[Rick maxwell]

Greetings:
These pictures I am enclosing are from a Ghost 410 riser. This is the same riser your crossbow has as there are several series that the riser and 12 1/2" limbs are identical and will inter change.
The material I used is two pieces of 3/16" x 1/4" key stock, cut 1/2" long, filed to fit. No beveling is required. The key stock can be purchased at an automotive store or possibly a hard ware store.

If you look at the pictures of the riser, you will see a ridge near the top above the riser bolt hole (one on each side). This is where the shims fit. Once filed to the proper size, I used a dab of Gorilla glue to hold them to the riser, then firmly tightened the riser bolt as one normally would.

View attachment 167738 View attachment 167740 View attachment 167742 View attachment 167744

Pictures from left to right:
First: view of installed shim.
Second: riser, showing the ridge.
Third: riser, showing the ridge at a different angle view.
Fourth: diagram showing the cut key stock with the measurements.

Your crossbow may require the same thickness (3/16") or a bit less. Even identical crossbow series can vary. Assemble everything before applying the glue and check for the bow string to rail-stock downward pressure. If done properly the bowstring should lightly touch to a credit card thickness clearance.

When completed: 1)the top of the shim is flush with the top of the rail-stock, 2)the end of the shim is flush with the arrow groove in the rail-stock.

All the best.

Thanks for the pictures
My only problem is that I’ve tried this type of shim but this Xbow needs 5/16 to 3/8 thick shims to get the string to where you are talking about
I shot it one time with the shims like you are showing only to have them pop out even with being gorilla glued in
Only difference in the shims were I made mine out of high impact polyurethane
Today the last day of our bow season I’m hoping to go to the bow shop next week an see if they discount any bows to make room for the new models for next year
I did remove the rail did some looking an measuring
I think I can move the top rail forward an machine some of the polyurethane pieces to take up the gap in the rear I will be trying this later on this year
I would like to thro a THANKS for all the information an advice given an will post the rest from moving the rail forward when I get it completed

 

[bunnyrabbit]

Using material thicker than the width of the ridge that I showed in the picture of the riser may be one of the reasons the shims pop out. My other thought, that area has to to squeaky clean with no trace of wax or lubricant as Gorilla Glue will not stick. A bit too much Gorilla Glue and it does not cure properly.

Swapping to thinner axle shims may raise the cams up a bit, bit one has to watch not to come too close to the upper "Y" section of the cable when cocking and shooting the crossbow. This is where I was limited when cam leveling my 2018 Barnett drop Tine STR. To allow for more clearance is remove a bit of the serving at the cam end (Y section) of the cable.
The narrower axle to axle crossbows have a steeper cable angle in that area.

Check the riser over well with a bright light, as Barnett's risers in those series (Ghost 410, Buck Commander BCXtreme 365 Ultra Lite etc.) have shown hair line cracks which can get worse. I have found these hair line cracks on the left hand inner (shooter side) that appear as a manufacture flaw in the coating or dipping. These crossbows all use the same riser which are inter changeable. The Carbonite risers tend to crack from the inside out, then explode. If the riser explodes, then sometimes good by to the cam and limbs. Carbonite risers will not stand vibration.

All my crossbows are set up in high quality rifle jigs and cocked with the crank cocking system so there was no way that I twisted the riser stirrup when cocking. Cocking on uneven ground resulting in different foot pressure on the stirrup, I could see this happening over time.

The riser design was one of my preferences due to the neat design instead of the jut out stirrup like the older crossbows originally came out with. If the riser was built out of aluminum or some other high quality product, that would be a huge improvement. If you look at say a 2018 Barnett Drop Tine STR, there is a gusset in each of the large holes near the limb pocket end of the riser which help strengthen the riser.

As for having to go with thicker shims as you mention to relieve the downward bow string pressure all I can suggest is: dismantle the crossbow and check that the limbs are properly seating in the limb pockets, the limb rockers are properly seated and the limbs fit the limb rockers properly. If going this far, lube the limb pockets and limb rockers (both sides) with Lithium grease as this prevents squeaking when cocking and shooting the crossbow.

Barnett's newer crossbows with that riser style: 1)the limbs have been shortened from 12 1/2" to 11" and 2)measuring across the top center of the limb rockers, this has been narrowed as well as 3)adding the mentioned gusset in the riser holes. Doing this narrowing and limb shortening has reduced the speed in feet per second that the Ghost 410 and Buck Commander BCXtreme 365 Ultra Lite could accomplish. For long range target shooting, one wants a fast crossbow due to flatter arrow trajectory.

Wishing you all the best with what ever you decide.

 

[Pak713]

I was just tearing down my xp 380 to level the picatinny rail and while re installing to see if the shim was enough this was lying on the back of the bow where the housing gets reinstalled. I didn’t notice where it came from.

 

[ko4nrbs]

GOOP may work better to keep the shims in. It's more elastic than Gorilla Glue and can be peeled off if you need to remove it. I used it to glue the rubber pads back the the Dissapator Bars on my Excalibur Exomax crossbow and it worked well. These rubber pads are the sting stops and take a tremendous beating not to mention very significant vibration.
Bill