off the stock.
  • Remove two torx/star screws from the right side of the stock along with all the hex head screws.
  • Separate the stock.
  • Top center torx/star screw retains the crank assembly in the stock while the other screws hold together the crank cases.
  • Once in your hand remove the remaining torx/start screws.
  • Remove the right side cover, one with the crank arm socket.
  • Clean the debris off the gear face with a Q-tip and wipe out the bushing with alcohol.
  • Apply a small amount of silicone grease inside the bushing and on the face of the gear. Doesn't really matter what type. Trident is fine.
  • Reassemble as you removed.
**** all screws are the same length for the stock and crank case so no numbering required.
**** be sure to apply some BLUE loc-tite to the three screws securing the stock to the barrel. All other screws are self locking.
Click to expand...
Great guide. Disclaimer, everyone do this at your own risk. When I get motivated I'll revisit this. Cut past into my Venom X MacBook Air notes!

Thank you.
 
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TomOnTheRun
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